Originally Posted by cre (Post 91292)

Running on GE electronics isn't a good idea. They've got lower capacity injectors, a lower volume fuel pump and a much more aggressive timing map. If you don't have an aftermarket fuel controller installed and properly tuned then you're screaming for a melted piston. Not all GTE ECU's will accept GE connectors (and none are wired the same)... Pre-89 GTE ECU's will accept the connectors from a GE's wire harness (as mentioned before it needs to be rewired though and IMO it's not worth the trouble).

Nothing wrong with the distributor or VAFM on a GTE, that's how Toyota set up a number of their boosted engines... it's the ECU's fuel maps, the injectors and the timing maps that are the biggest concerns.

Originally Posted by cre (Post 91316)

A piggyback is an option but there are some things to keep in mind... mainly that the two ECUs have very different ignition advance maps... you're going to either want to pull timing across the board (a waste as it'll cost you low end power) or you'll want a piggyback which offers timing control or add an aftermarket timing system to the mix like the MSD 6.... The MAFT Pro is a piggyback which offers fuel control, timing control and boost control.

As for finding out which injectors, get the part number off of one... it's stamped in the black plastic part of the body.

Do yourself a favor and get a wideband sensor on there as soon as you can so you know you're not running lean. I'd recommend the Innovate Motorsport LC-1 as the least expensive option.... and it's a VERY good unit. (plus it'll integrate with any standalone system or the MAFT
Pro)

Originally Posted by cre (Post 91356)

The GE electronics don't have a fuel cut as it is. The MAFT Pro does have the ability to function as a FCD though but it's not a good idea to use such devices.... fuel cut's there to save your ass. ;)

You're not looking at the easiest route, but it's the most flexible that's still affordable... plus you can run a speed/density setup so no airflow meter restricting the intake. :bigthumb: Setting up S/D can be tricky at first though but you have to run in that mode if you want to take advantage of the boost control capabilities of the MAFT Pro. You've got a LOT of reading ahead of you (no matter what system you choose).

Originally Posted by cre (Post 91388)

I should add that I do recommend running the GTE's electronics though... MAFT Pro or not. As i said the fuel cut is a safety, but the second knock sensor is also very good when tuning yourself. Additionally, It's MUCH easier to get a base tune if you know that you can zero out all of the fuel maps and that anything that's not right is something that needs to be corrected in a main configuration of the piggyback. I've worked on a number of these cars with the MAFT Pro and the GTE's were always easier for me.... but I'm the only person who was running it on a boosted GE with GE electronics.