white smoke while below 1500rpm and over heating
 

Got a 1988 supra mkIII (non turbo) getting white smoke and over heating. I think its a head gasket. Also the oil is not milky and the smoke doesnt smell like oil when im below 1500rpm the car idols like its hard and unless i give it gas the car will cut off.
Any suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks
Walter

bhg bhg bhg bhg bhg bhg bhg bhg bhg.. BHG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
:uh:

i got the general idea of how to do it but i really need help on getting the best deal on a gasket set.

ebizzl fo shizzl..
or
DriftMotion (give them a call and ask them for their recommendations)

head gasket set is about 300 dollers at lordco

How many miles do you have?

Its got 214k on it. Was expecting it to happen so i was gonna do a full overhaul of the engine when i got my tax money back and running on the hope that it would wait till then before i had to change it. anywho now i'm trying to take the whole intake manifold off and the valve covers and all that off. i have a chiltons book but its for the 79-87 celica/supra and it focuses mostly on the 5mge engine and mine is the 7m-ge engine (NA). does anyone have a chiltons book that is more focused on my car like the chilton's book for 86-92 models of the supra.
so if you do have it or even better know where i can get an electronic copy for really cheap please let me know or tell me what i need to to to get it they sell in stores for mostly 30 bux but i've seen some chilton's books for other cars on craigslist for pretty cheap and sometimes free please just let me know.
Thanks guys

Walter

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/

Here is the online Toyota supra repair Manual it has everything u need very big help

wow thanks alot i went ahead and ordered a book on ebay and the gasket set on ebay too everywhere else was like almost 200 bux and with a 1 year warranty.
the guys on ebay gave me a 2 year warrenty and it was only 45 bux. so i jumped on that.
anywho i hope to be back up and running by the end of next week.

thanks again guys.
Walter

P.S. i'm also looking for the glove compartment and armrest for my car. Since my glove compartment stays open all the time, and the armrest is torn.
if anyone has either or for a reasonable price and in north carolina please hit me up on here.

You need to take the head down to a shop. It needs to be pressure checked if nothing else. The genus that replaced the head gasket before me did not and the car had a cracked head.
You may be "lucky" but a little extra car has its own rewards.

Indeed, a lot of the time the head is warped if the car's been overheated & as the tsrm will tell you the tolerance for skimming is hardly worth it (less than 4 thou warpage allowed iirc), although larger amounts can be taken off if you fit a metal head gasket (whole new ball game compared to composite, search if required).

You may well be lucky if it's not run too long like this but omit pressure/warpage checks at your peril.

On the plus side, looks like you got a good deal on the gasket itself provided it's a decent make (Can't recall what mine was as it's about a year back now, but it's a known brand over here in the UK and cost me 11 pounds plus 4 postage so there are bargains out there)

Best of luck with the repair job, follow the TSRM religously and you can't go far wrong EXCEPT-: DO NOT torque the head bolts to the specified 58lb but instead go in 3 or 4 stages up to 78lb (IIRC, somebody confirm this is correct please?) for stock bolts, or to the mfr's recommended setting for ARP bolts/studs.

Hope to hear from a happily healthy-supra-driving you in the not too distant future :bouncy:

thanks man thats the second person that told me to not torque by the specifications in the manual so it should be 78ft lbs?

Yea the 7m is a fan of Blown head gaskets do to the torque specs

75 for bolts, 90 for studs. 4 or 5 passes is what I do. If well lubed and the threads thoroughly chased 5 will make sure torque is more consistent across the head. Remember though, the greater the number of passes you make the more likely you are to have problems with striction and thus irregular torque readings.

More info here: http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...lts-studs.html

got some before pictures for you guys.
 

here are some before pictures that i'm trying to figure out what it means about my 5th piston its the only one without any corrosion on it at all and this car has over 200k miles on it.
any ideas

Yea I was in the junk yard and seen a supra with no head and two pistons looked new and the other were black like they had them to replaced or something

Generally that means it's been steam cleaned by a leak in the head gasket in one of the coolant jackets surrounding that cylinder.

so most likely that was the piston that had the head gasket leak?
any good tips on how to clean my gasket area and pistons. I'm gonna use a buffer brush and all but wanted to know if anyone had any other suggestions?

damn damn damn. read the wrong torque specs for the cam shaft u-joints and broke 2 bolts in the top of my head. now i gotta drill them out and hopefully find new bolts without fucking up my head. any suggestions?

Go buy a set of easy outs and follow the directions. If there are any uneven peaks to the broken surface file/grind it smooth before drilling the pilot.

thanks got them out but now what are the specifications on them i need when i go to a bolt shop tomorrow. i know what the torque specs are now i mean but what are the length and thread on them.

If ur looking for new bolts then take one with you or u can go to the junk yard and get all the bolts u need if you can find a supra

got it all back together and trying to start her up but she will not catch. all the hoses and vacuum lines are hooked up the only thing i don't have hooked up at the moment is a vsv valve plug cause the wires broke and i need to replace them. could that be the reason she wont start? i mean the the lines are connected but the plug isn't cause the wires are all messed up. heres a picture of what isn't getting the power too it