1986 1st Supra Running Poorly

[dlfred]

Before I get started I just want to say THANK YOU to the many people who have posted help and input for others. I have spent the last 4 days becoming a fan of the search tool and you all have so much great info.
I just purchased my 1st Supra this week and I am thrilled to have something to go completely overboard on. I have reached my 47 years the hard way leaving behind a trail of broken bones, torn ligaments and nerve damage. I will miss motorcycles but plan on enjoying my Supra on the twisty roads of the North Georgia mountains. So anyway Thanks..great stuff.
I just bought a 1986 Supra HB 5 speed about 100 miles from the house. The seller says that the following work has been done after the car owner brings it to him apart. Seems like a honest guy running a small repair shop, he tells me he had to purchase a download manual to help him assemble the car since he wasn't familiar with the car. This is what he did; Head Gasket replaced, cylinder head received a valve job,head resurfaced, brake master cylinder, plugs and wires. The car has sat for a couple years then sat again for 6 months after the repair.
Starts up easy and does a cold start high idle of about 2300 and only drops to about 1300 rpm at warm idle. Wack the throttle and the idle will drop to about 1000 rpm and then very slowly climbs back up. Taking off from a start it doesn't seem to pull very hard, while accelerating if you roll back off the gas a little it seems to clean out a little and pull smoother. If you stay in it at about 4800 rpm it starts to pull a little harder and more smoothly. It doesn't smoke or knock at all.
I included some pictures from under the hood, please feel free to ridicule and abuse but in return offer a fix for me. The distributor seems a little jacked to one side of the adjustment range. I am thinking that I hear a vacuum leak and although it looked like it was sealing OK the duct tape intake repair may be some of the problem.
I appreciate any thoughts or suggestions. I can't figure out exactly where the parts that were left hanging go. There is a green one wire plug hanging there that I don't know if it should be hooked up. The code it's spitting out is 52, have not tested the Knock Sensor yet. The cruise doesn't work and the fuse is good.
Thanks for your help.
Dave

[dlfred]

Oh yeah,
Where do you recommend to but OE parts? I need things like the Intake boot and chrome trim and probable a knock sensor orlike part. If you have any suggestions like a OEM seller or a OEM type aftermarket company. I do have a few salvage yards pretty close by.

Thanks

[MA70-3.0GT]

First off welcome and i hope you find the forum as much use as i have. I cant see the pics as im on mobile atm but if you suspect the intake may be leaking post AFM that would cause high idle and iffy power so thats first on your list. Before you buy parts though check the pas idle up valve connection under the intake pipe, its 1/2" approx rubber hose leading from the intake to a round valve on top of the pas pump then from that to the steel vac pipe that runs across the front of the motor under the water pump. If that and the intake pipe checks out and you still hear a vac leak the tsrm has great diagrams of all vac hose routing, maybe someone on a pc could post a link?
Failing all that the idle control valve could be sticking, although that would usually cause more distinct issues. I'm tired and my phones being funny so am gona post quick an if i think of anythin else il get back.

[dlfred]

Thanks for the post that is some stuff I didn't even think of, Thank you. I may have to get some more details I will check it out. Sounds like you are going to be sleeping soon but the Supercross is coming on TV at 7:30 est. I will be in the "Supra Web Search" mode for the next 3.5 hours while watching. So a Honda 500 Custom, those CX motors are tough, cool.

[dlfred]

Just to save someone some time I have scored the diagrams mentioned. Awesome stuff that online manual, allot I pulled from the search option.

[btwilson86]

Looks like you may not need a knock sensor, that green one wire connector is your knock sensor wire. IIRC, it should plug in to a fairly large knock sensor a little closer to the front than half way down the block on the intake side of the engine.

[Green7mgte]

Originally Posted by dlfred

the duct tape intake repair may be some of the problem.

if it don't work, duck it.

welcome to the bored.

[dlfred]

Thanks BTWilson I was hoping someone would tell me where that went. Would there be any reason someone selling the car would disconnect it? It could be he couldn't see where it plugged up once he put most of that area together.

Can anyone tell me what he may have done in order for it to run without the knock sensor hooked up? Would this explain the low power as well?

And to Green7mgte, Thanks for the welcome.

[dlfred]

Found a brass nipple with a red o-ring on the side of the block below the intake manifold. Because of the current routing of the wire it looks like I will have to remove the manifold in order to reach the sensor. Any hints or tips on this. It might be a good idea for me to recheck this repair anyway. What do you all think, what would you do?

Thanks

[MA70-3.0GT]

Thats the ks with the red seal. It was probably forgotten when the mani was refitted, i'd pull the thing and reconnect (drain the coolant as it runs thru the mani, also fit new mani gasket for the same reason).

Oh by the way, the cx is a eurosport (ec)! It just soldiers on, all ive done is oil, tyres, cables etc.
Oh and one time the temp gauge was running in the red for 2 weeks or so, i thought it was the gauge regulator which is a common thing, except when i opened the rad to change antifreeze it was dry! (never found the cause, no leaks) So yeah they are tough motors with a capital T!