Not Passing emission's :-(

SDK · 03-23-2010, 06:18 PM

Hey Guys and Gals, First I should say that I have a 1991 Toyota Cressida with the 7MGE motor and since I really can't find Cressida forums I come here for your help. I just recently had to do a head gasket on the motor and am trying to get it to pass emission since it hasn't for about 3 years now. (not running for about 1 of those years.)
It seems to run great, but I can't seem to pass. it is way to high when idle and running with the test. I have swapped plugs wires cap and rotor, and i should say that it is clocked 10 degrees. Could this make it run high emissions? Have any of you run into this? What is the correct clocking on this motor? Should it be running at Zero? Could a coolant temp sensor cause this? idea's free things to try i'm down for this all. Let me know, thanks guys!!!!

Shane

cre · 03-24-2010, 01:19 AM

Without knowing where it's failing you're not going to get anything but guesses....

Proper ignition advance timing is 10 degrees BTDC. Did you set this with the diagnostic jumper in place?

Yes, a bad coolant sensor can cause issues.

Have you checked for error codes? (See the first sticky in the MKIII FAQ)

Any mods to the car?

Is the air filter clean?

SDK · 03-24-2010, 04:13 AM

OK so in response to the above post,

There is no MODS done to the car at all, plan Jane.

what the car failed for
this is before new wires cap and rotor.
Cruise
HC / CO

150 / 1 Limit
286 / 7.12 Actual

Idle

220 / 1.2 Limit
303 / 4.09 Actual

After cap rotor and wires

Cruise
HC / CO

150 / 1 Limit
274 / 6.55 Actual

Idle

220 / 1.2 Limit
305 / 1 Actual

The air filter hasn't been changed and is dirty but would it screw it up that much? ^^^. If so then I'm a monkey's uncle.

I used a timing light to set the 10 degree on the crank pulley. what is this with a jumper business? so i have done it this way? and how?

there is no engine lights on, so i wouldn't think to check it. (i will ready sticky above).

Shane

SDK · 03-24-2010, 04:44 AM

Just a couple questions about the temp sensor. Have have a massive gobble of aluminum with like 2 sensors on it. 2 look the same one has green connector one has a white, are they the same? Maybe on is the sending sensor or what not. could this screw up my econ so much that it wouldn't pass? what is the ohm reading and how do I test it?

Shane

cre · 03-25-2010, 12:36 AM

I don't have time right now to cover every aspect of this. There aren't many engine error codes which cause the check engine light to stay on... check for codes FIRST and stop guessing at things.

You'll find info on the ECU temp sensor in the contents on this page: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar....aspx?S=FI&P=1

When setting the ignition advance you have to set the diagnostic jumper (same one you set to check error codes) while adjusting the timing and the car must be at normal operating temp. (jumper TE and E1)

SDK · 03-25-2010, 04:20 AM

Why does the diagnostic jumper need to be in when setting the timing? Tried it still is the same.

Also that book referred to doesn't say much about the temp sensor. It shows that the temp sensor is the side one with green connector. If i do have a bad temp sensor would it screw up the fuel air mixture to the point of failing.

Checked codes and nothing kicks it, just keeps flashing and never stops.

Shane

P.S

Thanks for the help.

03-23-2010, 06:18 PM	#1
SDK Stock Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Seattle Posts: 16	Not Passing emission's :-( Hey Guys and Gals, First I should say that I have a 1991 Toyota Cressida with the 7MGE motor and since I really can't find Cressida forums I come here for your help. I just recently had to do a head gasket on the motor and am trying to get it to pass emission since it hasn't for about 3 years now. (not running for about 1 of those years.) It seems to run great, but I can't seem to pass. it is way to high when idle and running with the test. I have swapped plugs wires cap and rotor, and i should say that it is clocked 10 degrees. Could this make it run high emissions? Have any of you run into this? What is the correct clocking on this motor? Should it be running at Zero? Could a coolant temp sensor cause this? idea's free things to try i'm down for this all. Let me know, thanks guys!!!! Shane

03-24-2010, 01:19 AM	#2
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Without knowing where it's failing you're not going to get anything but guesses.... Proper ignition advance timing is 10 degrees BTDC. Did you set this with the diagnostic jumper in place? Yes, a bad coolant sensor can cause issues. Have you checked for error codes? (See the first sticky in the MKIII FAQ) Any mods to the car? Is the air filter clean? __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

03-24-2010, 04:13 AM	#3
SDK Stock Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Seattle Posts: 16	OK so in response to the above post, There is no MODS done to the car at all, plan Jane. what the car failed for this is before new wires cap and rotor. Cruise HC / CO 150 / 1 Limit 286 / 7.12 Actual Idle 220 / 1.2 Limit 303 / 4.09 Actual After cap rotor and wires Cruise HC / CO 150 / 1 Limit 274 / 6.55 Actual Idle 220 / 1.2 Limit 305 / 1 Actual The air filter hasn't been changed and is dirty but would it screw it up that much? ^^^. If so then I'm a monkey's uncle. I used a timing light to set the 10 degree on the crank pulley. what is this with a jumper business? so i have done it this way? and how? there is no engine lights on, so i wouldn't think to check it. (i will ready sticky above). Shane Last edited by SDK; 03-24-2010 at 04:16 AM.

03-25-2010, 12:36 AM	#5
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	I don't have time right now to cover every aspect of this. There aren't many engine error codes which cause the check engine light to stay on... check for codes FIRST and stop guessing at things. You'll find info on the ECU temp sensor in the contents on this page: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar....aspx?S=FI&P=1 When setting the ignition advance you have to set the diagnostic jumper (same one you set to check error codes) while adjusting the timing and the car must be at normal operating temp. (jumper TE and E1) __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

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03-24-2010, 04:44 AM	#4
SDK Stock Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Seattle Posts: 16	Just a couple questions about the temp sensor. Have have a massive gobble of aluminum with like 2 sensors on it. 2 look the same one has green connector one has a white, are they the same? Maybe on is the sending sensor or what not. could this screw up my econ so much that it wouldn't pass? what is the ohm reading and how do I test it? Shane

03-25-2010, 04:20 AM	#6
SDK Stock Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Seattle Posts: 16	Why does the diagnostic jumper need to be in when setting the timing? Tried it still is the same. Also that book referred to doesn't say much about the temp sensor. It shows that the temp sensor is the side one with green connector. If i do have a bad temp sensor would it screw up the fuel air mixture to the point of failing. Checked codes and nothing kicks it, just keeps flashing and never stops. Shane P.S Thanks for the help.