Oil loss in my red 7m na
 

OK Guys I have no oil leaks in the front or top of the motor, no dripping, no evidence of leaks in those areas. I have to assume that I am blowing out of the rear main now. Or possibly the drain plug will look at it tomorrow.

Found my car with over 3 quarts low, after noticing the oil pressure guage was dropping to nothing. Only get some blue smoke after back pressure builds down a long hill and then a nice puff barely visible at the end of the hill on take off.

That would be kind of expensive as I am looking at 4 quarts loss at about 500 miles of driving. This stuff aint cheap.

Overheated today using the AC and not knowing I was low on oil and not fully burping the car after the radiator hose replacement and AC repair.

Looks like I will be watching the oil closely now till I decide where I am losing it. I suspect I will have to drop the trans and replace the main seal.
Get a new drain plug and gasket. Might as well throw a new clutch plate in there as well when I do it.

Can the trans be dropped easily or is it better just to pull the motor with trans attached?

AC IS WORKING AWESOME! My first AC Repair and recharge and I guess I got it right. Can the motor be pulled without opening the compressor lines? I would think it could but imagine it would be tight.

Oil pressure went back above 20 at 2,000 rmp after refill.
Comments would be appreciated. Thanks

Oil out the exhaust = internal leak, not external... Bad rings, turbo seals, BHG, cracked head, valve stem seals, etc.

burping your rad is a great idea don't get me wrong.. but its not going to sufficiently ruin anything in a matter of moments if there is an air bubble or two trapped in there.. and they will eventually make their way out anyhow.

im gunna have to go with the rings valve steam seals or somthing of that nature.... didnt u just rebuild that motor? mabey im thinking of somone else... u posted a video on youtube right?????

No rebuild
 

No I did the valve covers, front crank seal, timing belt. No internal rebuild. I am not blowing blue smoke except after a long coast down a 1 mile hill with it in gear and only for an instant after during take off. I don't have a Turbo or a blown head gasket that test was already done. Drove it to town last night after burping it with the AC on high about 16 miles and it did not overheat after burping. Losing oil from the rear crank seal I think. Probably do need new valve seals though. No pools or drips of oil on my driveway but the rear trans has oil all over it. The plugs would show oil fouling if I was burning a lot of oil correct?

yeah true if it was burnin oil you would have a lot of shit on the plugs. how much dose it burn again. im in alganquin park on holidays =D

Oil Loss
 

No blue smoke exept maybe a bit at times runs great, not sure how much oil I am burning, or if I am losing it out the rear main seal. I was 3 quarts low as I said. I will hit the tripometer and see how many miles I get before I lose a quart. Bout all I can do short of dropping the trans. Been reading seems like a real pain in the ass to drop the oil pan, perhaps I am leaking there. Not sure what the deal is. I have a real wet trans though. Probably the rear seal or oil pan gasket maybe the drain plug. Gonna go to town soon. Will look for drips under the car.

Last time I had alot of oil on my tranny I was from leaking oil from my valve covers/3rd cylinder head cover. It found it's way down the back of the engine and onto the bellhousing, causing some nice long streaks of oil down the length of the transmission from driving the car.

It seems to me that if you're leaking a substantial amount of oil from your pan gasket or drain plug, which 3 qts is definitely substantial, you would definitely see the oil on the ground.

The rear main seal is a possibility, have you had a slipping clutch? Many rear main seal leaks allow oil to get on the clutch, causing it to slip

i would probably inspect the #3 valve cover gasket. but if that was the case he would defiantly see pooling in the galley.

and if your burping your car every 5 minutes.. were are you sucking all this air into from? perhaps you have a cracked rad.

valve stems usually present their problems at start up.. "usually"

100 degrees
 

Just took it to town it's like 100 degrees out. I used the AC checked the oil while in town it was still full. Pulled out of parking lot went back and inspected where car was while I was in the store, no drips that I saw.

Car got a little hot on the way back shut off the AC till I got back on open road and used the AC on high all the way home with no overheat. I had replaced my lower radiator hose. That is how I got air back in it again. Not sure it is uncommon for a car to overheat in 100 degree heat with high humidity when using the AC on full HIGH.

I am letting it cool down now will pop the radiator and burp and fill it again.

Are any of you able to run AC on high through town driving for over an hour without overheating? Just curious. Its so Hot outside the car is having trouble cooling the cab even though my AC is very cold.

My center vents won't blow air. I think I heard that said before what causes the center vents over the radio not to pass any air? the outside ones left and right blow fine. No blue smoke, the inside of my exhaust cannon appears to be a brownish burnt dust tan instead of heavily black and sooty like you would expect if I was burning oil.

I resealed my oil plugs and replaced my valve cover gaskets back when I did all the work, they appear not to be leaking,
The front crank seal when removed was rotted and cracking I would fully expect it likely that the rear main seal might be doing the same. The clutch does not slip but however it has felt strange a few times like it didn't return back up to the height it should.

Then there is the outside chance that someone drained my car of fluid to mess me up, but that is pretty far fetched, then again my ex did slice all my tires once.....


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