Starting issue
 

Last problem i will post on here i swear!
Sometimes when my car is cold it starts right up, but when its hot, ( or having mood swings), it doesnt start
it has new starter new bat new everything basically, could it be the starter relay? i turn the key and it makes a click sound, but doesnt start. i gotta keep turning the key till it starts ( sometimes takes like 10mins)

when you "click" does your lights an everything stop working? bad battery connection.

if it just "clicks" but you still have power. probably a bad starter connection. ground / power wire, something of the sort.

new battery, lights dont dim, the connection is good, it starts SOMETIMES
it has new starter also.

See post 2 Link and post 8 Link

:werd: sounds like a plan

I had this exact same problem on my 1987 Supra Turbo. It would start cold normally then after driving and going in somewhere when I came out I would have to cycle the switch 20 times or more to get the thing to start to catch. It turned out to be the fuel pressure up main relay which is located in the fuse box under the hood near the battery. It's the round metal one (MAIN). I got another one at the parts yard by matching the schematic on the side and the part number. RELAY M4 90987-02004 and 056700-4810 I have not had this problem since replacing the relay. Getting one from the Toyota dealer is way expensive. Other Toyota cars use this relay I think I got mine from a Celica. One thing you can try next time this happens is to take out the relay with a piece of towel because it's going to be hot and tap it gently, wait a few munutes, then put back in. If starts right up, it was the relay. Alternatively you could jumper the socket slots 3 and 4 which are the left two going front to back when you pull the relay out but I would only do this for testing purposes and not drive on it or leave the jumper in place.

EFI ohmmeter troubleshooting

eh dont know if thats gonna be helpful

When mine doesn't start up right away i have to jiggle the cps wires then she starts right up.

I had the same cam position sensor wiring problem in the past too. It went away when I replaced the sensor. I recently rebuilt the sensor using a kit from kbox because the internal oil seal was leaking oil out through the front cover. I made an aluminum foil "cup" to catch the oil drips before I installed the kit. Installing the kit is not for the faint of heart, it takes some skills. I can describe my experience anyone's interested.

what?

a rebuild kit? you mean a new dust cover packing gasket and an o ring?
yea i bought that to.. 10 bucks from Toyota.

I think Bru is referring to a kit that includes an internal oil seal, bearing and drive gear, (total strip down job) I’ve only seen them available from a company in the US. Bru will know them I’m sure.

Found it Link my bad no gear,

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...f/DSCF0017.jpg

The kit is for fixing an internal oil seal leak. You will know if you have one. It was a oilly mess inside the cover. To reuse the drive gear you have to carefully drill the domed over pin enough on one side to punch it out the rest of the way out with a smaller drift pin. You don't want to enlarge either hole in the bronze gear or the steel shaft. The kit has an expansion pin that I was worried about at first but it fit tightly after being driven in. The external housing O-ring was the wrong size but kbox said it was a packaging mistake and would send the correct one. I'm glad I didn’t cut the old one, as it was still flexible.

Well my relay is fixed now
but now i have to jiggle my cps wires for it to start...
is the sensor now bad?
and my cps wires look oily from OUTSIDE
Also is the cps rebuild kit difficult?
can any provide any instructions

The oil seal repair kit won't fix a wiring issue. You can test the wiring / pickups with an ohm meter. Hack the wiring or get a replacement. The problem could be on the harness side of the wiring or the plug connection.

here is a eBay search

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_...506.m270.l1313

Here is the CPS plug Ohm readings.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ion=IG&Page=16

You can use an aligator clip to connect to G- and one of the three +. wiggle the wire bundle and watch if the needle drops intermitently indicating a break inside the insulation (analog ohm meter). Test all three + wires. Look inside the the harness side of the plug to see if any of the grip clips are stretched open too far. Adjust if necessary.