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-   -   Stripped Jumped Timing Belt (http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/mkiii-supra/16947-stripped-jumped-timing-belt.html)

batmmannn 05-20-2010 01:19 AM

Stripped Jumped Timing Belt
 
2 Attachment(s)
Thanks to all you fine fellas for all your Help. After days of trouble shooting I have found my problem with the Red Supra. The only reason I am posting this is because so many said they had never heard of a timing belt jumping on one of these cars, well here one is! Just thought you would like to see it.

Things aren't lining up as they should between the cams and the pulley mark and the stripped belt is the reason why. It appears to be the original belt cause it is stamped Toyota in white. Teeth are missing and the belt is cracking badly. Check it out guys and gals! I'll have this old girl going in a couple of days now.... I hope....lol

jdmsoup 05-20-2010 01:37 AM

that definitely doesnt look good man. glad you got it figured out.

turbonicsperformance 05-20-2010 02:16 AM

yep looks like that would be your problem though this isnt really "jumping timing" this is more of a failed timing belt let us know how it works out for you after you get it going

batmmannn 05-20-2010 07:51 AM

Yep, Thanks
 
Yes this belt explains a lot. I suspected it from the beginning and had started there, but then I read that this motor does not jump time and then I opened the oil cap and saw that the lobes were turning so I figured it was OK. Last thing I ended up checking other than distributor problems was this....go figure! The missing teeth would explain why it occasionally sounded like a car with no plugs in it when I would try to start it as in too fast a starter rev from the starter on the motor. The cams verses the crank were assuming all kinds of new positions. Lucky for me this is a non interference engine or I would have been screwed. Looking at my other vehicles now for timing belt replacements!!! Taking the Plenum off tomorrow as well and replacing the plugs under it and installing my first helicoil. I got a light now at the end of the tunnel.

a400tool 05-20-2010 03:06 PM

Looks like that belt should have been replaced a long time ago. My dad had not driven his Supra in quite a while. When I got the car, that was one of the first items I replaced.

907mge 05-20-2010 04:43 PM

Well off comes the crank pully. It looks like your supra will keep you busy for a while at this rate. Personally with as many problem as you are having I would just rebuild that motor. Don't you have a possible donor supra?

batmmannn 05-21-2010 01:59 AM

POP THAT PULLEY Harmonic Blancer Bolt Removal
 
5 Attachment(s)
Hello everyone. I thought I would post this because I saw one or two members advising to remove the starter and edge a piece of wood in the flywheel gears to hold the engine while you break the Harmonic Balancer Bolt or as I call it the crank pulley bolt.

Since so many people new to mechanics come here I thought I would film this technique since I was doing it in my driveway!

I uploaded it to you tube so check it out if you are wanting to POP THAT PULLEY!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGrC7a6SV3k

Toyota Supra lower Pulley bolt removal using the starter of your car. Pull the coil wire before doing this so your car won't start. Make sure you have the car in park for automatics or neutral for sticks! Make sure your breaker bar with socket is a six sided socket and the bar is long enough to be wedged onto the ground because your engine will push against the breaking bar loosening the bolt for you. The ground holds the bar for you while the engine breaks the grip of the bolt.

Sure beats the hell out of removing the starter and wedging wood into flywheel!

I went 45 minutes and back to the Toyota dealer today and they sold me the wrong crank seal. They claim the car has two down there, everyone else only lists one. I see no place where a second crank seal or timing cover seal is there or otherwise! ARGHHHHH!!! If I could get the parts I could do the damn job!~ I didn't want a timkin or whatever they are called from auto zone those seals are junk. They ordered me a Felpro seal with timing cover and water pump gaskets for damn near the same price! GRRRRRRR! I am getting very little done here when I should be done and driving it! GRRRRRR!!!

Still No timing belt from Auto Zone but the gave me a timing belt gasket set with crank seal for free for the inconvenience and threw in a tube of high temp RTV! Ended up raining the next two days anyway.

SUCCESS ON THE HELICOIL
: GOT that in and tight and knock sunk! So that is not a worry anymore. I was very nervous doing that. I used grease on the tap to trap as much metal as possible, vacuumed the cylinder out with a small hose taped into the end of my shop vac and carefully cleaned any Vaseline residue with chips from the hole and surroundings. I will blow it out with air and then finally turn the car over with the plug out to blow any final residue in there out!

