Grinding?

[Jay633]

okay so when im at high rpms and i shift to next gear it grinds, or if i down shift it wont let it go into gear unless its at 3k rpm but will still grind. what possibly can it be?? Also Many times when i put it in reverse it grinds, suggestions?? thanks 88 toyota targa turbo supra

[FRISBEE]

clutch is going out.

[supra.7mgte]

clutch or the syncros in teh tranny a f'ed

[Bru]

Make sure the clutch is adjusted properly (freeplay) and no air in the system. I recently rebuilt my master cylinder because it was leaking into the passenger compartment. Not much shifting improvement until I replaced the slave cylinder with a new one and adjusted the pedal freeplay properly. Here is a link to a eBay dealer that sells these and other Supra parts.

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/eastpart...911.m270.l1313

I used a one-man ball check type bleeder kit. About 4-5 pedal pumps between above normal reservoir refills or it will draw more air into the system. I could pump the pedal with my right arm and watch for bubbles in the clear hose under the car. I could also check the clutch fork movement with my left hand with the inspection cover off after bleeding. That is also a good time to grease the clutch fork contact points. It pulls right out in a turbo car, especially with the slave cylinder off. If you are going to replace the slave cylinder, soak the flare nut in penetrating fluid. I use a cotton ball or a small wad of paper towel to apply it and wait a while. A 10mm flarenut wrench is best or a very tight fitting 10mm open end. Those flare nuts round over easily.

[wstanek]

Im going to go with the synchros because if the clutch is "soft" then wouldent you feel a slight pull when you finally get it in gear with the clutch pedal to the floor and revs would drop a very slight amount because it is partially engaged.

[wstanek]

Originally Posted by Bru

Make sure the clutch is adjusted properly (freeplay) and no air in the system. I recently rebuilt my master cylinder because it was leaking into the passenger compartment. Not much shifting improvement until I replaced the slave cylinder with a new one and adjusted the pedal freeplay properly. Here is a link to a eBay dealer that sells these and other Supra parts.

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/eastpart...911.m270.l1313

I used a one-man ball check type bleeder kit. About 4-5 pedal pumps between above normal reservoir refills or it will draw more air into the system. I could pump the pedal with my right arm and watch for bubbles in the clear hose under the car. I could also check the clutch fork movement with my left hand with the inspection cover off after bleeding. That is also a good time to grease the clutch fork contact points. It pulls right out in a turbo car, especially with the slave cylinder off. If you are going to replace the slave cylinder, soak the flare nut in penetrating fluid. I use a cotton ball or a small wad of paper towel to apply it and wait a while. A 10mm flarenut wrench is best or a very tight fitting 10mm open end. Those flare nuts round over easily.

if your going to use somthing to get a flare nut off i used honey goo works like a charm and ive never had 1 stick its like goo after you spray it on. itll stay there till you wipe it off and its waterproof so if it rains the day after you put it on or just after you put it on it will still be there when you come back to it!

[Bru]

Originally Posted by wstanek

Im going to go with the synchros because if the clutch is "soft" then wouldent you feel a slight pull when you finally get it in gear with the clutch pedal to the floor and revs would drop a very slight amount because it is partially engaged.

I could be a combination of both, wearing out synchros and an out of adjustment clutch.
The easiest and cheapest approach would be to check and verify the clutch setting and get the most out of it possible first. Also check the plastic cap at the end of the shifter and the condition of the grommet under the shifting ball pivot point. The thread starter said
reverse was grinding. Reverse does not have a synchro. That indicated that the input shaft is turning either due to a not fully disengaged clutch or possibly a warped clutch disk.

[wstanek]

Originally Posted by Bru

I could be a combination of both, wearing out synchros and an out of adjustment clutch.
The easiest and cheapest approach would be to check and verify the clutch setting and get the most out of it possible first. Also check the plastic cap at the end of the shifter and the condition of the grommet under the shifting ball pivot point. The thread starter said
reverse was grinding. Reverse does not have a synchro. That indicated that the input shaft is turning either due to a not fully disengaged clutch or possibly a warped clutch disk.

go with his idea first and yeah could be a combination of both. but i also thought he meant mostly grinds in reverse.