Turbo Supra 1968 Engine/transmission removal

[professorbob]

Thanks guys for the advice. And Thanks for great friends. I needed to get the car from my garage to James Conner's house for the removal. Mike Kesler and Kesler's Body Shop loaned me his roll back to move the car. Boy 'I gotta get me one of deeees'...
James has a quanzit hut garage with four arm lift. His brother had it built the garage and it had more tools than six guys could use. It was an easy delivery and we had the car up on the lift in not time.
I had an hour or so, so I began removing the splash pans and draining fluids.
The trans fluid was quite dark and had a burned smell. The radiator fluid looked very green and new. The Oil was very black.

The car has been sitting for 3 years since it last ran, so I plan on draining the gas from the fuel tank as well.

While up on the rack, I will probably change the chunk dope too.

I was pleasantly surprised how clean and new everything looks. There were only two things that concern me.

When I removed the lower inner-cooler hose there was some thick oil that ran out. about two table spoons full. Not sure where that came from.
Any suggestions?

The exhaust system is in excellent shape and I need to remove it to get to the Trans bolts and brackets. I sprayed some PB Blaster up on the three header nuts but could not get them to budge using a pull bar with a pipe.

Question: are these studs in the waste gate or are they bolts and nuts. What are the chances of ringing them off, and if I do what is the repair process?
I resprayed with Pb Blaster to soak over night, and hopefully I can get them to release on day two.

Question: Do I need to take the transmission cooler line loose at front and rear, or can I do an adequate job of cleaning the cooler from the rear? What is the best technique for making sure that all the debris is remove from both the external transmission cooler and the one in the radiator.

Well still doing the research. Next will be lowering the car to get at all the parts on top of the engine.
Suggestions?

[professorbob]

Is there anything I need to note before I start the radiator and shroud removal.
Also, Should I try and drop the whole exhaust system from the header back to the rear muffler or should I separate it at the catalytic converter.

I suspect that it is better to remove the nuts at the differential and take down the pilot bearing to remove the drive shaft as one unit. Right?

[supraflymkiii]

yes unbolt the driveshaft from the diff. then take out the two bolts holding up the center section, then just slide it right out. Drain your fluid first though.

[professorbob]

Day 2 was about five days ago, so I will try an remember my observations with several questions to follow.

We lifted the car and I removed the dirt pans and various hoses to the cooler and radiator. .
The hoses were pretty strait forward for removal from the top. The electrical disconnects were very difficult to operate, ass the has such small latches. Can see how it would make the install easier, but hard to manage with such tight short wire connections.

The under engine is quite clean considering the 1987 age and 116,000 miles. No leaks except from the Power Steering reservoir hose. I will probably have a new one constructed, unless I can locate a cheep replacement part.

Broken parts thus far.... So easy with old plastic stuff. Radiator upper ear. I will need to epoxy it back on. The windshield washer plastic hose connections. Looking for a replacement.
While trying to get the air cleaner plenum off it cracked at the turbo charger intake.
Anyone know where I can get a replacement, preferably OEM Old New Stock for a reasonable price?

I have the fan and shroud, the radiator, the water pump fan, the alternator, and the belts removed.
Trying to determine what hose under the intake will need to come off.

I removed the Power steering hoses and let it drain.

I also need to know about the the Transmission cooling lines. Can I disconnect them from the transmission and leave in the vehicle, or are they attached to the engine.

Any suggestions of how to get the three down pipe nuts off the exhaust port on the turbocharger. The have really rusted. I have been soaking them in oil, hoping to be able to get them off. Are these studs in the exhaust flange, or are they bolts dropping through holes in the flange.

Torque Converter, any source for a replacement converter at a fair price.
When the transmission fails, it it customary to replace the converter as part of the rebuilding process?

What should I be looking for in my transmission builder for this A340E unit?

On the engine pull, what about the pipes and tubes below the intake manifold. Can they be left in place an just take out the bottom bolts in each engine mount and lift it out as a unit?

More questions later. Thanks
Prof

[supraflymkiii]

Are you talking about the accordion hose which is rubber and connects to the turbo or the hard plastic which holds the air filter and bolts to the afm? If you're talking about the accordion hose you can get one brand new on driftmotion.com for a pretty fair price otherwise watch the FS threads for a good shape one.

The tranny cooler lines are bolted to the engine in 3 different places iirc. If you're pulling the engine too I would just leave them attached and disconnect them at the tranny and pull the whole engine and tranny as one with the lines still attached just be careful that you don't bend them.

As for the exhaust nuts, they are studs with nuts on them. I doubt they'll break off, if anything you might just pull the whole stud out of the elbow. If they do break then you get to have a ton of fun with a drill and get some cobalt drill bits and drill them out big enough so you can retap them stock size if you can.

You should be able to reuse the torque convertor they usually don't go bad that often.

To get the engine out you will have to atleast take off the upper intake plenum. so you can just leave all those metal lines under there just make sure you get the fuel lines disconnected and all the connectors under there. The starter wires are usually kind of a bitch but with some patience and good hands you can get it.

[professorbob]

Originally Posted by supraflymkiii

Oh yeah for the exhaust manifold stud nuts, they'll either come right off the stud or the whole stud and nut will come out. You should be ok.

Long POST hope you can help!

We were able to get the complete unit out together, but had to saw the header pipe just where it turned toward the back. Could not move the there nuts on the header. Will probably cut the nuts off and replace with new so if the exhaust requires work later, we may be able to get it off.
Is there a high temp anti-seeze you can recommend on these bolts.

Because the car has been garaged, it is in surprisingly good condition.
Only some of the short hoses and those exposed to heat will require replacing.

I have removed every thing on the exhaust side. Except the water inlet components.

I have a call into the previous owner as the timing belt looks new, to see if he had it changed. I am hoping to avoid having the extra expense and trouble of installing a replacement.

There was an oil leak in the power steering tank or hoses, and a mess on the engine block. Have cleaned all the components. Will be cleaning oil residue on the block next.

QUESTION: 1. During the exhaust manifold removal, only one nut came off the stud. The remaining studs screwed out of the head. Three of these turned out some aluminum threads.

I will be replacing the studs with new of course. Where is the best price on replacement studs?

What is the best repair solution. The bottom of the holes have threads. Will it require installing a heli-coils, or can the studs be reinstalled with epoxy i.e. jb weld. What is the torque spec on the manifold bolts?

Would you recommend anti-seeze on the studs where they go into the aluminum head?

2. Should I have the manifold machined, or will just a good wire brushing and cleaning do. What should I use on the aluminum head exhaust surface to clean it. Scotts brite on a wheel? What is the best exhaust manifold gasket? The best four hole gasket for mating the turbo to the header.

3. The intake from the blower has oil residue in all the tubes. Is there a seal that can be replaced to stop this leak. Where would I get a seal and are there any directions for the job.


4. I plan on running a compression check. Should I check the head bolt torque, or will this lead to problems. What should the head bolt torque be? And what is the bolt tightening sequence. The vehicle has 116,000 on the odometer.

5. During removal of the intake plenum with all the small hoses, I broke out some of the rubber where it meets the cross over pipe.
Are there any used new replacements available, at a reasonable price?

Well That's enough now. I will have photos soon.
Really excited bout seeing this beast run again.

[supraflymkiii]

no offense but i'm getting sick of answering questions that are answered numerous times on supra forums. Do some research. I would recommend joining supramania.com or supraforums.com too. From what i've seen most of the people on this site are dumbasses.

[professorbob]

Thanks for the assist you offered. I will be going else where to get assistance. However, if you see future post by me, just please ignore them . Thanks