Cruise Control

batmmannn · 06-10-2010, 05:33 AM

I did a search and didn't turn up anything relevent on Cruise Control problems.

I have everything on my car working now except the cruise control and the drivers door lock switch.
The cruise control switch on the dash lights up when pressed but when I try to set it on the steering wheel it just does nothing.

Are there any common failures known about these units? I am posting this a bit premature I suppose cause I have not even checked the fuse if there is one but since the switch lights up I am thinking the fuse is probably OK.

Thanks, Scott

btwilson86 · 06-10-2010, 06:43 AM

The cruise control itself is vacuum operated. There should be a vacuum line(after the throttle plate) that connects the speed control actuator and I believe the heater control valve vacuum lines together. Make sure that vacuum line is there and in good shape. The other common failure point is the rubber boot for the speed control actuator cable will deteriorate, causing it to not move properly/not have enough tension in the cable.

batmmannn · 06-10-2010, 07:57 AM

If it is where I think it is yes my rubber boot is loose. It is supposed to be inserted or simply hug there cause when I looked at it it seemed to be broken away from the unit but was not certain that this is the case. Is this the rubber boot for the speed control actuator? Please review this pic I took. My vacume lines look OK. If this is the problem where or how do I repair it and where can I find the parts I need....? Thanks

btwilson86 · 06-10-2010, 05:45 PM

Yep, that's the piece. With that broken, you probably won't be able to keep the tension on that cable. I've heard of people taping them for a quick fix, cuz IF you can find one they're usually not very cheap.

Note: I had one with a broken boot once and my cruise still worked, it was just a little rough when accelerating. So that piece may not be your only problem.

batmmannn · 06-10-2010, 06:13 PM

I was doing some reading and I read that it could be the switch on the clutch or brake that disengages the CC. Also I read that if you drive while resting your foot on the clutch that could keep it deactivated as well. Read that switching rear tires could confuse it. Seems like a lot of ifs there.
I will try it again. Others say it just starts working again or is intermittent. My cables seem OK, will check the fuse today and try it again. Seems like JB weld might be good to reattach that boot. Thanks

UPDATE

Well go figure! I just took it to the local General Store and it works! I made sure I kept my foot off the the clutch and got it above 25mph, tried it and it worked perfectly. I have no idea for sure why! I guess this thing just is coming back to life, I have some creeking in my front end I am looking to see if this has grease certs to lubricate the front end. Thanks for your help.

cre · 06-11-2010, 01:35 AM

The cruise control isn't operable at speeds below 30MPH, IIRC.

with the broken stop to the sheath/housing the cruise should still operate fine... just a bit roughly as BT mentioned. If the sheath were slit lengthwise it'd be another story.

The cruise system is far from simple in modern cars. For future reference, things to start with are: CC throttle cable, speedo cable, speed sensor signal, vacuum leaks or improper routing, bad clutch switch, brake switch and brake fluid level.

batmmannn · 06-11-2010, 02:36 AM

AHHHHH! I had just filled my brake reservoir yesterday or so. Maybe that is why it did not work before.
HEY
My Car just found another gear!!!

I took my right front brakes apart and sprayed the caliper down with PB Blaster. My right caliper was sticking and dragging the right front wheel. The car gained a boost of power after I did this. So far they are releasing OK. Gotta Love Blaster!

Thanks for the tips guys, as I learn more I will answer more posts... My car is really doing OK, I just put a new radiator cap on with a pressure valve.

I think my old cap was releasing too soon allowing radiator fluid to overflow the tank. We will see.... I am losing coolant fluid somewhere..... I hope it stops now.

The car is getting significantly faster, is it possible the rings are seating better and my compression is going up?

Thanks, Scott

Mike87 · 08-04-2010, 04:50 PM

I hope posting correct section, first time user. Hi all, I have an 87 supra, 127k, auto, cc light not working, nor any other part of cruise. Any suggestions? Thanks!

batmmannn · 08-07-2010, 04:15 AM

Start with your fuses then do a google search there is lots of info on the internet. Mine stopped working again but no time to fool with it right now.

MA70-3.0GT · 08-07-2010, 10:47 AM

OK sorta unrelated but still cruise related, my JDM import (digital dash) model has had a convertor fitted (to comply with UK SVA regulations for imports, which requires an MPH speedo) to change the Km/h readout to mph & because of that my cruise doesn't work till about 40mph as the car "thinks" it's still only doing 40Km/h (25mph)...

Just something to consider if you drive a JDM car with a speedo convertor...

06-10-2010, 05:33 AM	#1
batmmannn 12psi boost Join Date: May 2010 Location: West Virginia Posts: 320	Cruise Control I did a search and didn't turn up anything relevent on Cruise Control problems. I have everything on my car working now except the cruise control and the drivers door lock switch. The cruise control switch on the dash lights up when pressed but when I try to set it on the steering wheel it just does nothing. Are there any common failures known about these units? I am posting this a bit premature I suppose cause I have not even checked the fuse if there is one but since the switch lights up I am thinking the fuse is probably OK. Thanks, Scott __________________ 1987 N/A 7MGE Left Hand Drive MK3 Red 5 Speed and Black Auto Supras My Next project is the Batmobile!

