7mgte has no power won't go past 2000rpms HELO
 

Hey everyone i have a 1988 toyota supra 7mgte 5 speed, in nutral or holding the clutch the car will rev as far as it can but in first gear it wont go past 2000rpms whats wrong with it? if anyone can help thank you so much

hmmm, without more info im going to say fuel cut off or, vacuum leak.
the turbo charger system is obviously pressurized and over time leaks may develop.

so what happens @ 2krpm? does it have 0 power or what?? just that:

"in first gear it wont go past 2000rpms whats wrong with it?"
not the most descriptive...

at 2k it will just stay there it wont go more then 2k rpms and the car seems to sound like it back fires

Did you do any work on the car before this happened? Did this suddenly occur, or has it been slowly getting to this point? How long have you owned the Supra? What kind of mods do you have on it?

iv owend the car for about 2 weeks,the person i bought it from said they did the timing belt and head gasket,i did the coil pack and valve cover gasket,only mods are a air filter and exhaust,
the car has been like that since i bought it

if a timing belt was done, i would assume something is wrong with the timing.
get a timing light from a friend or buy one and check the timing.
either way you should check over everything about the car.
you may find out more than you could have imagined.

the timing is fine iv check it already

when in doubt...
CHECK FOR ERROR CODES!
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=FI&P=23
follow the instructions.

Problem is i need to replace the bulb:( but thos instructions help thanks i should be doing this tomrrow thanks

lol at least bulbs are cheap. and its about time, because you should always have operational engine lights

Is the parking brake released? Will the car roll from a stop on a slight hill? Jack up each wheel and try to turn them. The back will be harder in neutral. Checking for a seized caliper or parking brake.

i beleave i found the problem! but im not 100% sure..my knock sensor is broken and need to buy a new one could this be the problem?

I had a shorted knock sensor cable (there are two). The engine light came on but it ran normally.
If you are going to replace a knock sensor (broke off the plastic stalk), get one used from the parts yard, eBay, Craig's list, ect. I believe a 1 1/8" or a 1 1/4" socket fits it. Make sure its not a short in the wiring harness if your knock sensor is undamaged. I ruined 2 taking the starter off different times. Turned out
it was the main fuel pump relay. The engine would not crank when it was hot after stopping and sitting.

well mine is completly broken off but my car runs normal to untill boost kicks in which i heard was ether knock sensor or boost leak..which i have a broken knock sensor maybe a boost leak but none from what i sparyed and heard

ya it rolls even on a slight hill

did you check the engine codes?

a seized caliper has nothing to do with rpms.
i had a caliper seize on me last year and it was only because my system needed to be bled, even still i could drive it while it was seized just after 5 mins of driving it would heat up the brake system and totally stop all movement of the car...

A bad knock signal to the ECU (bad knock sensor or bad wiring) will cause the ECU to operate in what is commonly referred to as "limp mode"... if the faulty signal is interpreted to be beyond a certain threshold... otherwise, the ECU may just pull timing and add fuel causing poor mileage and lack of power but not to a crippling degree.

Fix the knock sensor... it's a MAJOR problem. If you have issues after that post up the details.

Oh, and replace the damned check engine bulb; You're wasting everyone's timing otherwise. The answer could have been right there in front of you (could still be if you have any other issues on top of the broken knock sensor).