Car wont turn over after swap!

[depami]

The alarm system can also disable the starter.

[Conga1991]

Okay so I fixed the fuel leak, just had to loosen the union bolt and tighten back on. I pulled the efi fuse so the cylinders dont flood. I checked voltage in the starter and there is power getting to the amp since it would go up to 400 then start at 0 and work its way up again. so im not sure what the problem could be for that. There's also alot of corosion in the wires so ill replace them anyways for future.

Also it never made a clicking noise, the clicking noise I was originally talking about came from the ecu area.

How can I check to see if the problem could be the alarm?

[btwilson86]

Which connection at the starter has no power, the little wire or the big one? If it's the big one, the only culprits can be a bad connection or bad wire. If it's the little one, the alarm is a possibility.

If the alarm is cutting out the starter, I believe you unlock the passenger door a couple of times with the key to disable it.

[Conga1991]

I unlocked and locked the passenger side and tried starting it and still nothing, but now the fuel leak is back so im gonna use some white plumber tape on the union. and im gonna replace the large wire from the battery to the starter hoping thats the problem.

So if the wires to the starter (large battery and small ecu plug) arent the problems, then the only thing causing the starter not to start is the ignition wiring?

[depami]

Originally Posted by Conga1991

I unlocked and locked the passenger side and tried starting it and still nothing, but now the fuel leak is back so im gonna use some white plumber tape on the union. and im gonna replace the large wire from the battery to the starter hoping thats the problem.

So if the wires to the starter (large battery and small ecu plug) arent the problems, then the only thing causing the starter not to start is the ignition wiring?

If the fuel line fittings are taper thread, then the teflon tape will work. But, if the fuel fittings are flared tubing or a banjo bolt, the tape will do nothing.

As to the alarm, try unlocking on drivers door, passenger door, and hatch. IIRC, I had this happen once and it did matter which lock disarmed it?

You could remove the starter and do a bench test: Connect battery "-" to the frame and battery "+" to the large stud and see if it runs. Then you know if the starter works or not. If it runs, then the problem is either in your power connections to the starter, or, in the control circuit. The control circuit gets a little more complicated, hopefully you have a manual and/or wiring diagrams?

I don't recall that you stated the year of your car, but, I have manuals on 86.5 and could post diagrams if that would help.

Hope some of this helps.

Good luck!

Denny

[Conga1991]

My car is a 88, its in the start of the thread but the motor and ecu with harness is from a 87. I will check the hatch key lock to see if that works and if not I bought new battery cables to see if that works. I hope it works cuz I dont want to mess with the ignition wiring or circuit board.

[Travis89Turbo]

Originally Posted by Conga1991

My car is a 88, its in the start of the thread but the motor and ecu with harness is from a 87. I will check the hatch key lock to see if that works and if not I bought new battery cables to see if that works. I hope it works cuz I dont want to mess with the ignition wiring or circuit board.

Look man check the signal wire to the starter before going any further. It will tell u in about 3 minutes if your starter is gettin the signal to start. Do this before replacing or pulling anything... why must everyone start with the hardest things first. Why pull the starter when u can check it bolted right where its at.... if ur getting the signal and have a solid 12v to the big wire then its your starter.. if ur not then its something on the ignition side of things weither its the alarm locking it out or wiring or power issue. But check the signal wire first always.. its just as important as the main batt cable.