could somebody help me find some stuff? - Page 2

907mge · 05-02-2010, 03:26 AM

Yes I would have to agree after looking at it with the head off you can really see how little space it does take up. And you really can't get rid of the main channel to the intake anyway.

jdmsoup · 05-02-2010, 04:20 AM

yeah if it wouldnt have already been gone i probably wouldnt care because it does have advantages like cooler temps. but since its already gone and stuff them im not gonna worry about it. but im going to try to find a jdm ecu like you said and install it because im sure it will help with the whole egr system being deleted. thanks for your help man youre a genuis with these cars.

907mge · 05-02-2010, 04:37 AM

As far as deleting the evap canister, I wouldn’t. There isn’t much benefit to getting rid of it other than space. It takes the gases from the gas tank and vents them into the intake. And as with the a/c, all you would have to do is take off the belt that runs it. I’d wait til it gets hot to decide if you really want to get rid of it. I’m sure when the clutch is not engaged it really isn’t stealing any power away.

cre · 05-02-2010, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdmsoup

thanks for your help man youre a genuis with these cars.

Nah, I just know a lot of people who are and I listen well... and I'm pretty good at research.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 907mge

As far as deleting the evap canister, I wouldn’t. There isn’t much benefit to getting rid of it other than space. It takes the gases from the gas tank and vents them into the intake. And as with the a/c, all you would have to do is take off the belt that runs it. I’d wait til it gets hot to decide if you really want to get rid of it. I’m sure when the clutch is not engaged it really isn’t stealing any power away.

This one I researched myself. The evap canister saves a LOT of gas, especially in hot environments on a vehicle which sees a lot of movement (think gallons). The best solution to clear this out of the engine bay is to pick up a smaller unit (like the one from a Toyota Tercel

) and mount it inside the fender.

The main reason people delete the A/C isn't because of the amount of power lost at the pulley (you're right, that's minimal); it's the amount of weight the whole system adds... In my opinion it's better to build for another 5RWHP and keep it... you'll be happier on those toasty days and you won't eliminate half your potential buyers should you decide to sell it down the road.

jdmsoup · 05-02-2010, 04:58 PM

haha and again the a/c pump was already gone when i bought it too he was just too lazy to take the hoses and things off haha but i mean i never realy had a car with a/c in it so im used to it im just used to riding with the windows down but the good thing is now i can just go with that targa top off haha. but i will definitely look for the tercel canister and mount it out inside the fender because it would probably be easier than removing all of those ling and what not. im just trying to clena up all of that stuff in the engine bay becuase mk3s have alot of clutter in the engine bay and its hard to work on something when everything is in your way haha and im trying to make it have a cleaner look and trying to clean up what he messed up.

jdmsoup · 05-02-2010, 05:29 PM

oh and i have another question im fixing the headgasket problem like every other 7m owner has to eventually and i was wondering im putting just a stock normal headgasket on and ive been looking for the right torque specifications to torque the head back down to but i cant seem to find one normal answer under all of these other answers. i know that toyota didnt give out the right specificatiosn and didnt do it right but i need to know the right ones ive heard that 72 is the right torque specification but im not sure can you tell me fi this is right or wrong and do you know of a thread or anything of where i can find all of the specifications of everythign i need to know about this. thanks

jdmsoup · 05-02-2010, 05:37 PM

sorry to keep posting but i keep forgetting all of the stuff i want to ask. haha this will be my first headgasket job on a supra and i want to make sure it all goes perfect and i dont mess this up because i only have enough money for this one time and i was wondering if anybody knew somethign that had somewhat of a step by step thing or something that gave me tips for the job or anything any help would be super appreciated guys

907mge · 05-02-2010, 09:38 PM

I just did my hg and its a pain the first time. I think I could do it in about half the time now. You should follow the tsrm except for the torque spec on the head bolts. I just went with the arp head studs to be safe. The spec for them is 90ftlbs. And remember to clean out the threads in the block well before reassembling. This site will have all the info you need.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/

jdmsoup · 05-03-2010, 12:21 AM

alright man thanks. thats going to help me tons. i was going to get somebody else to do it but im been pretty successful in everything else ive ever did like rebuild a motor and things so im sure i can tackle this its jsut that this is my daily driver and my personal money and i dont have alot because so ive heard mk3 owners are always broke haha which ive learned is very true haha so thanks for the help

907mge · 05-03-2010, 01:34 AM

And remember it is always recommmended if you use a mhg to have both surfaces(block and head) machined flat and smooth.

