headgasket choice

sassan · 02-08-2011, 07:25 PM

So I got a 87 turbo supra. I wanted to know chich headgasket should I get should I go ome or go a upgrade. I was told to also get arp head bolts for it but do I really need a metal headgasket and wat r the benfits of having one?

907mge · 02-08-2011, 09:56 PM

It depends on what you want to do but I believe the factory hg is good to 12psi with arp studs or bolts. A mhg is more for the higher hp numbers. But i'm sure some one else will put more info in on this.

MJG · 02-08-2011, 10:42 PM

MLS head gasket install, requires the machining of your block and head gasket mating surfaces, for a proper gasket seal. This normally means a complete engine disassembly. If an engine rebuild is something you intend to do, then I suggest the MLS head gasket without question.
Numerous people advocate the use of a stock (Toyota) head gasket and ARP bolts, with a torque of 75 Lb. Ft. as a replacement, instead of the MLS install. The head should be checked for warping and I would suggest shaving a few thou off to remove the first gasket imprint.
ARP studs or bolts, regardless of the head gasket used, is highly recommended.

sassan · 02-08-2011, 11:27 PM

I dnt plan to do a rebuild. So it seems going with the stock gasket would be better for me. I dnt plan on boosting more than 10 or 12 lbs anyway. I mean my car boost 5 lbs now 6 on a real good day. I think ill be ok wit 10 to 12 lbs. But a must is arp bolts.

this is prob a stupid ? But is there a diff from arp studs and bolts?

MJG · 02-09-2011, 01:52 AM

Yes, studs differ from the bolts.
Studs, since they are screwed into the block, will not be removed again and will greatly reduce any chance of stripping the block threads.
They have a more accurate and consistent torque loading, due to the fact the bolts are being twisted during the torque and are reacting to two different forces simultaneously.
They align gasket & head to block during assembly.
Studs will handle most any performance upgrade you may due in the future.
And if you blow up you engine, they can be used as swizzle sticks afterwards.

907mge · 02-09-2011, 01:58 AM

And the price is not that much more for the studs either.

cre · 02-09-2011, 02:08 AM

An OEM head gasket will hold a good bit over 14psi IF the block is WELL prepped and no shortcuts are taken. The best metal head gasket on the market won't hold crap if the block isn't well prepped (see: smoother than glass... not a joke), or if it is mistreated (for example using most brands of head gasket dressing on a newer Viton coated gasket is a recipe for a blow out).

The OEM head bolts are pretty close to just as strong as the ARPs, but unlike the ARPs they don't publish the specs. They're also (just like the ARPs) reuseable.... I just prefer to replace 20 year old fasteners though.

The head and block use alignment dowels to ensure everything stays in place as you install them; Studs are no substitute for this as there's a big gap all the way around each of them. There's nothing wrong with putting in studs after the head's on... actually, if the block is still in the car it's the preferred way.

Stripping the threads out of the block isn't really a consideration with these blocks and if you have to replace the HG again in the future you'll still need to remove them in order to clean and prep the block deck.

sassan · 02-09-2011, 02:35 AM

so using the oem head gasket and oem head bolts ill be just fine is that wat your saying as long as i dnt take any short cuts correct?

cre · 02-09-2011, 02:54 AM

Yes, and as long as you're not planning on adding a bunch of upgrades. The only thing to consider is that if you have to pull both engine and block for machining you might as well have the shop get it perfectly smooth and go ahead and install a MHG... BUT the 7M is NOT forgiving AT ALL if the block and head are not PERFECT.

If you do decide to go with the stock HG a basic mill job will do; The extra texture is helpful in this case as it helps bite into the HG's softer materials.

02-08-2011, 07:25 PM	#1
sassan Intake Join Date: May 2010 Location: rialto Posts: 48	headgasket choice So I got a 87 turbo supra. I wanted to know chich headgasket should I get should I go ome or go a upgrade. I was told to also get arp head bolts for it but do I really need a metal headgasket and wat r the benfits of having one?

02-09-2011, 02:08 AM	#7
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	An OEM head gasket will hold a good bit over 14psi IF the block is WELL prepped and no shortcuts are taken. The best metal head gasket on the market won't hold crap if the block isn't well prepped (see: smoother than glass... not a joke), or if it is mistreated (for example using most brands of head gasket dressing on a newer Viton coated gasket is a recipe for a blow out). The OEM head bolts are pretty close to just as strong as the ARPs, but unlike the ARPs they don't publish the specs. They're also (just like the ARPs) reuseable.... I just prefer to replace 20 year old fasteners though. The head and block use alignment dowels to ensure everything stays in place as you install them; Studs are no substitute for this as there's a big gap all the way around each of them. There's nothing wrong with putting in studs after the head's on... actually, if the block is still in the car it's the preferred way. Stripping the threads out of the block isn't really a consideration with these blocks and if you have to replace the HG again in the future you'll still need to remove them in order to clean and prep the block deck. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

02-09-2011, 02:54 AM	#9
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Yes, and as long as you're not planning on adding a bunch of upgrades. The only thing to consider is that if you have to pull both engine and block for machining you might as well have the shop get it perfectly smooth and go ahead and install a MHG... BUT the 7M is NOT forgiving AT ALL if the block and head are not PERFECT. If you do decide to go with the stock HG a basic mill job will do; The extra texture is helpful in this case as it helps bite into the HG's softer materials. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

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02-08-2011, 09:56 PM	#2
907mge 20psi boost Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Harrisburg Posts: 759	It depends on what you want to do but I believe the factory hg is good to 12psi with arp studs or bolts. A mhg is more for the higher hp numbers. But i'm sure some one else will put more info in on this.

02-08-2011, 10:42 PM	#3
MJG 3" Exhaust Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Washington State Posts: 125	MLS head gasket install, requires the machining of your block and head gasket mating surfaces, for a proper gasket seal. This normally means a complete engine disassembly. If an engine rebuild is something you intend to do, then I suggest the MLS head gasket without question. Numerous people advocate the use of a stock (Toyota) head gasket and ARP bolts, with a torque of 75 Lb. Ft. as a replacement, instead of the MLS install. The head should be checked for warping and I would suggest shaving a few thou off to remove the first gasket imprint. ARP studs or bolts, regardless of the head gasket used, is highly recommended.

02-08-2011, 11:27 PM	#4
sassan Intake Join Date: May 2010 Location: rialto Posts: 48	I dnt plan to do a rebuild. So it seems going with the stock gasket would be better for me. I dnt plan on boosting more than 10 or 12 lbs anyway. I mean my car boost 5 lbs now 6 on a real good day. I think ill be ok wit 10 to 12 lbs. But a must is arp bolts. this is prob a stupid ? But is there a diff from arp studs and bolts?

02-09-2011, 01:52 AM	#5
MJG 3" Exhaust Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Washington State Posts: 125	Yes, studs differ from the bolts. Studs, since they are screwed into the block, will not be removed again and will greatly reduce any chance of stripping the block threads. They have a more accurate and consistent torque loading, due to the fact the bolts are being twisted during the torque and are reacting to two different forces simultaneously. They align gasket & head to block during assembly. Studs will handle most any performance upgrade you may due in the future. And if you blow up you engine, they can be used as swizzle sticks afterwards.

02-09-2011, 01:58 AM	#6
907mge 20psi boost Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Harrisburg Posts: 759	And the price is not that much more for the studs either.

02-09-2011, 02:35 AM	#8
sassan Intake Join Date: May 2010 Location: rialto Posts: 48	so using the oem head gasket and oem head bolts ill be just fine is that wat your saying as long as i dnt take any short cuts correct?