Car wont turn over after swap!

[CanadianBak'inSupra]

Originally Posted by Travis89Turbo

Fix your fuel leak before going any farther.. safety first.

thats why i have a fire extinguisher!

[btwilson86]

Engine not turning over means that the starter is not turning the engine. If it turns over but doesn't run, then it's not firing.

Your ecu will not affect the engine from turning over.

If it's not turning over, check your connections on the battery. Make sure they're tight. Make sure there is no corrosion present. Make sure the connections at your starter are tight.

If the above checks out, do this:

Originally Posted by Travis89Turbo

Pull the little wire from your starter and have someone turn the key and check for voltage.

Also check that you have 12 volts DC at the large starter lug (where the big wire connects) at all times, regardless of key position.

If the switch leg (little wire) has no voltage with the key in the "Start" position, then double check the neutral safety switch bypass you did. I can't remember if these cars have a starter relay, if they do check that. Also may want to make sure your ignition switch is working, as well as the ignition fuse (once again, don't remember if these have that).

If there is no 12V DC at the main lug, you have a break in the wire or a bad connection. Check the entire wire for soft or hard spots.

[916MKIIIx2]

FYI, you pull the EFI fuse so your car wont be spitting fuel into the cylinders while doing voltage and amps checks on the starter, pulling the EFI fuse will in no way hinder you from making sure your "starter" is working, go to google and type in starter AMP test, and starter voltage test to see what you need to do. "I AM IN NO WAY SAYING THE EFI FUSE IS BAD" Just pull it before you do cranking tests.

[depami]

The alarm system can also disable the starter.

[Conga1991]

Okay so I fixed the fuel leak, just had to loosen the union bolt and tighten back on. I pulled the efi fuse so the cylinders dont flood. I checked voltage in the starter and there is power getting to the amp since it would go up to 400 then start at 0 and work its way up again. so im not sure what the problem could be for that. There's also alot of corosion in the wires so ill replace them anyways for future.

Also it never made a clicking noise, the clicking noise I was originally talking about came from the ecu area.

How can I check to see if the problem could be the alarm?

[btwilson86]

Which connection at the starter has no power, the little wire or the big one? If it's the big one, the only culprits can be a bad connection or bad wire. If it's the little one, the alarm is a possibility.

If the alarm is cutting out the starter, I believe you unlock the passenger door a couple of times with the key to disable it.

[Conga1991]

I unlocked and locked the passenger side and tried starting it and still nothing, but now the fuel leak is back so im gonna use some white plumber tape on the union. and im gonna replace the large wire from the battery to the starter hoping thats the problem.

So if the wires to the starter (large battery and small ecu plug) arent the problems, then the only thing causing the starter not to start is the ignition wiring?

[depami]

Originally Posted by Conga1991

I unlocked and locked the passenger side and tried starting it and still nothing, but now the fuel leak is back so im gonna use some white plumber tape on the union. and im gonna replace the large wire from the battery to the starter hoping thats the problem.

So if the wires to the starter (large battery and small ecu plug) arent the problems, then the only thing causing the starter not to start is the ignition wiring?

If the fuel line fittings are taper thread, then the teflon tape will work. But, if the fuel fittings are flared tubing or a banjo bolt, the tape will do nothing.

As to the alarm, try unlocking on drivers door, passenger door, and hatch. IIRC, I had this happen once and it did matter which lock disarmed it?

You could remove the starter and do a bench test: Connect battery "-" to the frame and battery "+" to the large stud and see if it runs. Then you know if the starter works or not. If it runs, then the problem is either in your power connections to the starter, or, in the control circuit. The control circuit gets a little more complicated, hopefully you have a manual and/or wiring diagrams?

I don't recall that you stated the year of your car, but, I have manuals on 86.5 and could post diagrams if that would help.

Hope some of this helps.

Good luck!

Denny

[Conga1991]

My car is a 88, its in the start of the thread but the motor and ecu with harness is from a 87. I will check the hatch key lock to see if that works and if not I bought new battery cables to see if that works. I hope it works cuz I dont want to mess with the ignition wiring or circuit board.

[Travis89Turbo]

Originally Posted by Conga1991

My car is a 88, its in the start of the thread but the motor and ecu with harness is from a 87. I will check the hatch key lock to see if that works and if not I bought new battery cables to see if that works. I hope it works cuz I dont want to mess with the ignition wiring or circuit board.

Look man check the signal wire to the starter before going any further. It will tell u in about 3 minutes if your starter is gettin the signal to start. Do this before replacing or pulling anything... why must everyone start with the hardest things first. Why pull the starter when u can check it bolted right where its at.... if ur getting the signal and have a solid 12v to the big wire then its your starter.. if ur not then its something on the ignition side of things weither its the alarm locking it out or wiring or power issue. But check the signal wire first always.. its just as important as the main batt cable.