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05-02-2010, 03:26 AM	#11
907mge 20psi boost Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Harrisburg Posts: 759	Yes I would have to agree after looking at it with the head off you can really see how little space it does take up. And you really can't get rid of the main channel to the intake anyway.

05-02-2010, 04:20 AM	#12
jdmsoup 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: upstate south carolina Posts: 70	yeah if it wouldnt have already been gone i probably wouldnt care because it does have advantages like cooler temps. but since its already gone and stuff them im not gonna worry about it. but im going to try to find a jdm ecu like you said and install it because im sure it will help with the whole egr system being deleted. thanks for your help man youre a genuis with these cars.

05-02-2010, 04:37 AM	#13
907mge 20psi boost Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Harrisburg Posts: 759	As far as deleting the evap canister, I wouldn’t. There isn’t much benefit to getting rid of it other than space. It takes the gases from the gas tank and vents them into the intake. And as with the a/c, all you would have to do is take off the belt that runs it. I’d wait til it gets hot to decide if you really want to get rid of it. I’m sure when the clutch is not engaged it really isn’t stealing any power away.

05-02-2010, 04:58 PM	#15
jdmsoup 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: upstate south carolina Posts: 70	haha and again the a/c pump was already gone when i bought it too he was just too lazy to take the hoses and things off haha but i mean i never realy had a car with a/c in it so im used to it im just used to riding with the windows down but the good thing is now i can just go with that targa top off haha. but i will definitely look for the tercel canister and mount it out inside the fender because it would probably be easier than removing all of those ling and what not. im just trying to clena up all of that stuff in the engine bay becuase mk3s have alot of clutter in the engine bay and its hard to work on something when everything is in your way haha and im trying to make it have a cleaner look and trying to clean up what he messed up.

05-02-2010, 05:29 PM	#16
jdmsoup 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: upstate south carolina Posts: 70	oh and i have another question im fixing the headgasket problem like every other 7m owner has to eventually and i was wondering im putting just a stock normal headgasket on and ive been looking for the right torque specifications to torque the head back down to but i cant seem to find one normal answer under all of these other answers. i know that toyota didnt give out the right specificatiosn and didnt do it right but i need to know the right ones ive heard that 72 is the right torque specification but im not sure can you tell me fi this is right or wrong and do you know of a thread or anything of where i can find all of the specifications of everythign i need to know about this. thanks

05-02-2010, 05:37 PM	#17
jdmsoup 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: upstate south carolina Posts: 70	sorry to keep posting but i keep forgetting all of the stuff i want to ask. haha this will be my first headgasket job on a supra and i want to make sure it all goes perfect and i dont mess this up because i only have enough money for this one time and i was wondering if anybody knew somethign that had somewhat of a step by step thing or something that gave me tips for the job or anything any help would be super appreciated guys

05-02-2010, 09:38 PM	#18
907mge 20psi boost Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Harrisburg Posts: 759	I just did my hg and its a pain the first time. I think I could do it in about half the time now. You should follow the tsrm except for the torque spec on the head bolts. I just went with the arp head studs to be safe. The spec for them is 90ftlbs. And remember to clean out the threads in the block well before reassembling. This site will have all the info you need. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/

05-03-2010, 12:21 AM	#19
jdmsoup 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: upstate south carolina Posts: 70	alright man thanks. thats going to help me tons. i was going to get somebody else to do it but im been pretty successful in everything else ive ever did like rebuild a motor and things so im sure i can tackle this its jsut that this is my daily driver and my personal money and i dont have alot because so ive heard mk3 owners are always broke haha which ive learned is very true haha so thanks for the help

05-03-2010, 01:34 AM	#20
907mge 20psi boost Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Harrisburg Posts: 759	And remember it is always recommmended if you use a mhg to have both surfaces(block and head) machined flat and smooth.