what size pickle fork opening for ball joint replacement

rjSupra · 01-25-2011, 09:17 PM

Hi all:

I've been studying Mr Nickleye's excellent write up on ball joint replacement.

My question: of the pickle forks recommended, do I need both or either one? Would the 15/16" opening fork handle the job? (I can source that tool locally, the other 11/16" one not yet).

My lower ball joints on either side flunked inspection with 3/4" of play in each one. I found them at JC Whitney for $38 something each for just the lower ball joint which I was told includes the castle nut.
My car is an 1988 which has never been in the salt (except this winter now) with 130K. Not sure if there were ever done before, and i am hoping to be able to get them out without massive drama.

Sorry for probably a dumb question, but never done any suspension work before.

Thanks!

rjSupra · 03-03-2011, 01:45 AM

Ok, I'll call myself out and say that that was a stupid question. Either size would be fine. I never touched a suspension part in my life (hence the dumb question), and i just changed my lower ball joints using Mr Nickeleye's sticky FAQ on changing ball joints with his SHORT CUT method that works awesome! I did both sides ambling along in under 5 hours. Super easy job. I would recommend the smaller sized pickle fork, I could only find the larger one 15/16" locally and it worked fine, but I think you'd have more clearance with the narrower one.
It was super easy to get the castellated nut out (the 22mm nut), I used a cut in half combo wrench with just the 7/8" open ended wrench on one side (it was cut in the middle) with a cheater bar / pipe over it. On the other side, I merely used a long-ish stock 7/8" combo wrench with the box end side. They both popped loose easy. I did not use the doubled up 22mm and 19mm wrench Mr Nickeley describes - it actually did not make any sense or fit with the many combo 7/8" and 3/4" wrenches I had.
Bashing out, really just separating, the ball joint threaded stud (it looks like a large bolt sticking thru the hub / knuckle from that hub/knuckle part was super easy too with the pickle fork. F the SST tool, no need to waste money, my pickle fork cost $8.40 at my local Robbins aka Federated Parts. I barely broke a sweat on this job. Do it yourself, I saved $450 in labor charges and inflated parts costs. I got my two ball joints for under $90 delivered. There are two listed with JC Whitney, get the cheaper ones for MKIII Supras, all these parts fit great! This has been one of the easiest jobs I've done on a car in a long time. (Way easier than my recent coolant nightmare).

Bill UK · 03-03-2011, 10:21 PM

Excellent my next job, thanks for that.

rjSupra · 03-03-2011, 11:17 PM

Bill UK
If there's anyway that I can ever help you with a tip, well, that's great, as my knowledge is so limited compared to all you guys.

But, yeah, the job is very simple. And I think my lowers were the originals with 131,000 miles on them, they did not have zerk grease fittings at the bottom, and they were 19mm nuts and bolts as spec-ed from Toyota. The pickle fork method didn't need much pressure or banging to free them up. And there was ample clearance. I think if you damaged a brake line you're either very clumsy, have very bad hand eye coordination or almost no mechanical skill. I don't really know how you could screw up anything if you are paying attention and bring some basic skills to the table.

01-25-2011, 09:17 PM	#1
rjSupra 3" Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: NH Posts: 86	what size pickle fork opening for ball joint replacement Hi all: I've been studying Mr Nickleye's excellent write up on ball joint replacement. My question: of the pickle forks recommended, do I need both or either one? Would the 15/16" opening fork handle the job? (I can source that tool locally, the other 11/16" one not yet). My lower ball joints on either side flunked inspection with 3/4" of play in each one. I found them at JC Whitney for $38 something each for just the lower ball joint which I was told includes the castle nut. My car is an 1988 which has never been in the salt (except this winter now) with 130K. Not sure if there were ever done before, and i am hoping to be able to get them out without massive drama. Sorry for probably a dumb question, but never done any suspension work before. Thanks! __________________ 88 Supra 7M-GTE Turbo, TEMS, Targa stock Last edited by rjSupra; 01-25-2011 at 09:19 PM. Reason: more specific

03-03-2011, 01:45 AM	#2
rjSupra 3" Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: NH Posts: 86	answer to my own question - either - and some tips on lower ball joints. Ok, I'll call myself out and say that that was a stupid question. Either size would be fine. I never touched a suspension part in my life (hence the dumb question), and i just changed my lower ball joints using Mr Nickeleye's sticky FAQ on changing ball joints with his SHORT CUT method that works awesome! I did both sides ambling along in under 5 hours. Super easy job. I would recommend the smaller sized pickle fork, I could only find the larger one 15/16" locally and it worked fine, but I think you'd have more clearance with the narrower one. It was super easy to get the castellated nut out (the 22mm nut), I used a cut in half combo wrench with just the 7/8" open ended wrench on one side (it was cut in the middle) with a cheater bar / pipe over it. On the other side, I merely used a long-ish stock 7/8" combo wrench with the box end side. They both popped loose easy. I did not use the doubled up 22mm and 19mm wrench Mr Nickeley describes - it actually did not make any sense or fit with the many combo 7/8" and 3/4" wrenches I had. Bashing out, really just separating, the ball joint threaded stud (it looks like a large bolt sticking thru the hub / knuckle from that hub/knuckle part was super easy too with the pickle fork. F the SST tool, no need to waste money, my pickle fork cost $8.40 at my local Robbins aka Federated Parts. I barely broke a sweat on this job. Do it yourself, I saved $450 in labor charges and inflated parts costs. I got my two ball joints for under $90 delivered. There are two listed with JC Whitney, get the cheaper ones for MKIII Supras, all these parts fit great! This has been one of the easiest jobs I've done on a car in a long time. (Way easier than my recent coolant nightmare). __________________ 88 Supra 7M-GTE Turbo, TEMS, Targa stock Last edited by rjSupra; 03-03-2011 at 01:49 AM. Reason: bad grammar mistake

03-03-2011, 11:17 PM	#4
rjSupra 3" Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: NH Posts: 86	Bill UK If there's anyway that I can ever help you with a tip, well, that's great, as my knowledge is so limited compared to all you guys. But, yeah, the job is very simple. And I think my lowers were the originals with 131,000 miles on them, they did not have zerk grease fittings at the bottom, and they were 19mm nuts and bolts as spec-ed from Toyota. The pickle fork method didn't need much pressure or banging to free them up. And there was ample clearance. I think if you damaged a brake line you're either very clumsy, have very bad hand eye coordination or almost no mechanical skill. I don't really know how you could screw up anything if you are paying attention and bring some basic skills to the table. __________________ 88 Supra 7M-GTE Turbo, TEMS, Targa stock

03-03-2011, 10:21 PM	#3
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	Excellent my next job, thanks for that.