06-10-2010, 06:43 AM	#2
btwilson86 Super Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: Billings, Montana Posts: 1,034	The cruise control itself is vacuum operated. There should be a vacuum line(after the throttle plate) that connects the speed control actuator and I believe the heater control valve vacuum lines together. Make sure that vacuum line is there and in good shape. The other common failure point is the rubber boot for the speed control actuator cable will deteriorate, causing it to not move properly/not have enough tension in the cable. __________________ 1989 7MGTE R154 Targa Top White Package w/Blue Interior Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels

06-10-2010, 07:57 AM	#3
batmmannn 12psi boost Join Date: May 2010 Location: West Virginia Posts: 320	Rubber Boot If it is where I think it is yes my rubber boot is loose. It is supposed to be inserted or simply hug there cause when I looked at it it seemed to be broken away from the unit but was not certain that this is the case. Is this the rubber boot for the speed control actuator? Please review this pic I took. My vacume lines look OK. If this is the problem where or how do I repair it and where can I find the parts I need....? Thanks Attached Thumbnails __________________ 1987 N/A 7MGE Left Hand Drive MK3 Red 5 Speed and Black Auto Supras My Next project is the Batmobile! Last edited by batmmannn; 06-10-2010 at 08:07 AM.

06-10-2010, 05:45 PM	#4
btwilson86 Super Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: Billings, Montana Posts: 1,034	Yep, that's the piece. With that broken, you probably won't be able to keep the tension on that cable. I've heard of people taping them for a quick fix, cuz IF you can find one they're usually not very cheap. Note: I had one with a broken boot once and my cruise still worked, it was just a little rough when accelerating. So that piece may not be your only problem. __________________ 1989 7MGTE R154 Targa Top White Package w/Blue Interior Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels

06-10-2010, 06:13 PM	#5
batmmannn 12psi boost Join Date: May 2010 Location: West Virginia Posts: 320	Cruise COntrol I was doing some reading and I read that it could be the switch on the clutch or brake that disengages the CC. Also I read that if you drive while resting your foot on the clutch that could keep it deactivated as well. Read that switching rear tires could confuse it. Seems like a lot of ifs there. I will try it again. Others say it just starts working again or is intermittent. My cables seem OK, will check the fuse today and try it again. Seems like JB weld might be good to reattach that boot. Thanks UPDATE Well go figure! I just took it to the local General Store and it works! I made sure I kept my foot off the the clutch and got it above 25mph, tried it and it worked perfectly. I have no idea for sure why! I guess this thing just is coming back to life, I have some creeking in my front end I am looking to see if this has grease certs to lubricate the front end. Thanks for your help. __________________ 1987 N/A 7MGE Left Hand Drive MK3 Red 5 Speed and Black Auto Supras My Next project is the Batmobile! Last edited by batmmannn; 06-10-2010 at 07:30 PM.

06-11-2010, 01:35 AM	#6
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	The cruise control isn't operable at speeds below 30MPH, IIRC. with the broken stop to the sheath/housing the cruise should still operate fine... just a bit roughly as BT mentioned. If the sheath were slit lengthwise it'd be another story. The cruise system is far from simple in modern cars. For future reference, things to start with are: CC throttle cable, speedo cable, speed sensor signal, vacuum leaks or improper routing, bad clutch switch, brake switch and brake fluid level. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

06-11-2010, 02:36 AM	#7
batmmannn 12psi boost Join Date: May 2010 Location: West Virginia Posts: 320	Thanks Guys AHHHHH! I had just filled my brake reservoir yesterday or so. Maybe that is why it did not work before. HEY My Car just found another gear!!! I took my right front brakes apart and sprayed the caliper down with PB Blaster. My right caliper was sticking and dragging the right front wheel. The car gained a boost of power after I did this. So far they are releasing OK. Gotta Love Blaster! Thanks for the tips guys, as I learn more I will answer more posts... My car is really doing OK, I just put a new radiator cap on with a pressure valve. I think my old cap was releasing too soon allowing radiator fluid to overflow the tank. We will see.... I am losing coolant fluid somewhere..... I hope it stops now. The car is getting significantly faster, is it possible the rings are seating better and my compression is going up? Thanks, Scott __________________ 1987 N/A 7MGE Left Hand Drive MK3 Red 5 Speed and Black Auto Supras My Next project is the Batmobile! Last edited by batmmannn; 06-11-2010 at 02:57 AM.

08-04-2010, 04:50 PM	#8
Mike87 Stock Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: SC Posts: 11	Cc switch, light not coming on I hope posting correct section, first time user. Hi all, I have an 87 supra, 127k, auto, cc light not working, nor any other part of cruise. Any suggestions? Thanks!

08-07-2010, 04:15 AM	#9
batmmannn 12psi boost Join Date: May 2010 Location: West Virginia Posts: 320	Cc Start with your fuses then do a google search there is lots of info on the internet. Mine stopped working again but no time to fool with it right now. __________________ 1987 N/A 7MGE Left Hand Drive MK3 Red 5 Speed and Black Auto Supras My Next project is the Batmobile!

08-07-2010, 10:47 AM	#10
MA70-3.0GT 12psi boost Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Crewe, England Posts: 356	OK sorta unrelated but still cruise related, my JDM import (digital dash) model has had a convertor fitted (to comply with UK SVA regulations for imports, which requires an MPH speedo) to change the Km/h readout to mph & because of that my cruise doesn't work till about 40mph as the car "thinks" it's still only doing 40Km/h (25mph)... Just something to consider if you drive a JDM car with a speedo convertor... __________________ '89 MA70 Supra GT aero 3.0turbo JDM, Rebuilt motor, K&N intake, 3" stainless turbo-back. New turbo and braided line kit... '89 Honda NC27 400, NC23 cams, open pipe, PC36a shock & possibly Showa USD forks... '83 Yamaha 29R XJ750E-II, number 69 off the line, only runner in the country? Original except Koni shocks '95 Honda PC26 CB500R, Winter hack, hateful, trying to sell it I'm not paranoid, they really ARE after me!!!

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