Is this possible?? please help!!!

supraluver4life · 11-10-2009, 10:11 PM

so i just swapped out my blown r154 for a newer one that i picked up with another gauge cluster. the cluster is out of a 91 and i have an 87. i removed my cluster and put the new one in and double checked that everthing was connected. i fired up my car and nothin on the gauges work except for all the warning lights and such. none of the six gauges work (of coarse not the speedometer cause my cable is broken). I wanted to know if this is supposed to work or not.

any help would be great thank you

cre · 11-10-2009, 10:30 PM

The clusters are cross compatible. The only thing you'd ever have trouble with when swapping clusters is that the GE and GTE tachometers are different and require modification.

Have you replaced the 7.5A Dash fuse in the driver's side fuse box? Made sure all of the connectors in the back of the cluster are securely plugged in?

supraluver4life · 11-12-2009, 02:58 AM

i havent checked the fuse yet but could that really be the problem? and how can i tell the difference between a n/a cluster and a turbo cluster? the only differences between the two are there are more lines in between each indecated line and the redline is 250 rpms lower. but damn i forgot it has a boost gauge so its deffinately from a turbo model. do you know of anyway i can check to make sure the gauges in the cluster actually work?

oh btw thank you

cre · 11-12-2009, 06:27 AM

Yes, the one fuse could be the problem... that's why I suggested you check it...

Yup, the turbo has a boost gauge and the circuit for the tachometer is slightly different. If you were to use a N/A gauge in a turbo you'd need to either swap in a GTE tach or swap out some of the resistors in the GE tach.

The redline difference and the number of lines on the faces is a difference between the pre89 and 89 and newer models of MKIII. The 89 and newer had a heavier crank with more counterweights requiring a lower redline but promising greater longevity. The pre89 crank is lighter, hence the higher redline. The year of the car isn't a dead give away as to which crank is in your car though. The earlier, lightweight crank is the 6M and the heavier is the 7M... they've both been found in '88 and '89 vehicles, but that's the general time of the changeover.

supraluver4life · 11-13-2009, 01:17 AM

alright so the fuse isnt it because i put the other cluster in and it works just fine so what now??? that info about the crank is helpful

cre · 11-13-2009, 02:58 AM

Time to start tracing the circuit... something's most likely burned out or possibly torn. Also check the sockets where the plugs connect to make sure the soft circuit isn't folded and that the copper contacts are intact.

If it's the same type of cluster as your original (turbo and turbo or n/a and n/a) you could swap all the gauges over to the shell that's functioning properly (You can do it with a GE to GTE or vice versa but you have to cut a trace and add a jumper, IIRC). The only thing which may not have a connection on the back is the cruise control indicator LEDs, but there won't function in a pre89 anyway.

I've repaired the soft circuit on two of these in the past, it's not terrible but you have to take a lot of care to expose the traces without cutting through and then solder in a jumper without burning through.

11-10-2009, 10:11 PM	#1
supraluver4life 3" Exhaust Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Santa Fe, NM Posts: 135	Is this possible?? please help!!! so i just swapped out my blown r154 for a newer one that i picked up with another gauge cluster. the cluster is out of a 91 and i have an 87. i removed my cluster and put the new one in and double checked that everthing was connected. i fired up my car and nothin on the gauges work except for all the warning lights and such. none of the six gauges work (of coarse not the speedometer cause my cable is broken). I wanted to know if this is supposed to work or not. any help would be great thank you __________________ Cusco front, Tein Rear coilovers Massive DDP, 3'' custom catless exhaust, Tsudo muffler 4.5'' outlet, Apexi cold air intake, Act stage 3 clutch, ct26 turbo (stock)- 10psi +300rwhp "Not driving a car because its too nice, is like not fucking your gf so shes still tight for the next guy" Last edited by supraluver4life; 11-10-2009 at 10:16 PM.

11-12-2009, 02:58 AM	#3
supraluver4life 3" Exhaust Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Santa Fe, NM Posts: 135	i havent checked the fuse yet but could that really be the problem? and how can i tell the difference between a n/a cluster and a turbo cluster? the only differences between the two are there are more lines in between each indecated line and the redline is 250 rpms lower. but damn i forgot it has a boost gauge so its deffinately from a turbo model. do you know of anyway i can check to make sure the gauges in the cluster actually work? oh btw thank you __________________ Cusco front, Tein Rear coilovers Massive DDP, 3'' custom catless exhaust, Tsudo muffler 4.5'' outlet, Apexi cold air intake, Act stage 3 clutch, ct26 turbo (stock)- 10psi +300rwhp "Not driving a car because its too nice, is like not fucking your gf so shes still tight for the next guy"

11-13-2009, 01:17 AM	#5
supraluver4life 3" Exhaust Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Santa Fe, NM Posts: 135	alright so the fuse isnt it because i put the other cluster in and it works just fine so what now??? that info about the crank is helpful __________________ Cusco front, Tein Rear coilovers Massive DDP, 3'' custom catless exhaust, Tsudo muffler 4.5'' outlet, Apexi cold air intake, Act stage 3 clutch, ct26 turbo (stock)- 10psi +300rwhp "Not driving a car because its too nice, is like not fucking your gf so shes still tight for the next guy"

11-10-2009, 10:30 PM	#2
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	The clusters are cross compatible. The only thing you'd ever have trouble with when swapping clusters is that the GE and GTE tachometers are different and require modification. Have you replaced the 7.5A Dash fuse in the driver's side fuse box? Made sure all of the connectors in the back of the cluster are securely plugged in?

11-12-2009, 06:27 AM	#4
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Yes, the one fuse could be the problem... that's why I suggested you check it... Yup, the turbo has a boost gauge and the circuit for the tachometer is slightly different. If you were to use a N/A gauge in a turbo you'd need to either swap in a GTE tach or swap out some of the resistors in the GE tach. The redline difference and the number of lines on the faces is a difference between the pre89 and 89 and newer models of MKIII. The 89 and newer had a heavier crank with more counterweights requiring a lower redline but promising greater longevity. The pre89 crank is lighter, hence the higher redline. The year of the car isn't a dead give away as to which crank is in your car though. The earlier, lightweight crank is the 6M and the heavier is the 7M... they've both been found in '88 and '89 vehicles, but that's the general time of the changeover.

11-13-2009, 02:58 AM	#6
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Time to start tracing the circuit... something's most likely burned out or possibly torn. Also check the sockets where the plugs connect to make sure the soft circuit isn't folded and that the copper contacts are intact. If it's the same type of cluster as your original (turbo and turbo or n/a and n/a) you could swap all the gauges over to the shell that's functioning properly (You can do it with a GE to GTE or vice versa but you have to cut a trace and add a jumper, IIRC). The only thing which may not have a connection on the back is the cruise control indicator LEDs, but there won't function in a pre89 anyway. I've repaired the soft circuit on two of these in the past, it's not terrible but you have to take a lot of care to expose the traces without cutting through and then solder in a jumper without burning through.