MKIII supra won't start
 

I have an 88 MK3 (non turbo) supra. It ran perfectly good untill i ran out of fuel.

I pushed the car to the side of the road and got me a can of fuel, but i can't get the damn thing to start anymore. I checked the fuell punt/return line and fuel is getting to the engine. I haven't gotten around to checking if the sparkplugs are sparking (somewhat hard on my own)

i'm checking the ignition system as soon as i can but anyone have any other ideas where the problem could be?

so you're getting fuel back through the return line as well? Just a thought but if you have no access to a fuel pressure gauge (think 30psi is correct if you do) then just as a precaution change the fuel filter in case it's drawn up the crud from the tank bottom & clogged resulting in low pressure.

You could also use the tsrm diagnostic function to check for fault codes and this would be the simplest & most sensible start really-: your new best friend:)


pull the codes, if any & find what they mean. If you have no joy there then the fuel filter would be next on my list if it just happened after running dry. Best of luck, let us know either way.:bigthumb:

i'm getting fuel back tru the return line (allthough i can hear air passing aswell. Unfortunatly the car is parked near my gf's parents and i've only got basic tools to my disposal.

Error code reads 12 (no N or G signal....)

I'l try the fuel filter first if i can manage to get the damn thing off

thanks in advance anyway, i'l let you know how it goes

No sparks at all, i'l check the different parts tomorrow but the distributor, cables and rotor are brand new

Well, 12 is most likely the distributor or the wiring... I'm thinking you weren't as completely out of gas as you think and the dizzy is what killed the car.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTi...ror_codes.aspx

i'm starting to suspect that aswell, i assumed at first something broke due to the fuel pump not sucking up any fuel anymore.

my next suspect is the cam position sensor (unfortunatly that means the complete distributor and thats a bit expensive)

I would also do a resistance check on coil as well just to be sure:bigthumb:

resistance between + and - gives 0.5 (where it should be between 0.24-0,30)

i think i'm going to replace it either way, and hope that solves the problem

Cool, hopefully that fixes it, and I believe thats cheaper than a dizzy

original one costs 219? and its in backorder, so i used a "universal" one and still no go

i'm lost and getting annoyed, but i'm not giving up untill its running again!!!