Engine knock 3k RPM

[Supra Saiyan]

Originally Posted by Sonyps307

Just loosen The screws on the tps then do the jumper. when it flashes code 51 turn the tps intill the code goes away. Now recheck for codes.

Can you adjust it with the car running??

[Supra Saiyan]

I tried every adjustment.. I used my volt meter as well after 30mins of adjustments didn't work without it..

So~.. I'm going to get a new one from DriftMotion.... If that won't fix it then there has to be another issue.. ::Sigh::

So for now.. Hurray for shitty gas milage..!

[cre]

Originally Posted by Sonyps307

Just loosen The screws on the tps then do the jumper. when it flashes code 51 turn the tps intill the code goes away. Now recheck for codes.

Not the best way to do this. The specified gap is there for a reason. It's alright to do this for testing purposes but you may have intermittent idle issues.

A code 51 will occur if the A/C is turned on while the diagnostic is running or if you press the throttle too.

Additionally, a bad TPS isn't going to cause the problem you're describing.

[Supra Saiyan]

Originally Posted by cre

Not the best way to do this. The specified gap is there for a reason. It's alright to do this for testing purposes but you may have intermittent idle issues.

A code 51 will occur if the A/C is turned on while the diagnostic is running or if you press the throttle too.

Additionally, a bad TPS isn't going to cause the problem you're describing.

WTF really??!! SHIT I didn't know that! I would press the damn gas and boom 1500rpm and code 51!!! Now i gotta recalibrate it correctly and call it a day. Then find the real issue.. Check the knock sensors and maybe need to do a rebuild.. I mean it only knocks from 2k to 3.5k rpm.. It's not super duper loud like these videos either. Oil is good too. Argh~!

[cre]

Originally Posted by Supra Saiyan

WTF really??!! SHIT I didn't know that! I would press the damn gas and boom 1500rpm and code 51!!! Now i gotta recalibrate it correctly and call it a day.

Well, that's what you get for not checking with me first.

I suspect you've got a knock (just an uneducated guess) AND bad knock sensor wiring.... some people do mistaken other noises for knock though so take it from the beginning.

First, you need to fix the code 52... you MUST do this first as the extra fuel and pulled timing could be making another, smaller problem sound worse than it is.

Second, you can do this at the start too, check for any loose studs or leaks at the union of head and exhaust manifold; Some people mistaken the sound of an exhaust leak at this location for a knock.

Third, make sure there is spark getting to each cylinder.

Fourth, if you have NO CODES, check the spark timing and mechanical timing. You cannot adjust the timing if you have any diagnostic codes or the engine is cold or idling erratically.

Fifth, with all that checked, check for the offending cylinder. Start the car and have an assistant hold the car at the lowest possible RPM where the noise is still audible. Now pull the plug wires, one at a time, until the sound is gone; the engine will bog, but the sound will be gone. Wear some heavy rubber gloves to avoid getting shocked and don't let the spark jump the gap. If the noise doesn't go away you're most likely looking at a cam related problem.

Sixth, if the sound did go away when pulling one of the plug wires you now know what cylinder to focus on. Check the valves, shims, compression, spark plug and injector. If theses check out, it's time to open the bottom end.

[Supra Saiyan]

Originally Posted by cre

Well, that's what you get for not checking with me first.

I suspect you've got a knock (just an uneducated guess) AND bad knock sensor wiring.... some people do mistaken other noises for knock though so take it from the beginning.

First, you need to fix the code 52... you MUST do this first as the extra fuel and pulled timing could be making another, smaller problem sound worse than it is.

Second, you can do this at the start too, check for any loose studs or leaks at the union of head and exhaust manifold; Some people mistaken the sound of an exhaust leak at this location for a knock.

Third, make sure there is spark getting to each cylinder.

Fourth, if you have NO CODES, check the spark timing and mechanical timing. You cannot adjust the timing if you have any diagnostic codes or the engine is cold or idling erratically.

Fifth, with all that checked, check for the offending cylinder. Start the car and have an assistant hold the car at the lowest possible RPM where the noise is still audible. Now pull the plug wires, one at a time, until the sound is gone; the engine will bog, but the sound will be gone. Wear some heavy rubber gloves to avoid getting shocked and don't let the spark jump the gap. If the noise doesn't go away you're most likely looking at a cam related problem.

Sixth, if the sound did go away when pulling one of the plug wires you now know what cylinder to focus on. Check the valves, shims, compression, spark plug and injector. If theses check out, it's time to open the bottom end.

WOW! That was a huge help! I think an awesome step by step.
The weirdest thing happened.. I am baffeled.. They must have done somthing they are not saying and I know thats not it.. Because it was 6ft up the entire time.. The knock.. GONE! They simply put a high flow cat on and my down pipe..

They did say that there where 2 missing bolts from the turbo to the turbo elbow.. WTF! So maybe there was some leak or something that was causing this knock knock sound..

Oh and I took care of the code 52 almost as soon as I posted my 3rd postish..

So~ Could the 2 missing bolt have caused that issue with the knock knock (POSSIBLY)?

[cre]

Originally Posted by Supra Saiyan

The weirdest thing happened.. I am baffeled..

wow....























lol.

Originally Posted by Supra Saiyan

So~ Could the 2 missing bolt have caused that issue with the knock knock (POSSIBLY)?

I think an exhaust leak sounds quite different but, like I said, plenty of people make that mistake... Usually that far away from the head it doesn't sound as hard as it does at the header, but I won't be surprised if that's all it was.

[Supra Saiyan]

Originally Posted by cre

wow....























lol.



I think an exhaust leak sounds quite different but, like I said, plenty of people make that mistake... Usually that far away from the head it doesn't sound as hard as it does at the header, but I won't be surprised if that's all it was.

So.... Now i been spying my oil pressure.. Before my turbo died and i had to replace it my gauge would jump up under load to right above 40.. Now it is maybe up to the first bar (or a little under).. I am assuming thats 10.. I will be checking my plugs that where linked to the oil from the turbo swap. Any other ideas...?

[cre]

The stock oil pressure gauge is virtually useless for any significant diagnostic or measurement purposes. The spec for oil pressure is pretty low in general and very low at idle. I believe as low as 6psi at idle is acceptable, over 3KRPM though you wshould see between 30psi and 60psi.... lol. how's that for vague?

[supraturbo_mk3]

That sounds like your rod is knocking....Time for a 7MGTE!!! lol