7mge hp increase info

[907mge]

The problem is that people see extras under the hood and instantly think there is a power gain from losing them . The egr is good and does not hurt performance and the canister allows for the buning of fumes from the gas tank that would just be vented into the air. And neither weighs much, so weight reduction is not a benefit.

[El_supracabra]

i am currently in the process of upgrading/rebuilding my 7MGE. I really wanted to keep some of that *area under the curve* power that you have with a Naturally aspirated engine. Some things that I did to improve the power on mine were small improvements. It took A LOT of elbow grease to do the p&p and gasket match. but I used a die grinder w some 60 grit flapwheels. (about 1" in diameter you can get them from NAPA autoparts) then i used a drill (with a 6" boring bar ext) and some 300 grit sandpaper (glued to the flapwheels) but i p&p'd the INTAKE MANIFOLD and the both sides of the CYLINDER HEAD. then i used some 800 grit by hand to finish. If you have the money you can just pay a performance shop to do it. You are not supposed to polish AFTER the injectors, so leave that section Rough to aid in fuel atomization. you will DEFINITELY want to completely disassemble the head before doing ANY sanding or cutting. THEN have it jet washed at a machine shop before reassembling. I would also recommend a 3 angle valve job while it is all tore down.

If you dont want to go through all that. i would def recommend having the head milled about .020" or more (but I wouldnt feel comfortable going over .040") just to increase the compression ratio. Also going w a thinner stronger gasket such as a cometic or hks stainless steel mls will raise compression (hp) and will last much longer than the graphite stock one. If you go with a SS hg then you def need to run ARP studs or at least New bolts.

Also another small improvement you can do is replace the old 23lb flywheel (if of course you have a standard) with a new lightweight flywheel. i went with a chrome-moly 12lb. That will free up some of the rotational mass that is "loading" the motor during acceleration. Good luck!

LONG LIVE NA POWER!! lol

[CanadianBak'inSupra]

i vote sticky or FAQ!!!!!

[907mge]

All I can say about porting and polishing is that it is very intensive. I gave up after a few hours and had the guy at the machine shop do it since he has much more experience. I'm not trying to scare anyone but if you are not patient don't start P&P ing. I unfortunatly did not take any pictures of my head but here are good pics of a 7m that is:

http://users.tpg.com.au/users/loats/...adporting.html

[El_supracabra]

That's a pretty good article. Although it does sort of lump the ideas of p&p and bowl/chamber blending into the same category.

Most people do them together although it's only necessary to blend the combustion chambers if you want to decrease the risk of ping or ultimately run lower octane fuel/higher compression ratios. The fact that it is an aluminum head with a "hemi-style" valve arrangement makes it an ideal candidate for high compression. But def strengthen up that HG with a metal one and run studs before going any higher than 9.5:1. I hope to achieve close to 10.5:1 with my setup. Although I will be running 92 octane at the very least. I am running +sized pistons, a thinner MLS cometic HG, the head has been milled .020" and the block has been milled .007" it still remains a non-interference motor so there is still room for more. Lol but I don't want to mill anymore than that.

Oh yeah last thing, when you are blending, try not to take too much off of the port divider, it's easy to significantly increase your combustion chamber size and thereby reduce your comp rat.