10-25-2010, 05:57 PM | #1 |
Stock
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 2
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1987 Toyota Supra Cranks But wont start
Have a 1987 Supra non turbo, engine will turn over, but wont start. Read all kinds of stuff in the forums but havent seen any that actually had a solution. Did the diagnostic check because the engine light is on. It did not blink. Got no response. Took the alternator off and had it tested, tested good on two different testers. There doesnt seem to be any fire going any further than the solenoid on the drivers side fender. Several people have suggested that the factory alarm system could be shutting it down. Is there a way to disarm it? Doesnt have any power going to the injectors from what we can tell. Not familiar with foreign cars so dont know how to troubleshoot this problem. Can anyone walk me through some test procedures?
Last edited by dixie2525; 10-26-2010 at 12:28 PM. |
10-25-2010, 06:19 PM | #2 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: kansas
Posts: 166
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i hope i`m right. i did it on my and you have to get under the dash on the driver side. looking straight to the steering rod you will see a small black box. theres a blue with orage stripe wire , cut it and one of the sides has to be grounded to the chasis ( not sure but I think is the side that is not going to the box). FIRST OF ALL , VERIFY IT WITH THE RADIO FUSE ON THE ENGINE BAY FIRST , TAKE IT OFF AND TRY TO CRANK IT , IF IT CRANKS THEN DO THE WIRE ON THE BOX. good luck and let us know before you cut the wire.
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Nice 87 Supra, Pearl white, targa top, 5 spd, 7mgte ARMY STRONG !! La fiebre Boricua Puerto Rico!!! Last edited by fantasma87; 10-25-2010 at 06:22 PM. |
10-25-2010, 08:33 PM | #3 |
walbro fp
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 410
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If there was no problem previous, this is also a symptom of a timing belt breaking or stripping off of the teeth. Never heard of it happening in a 7M, but I know Chrysler did that. The belt didnt break but the grooves on the belt let go right at the crank so it just slipped. Luckily because it didn't send any valves smashing into the pistons.. lol
I dont think its too terribly difficult to pull off the timing belt top cover in a 7M to check (if anyone else agrees it could be the problem)
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10-26-2010, 09:48 PM | #4 |
Stock
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 2
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Ok heres some updated info on my problem child. Checked resistance in coil this morning and found it bad. Installed new coil that tested good. The security system doesnt seem to have anything to do with the problem at this time. Reset it with the door key as found in a post. With the key off and out I still have an engine light on. With the key on I have an engine light and alternator light on. I was checking some things in the fuse box behind the battery and found that the relay marked am2 is hot on both sides with relay pulled out and key turned off. What is AM1 and AM2?? Cant find anything in the Haynes manual that tells what it is. Unbolted fuse box and turned it over and removed bottom cover to see if anything was melted. All looked ok. Unwrapped the harness looking for bad places inthe wiring and found nothing. There seems to be a large white wire and a large black wire feeding the relay. Traced white one to the pos side of the battery and the black one to the stud on the alternator. The battery terminals have been replaced. Diagrams for the 87 in the manual are minimal. The diagram calls for a yellow wire to post on alternator but it has two black ones fused together and looks factory. Dont know about the white one to the battery. Is the terminal on the alternator supposed to be hot? There are three wires in a plug on the back and they look good. Still dont think I am getting fire past the coil. Hard to check by myself. There has got to be a short somewhere with the engine light on and the key off. I have already replaced the harness for the key switch. Didnt change anything though.
Last edited by dixie2525; 10-26-2010 at 09:52 PM. |
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