I wish someone would have told me I had to remove the cam to change a valve spring or seals. What is the procedure for on the head torquing once you remove one cam? Loosen them all and then on reassembly torque it all down with new head bolts? Tomorrow are valve cover gaskets timing belt, crank seal and reassembly. My black car needs a new valve spring I think. Maybe I will have it started by tomorrow evening. If that damn timing belt comes in! Here are some more pics.

nailhead432 05-25-2010 03:26 AM

Unbolting the cams
 
Do you have the specs and torque sequence available to you to install the cams? Its not wise to just unbolt them in any order. Just use the reverse proceedure to remove the cams as you would to install them. Clear as mud? Basically, loosen the outer most caps first, alternating back and forth. And don't just unscrew the bolts all the way, do it in stages throughout the entire process. This would be similar to unbolting the head. This is the "proper" way to do it, and the theory is that by doing this, the cam will lift up evenly against the cam journals and prevent gouging.
Now personally, I've used a 3/8" impact gun and just hit each bolt (still going back and forth from one end to the other) and have never had a problem. Then again, I'm willing to suffer the consequences if something were to happen (only on my car though, never a customer's). Takes less than 10 seconds and I'll have the cam laying on my tool box (in a clean, safe place).
I didn't get a chance to look at your tool that you posted a hyperlink up to inorder to replace the valve springs, but I will tell you that Snapon wants $150 for it (made in China, @#%#@, but thats another story), so $85 doesn't sound too bad if it will do the job. I think the valve springs from Toyota list for like $5 or $6 each, not bad if you only need one or two.
My Supra happens to have a lot of blow-by and really isn't worth fixing (that engine), but I might still pull it apart for the hell of it just to see what caused it to break. Might also be noteworthy to get your hands on a boreascope and make sure that the piston or the valve has not suffered too badly with the broken spring.
Good luck on that one, keep everyone posted on your adventure. I'm sure the pics are helping out a lot of ppl that are reading your threads, keep it up.

907mge 05-25-2010 03:45 AM

Follow the TSRM and review the diagrams on the link they will tell you what you need. If you want to be driving for it for a while and not till the next brake down you need to start working on all the following:

water pump(its right there)
plugs
wires
dist. cap and rotor
all those hoses(coolant and vaccuum,big and little)
reseal oil plugs
new valve cover gaskets
change the oil and coolant


You may have already done some of these but they are just suggestions.

batmmannn 05-25-2010 04:07 AM

Reassembly Now
 
2 Attachment(s)
Thanks Nailhead. What do you use to hold the cam shaft. I see they use a special tool in the book but I guess any thing that will hold that wheel will work.

Somehow I either lost my ac belt tension pulley or its put aside somewhere. Can pull from the other car if it does not turn up right away. Wondering if it was missing from the car but I think I remember pulling it. Not sure.

Anyway, Auto Zone finally came through with my timing belt. Had the timing cover bay ready and clean when it came.

Used some fine sand paper and tapping on the gaskets with a hammer to clean the gasket material off the plenum. Found my finger nails useful to pic off some of the harder gasket in the tighter areas. Though I now have the dirtiest nastiest fingernails in the East...lol

I am putting her back together now. I did some cleaning but will try to steam power wash the motor at some later point. What are your thoughts on that?

New plug wires to route, the plenum to put back on, radiator....etc and then she should be running. I was careful to sand the ground location on the block before reattaching it. The timing belt as you well know is hard to stretch on, my trick was to hook the drivers side cam sprocket one tooth tighter and then pull it toward the drivers side with a wrench getting the belt as tight as possible and then pulling as hard as you can working the belt over the passenger cam sprocket. It is a bear but that worked for me. I didn't have to pry with a large screwdriver or do anything that would have compromised the new belt. It helped when I took the large bolt out of the idler pulley. I attached the spring and then checked the tension to be even from both spans on the belt and then torqued down the idler pulley bolt.

Not too concerned about the AC right now till I see how well it does. Thought seriously about pulling the compressor for new seals but thought twice about it because I would have to tape closed the lines. Made better sense to wait, pull the one on my Black Supra and rework that, then put it on the 5 speed. Then after that do it again for the Black Auto Supra. I am sure it must be bad after 7 years of sitting.

So tomorrow I will see if I can get her fired up. Not much left to do. Could use a good set of tires though. One tire cracked after driving and went flat so maybe the others will as well. I have fog lights to buy, Speakers are all blown, drivers auto lock switch is broke or jammed. Over head lights don't work but all in good time.

The tires on the Black Supra look better so I might be borrowing those as well. Less tread but No cracking as of yet. Fog Lights were taken from the Red one for the Black one years ago. Guess they are coming back home to the Red one.

New valve cover gaskets are on, front seal is in, Timing belt is on and adjusted at top dead center alignment. Just a matter of hooking it all back up now.

Hopefully I will have a runner soon! Here are 2 new pics.... Scott


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