Engine knock 3k RPM

[cre]

For the most part. I'm pretty sure it does trigger the check engine light but it's not persistent. It also add a LOT of fuel to the mixture to reduce knock which may cause flooding. The most common cause of the code 52 is deteriorating wiring; Second would be a physically broken sensor connector. The GTE has 2 knock sensors and the GE has one.

Sounds like you've got rod knock too though.

[Supra Saiyan]

Originally Posted by cre

For the most part. I'm pretty sure it does trigger the check engine light but it's not persistent. It also add a LOT of fuel to the mixture to reduce knock which may cause flooding. The most common cause of the code 52 is deteriorating wiring; Second would be a physically broken sensor connector. The GTE has 2 knock sensors and the GE has one.

Sounds like you've got rod knock too though.

Maybe there is some oil im low on too.. I will check it again when im off work. I swear it was fine but found some oil under the hood this morning. Also, my damn radiator cap died.. It was hissing a bit when I got to work and some anti freeze was in the over flow above normal. I think this could be something else. NOT A BHG.. More likely just needed the cap replaced, or the other issues are causing that one..

[Supra Saiyan]

Got rid of the 52.. Now I just get a 51 when I drive. When I am sitting it's just normal.. So I thinking of taking it in to my local shop. I don't wanna get taken.. Any ideas for things to watch out for..

I am thinking I just didn't calibrate it correctly.. I must be a little off. The thing shouldn't be bad but there is that slight chance it is. I bought it from a guy who had it on a working supra he was parting out.. Assuming it was good. I must have just messed up the calibration. I understand that if your even a hair off. It will throw this code..

SO.. MY QUESTION IS...
If I get it calibrated correctly, assuming there are no other issues. The code 51 should go away?

[Sonyps307]

Just loosen The screws on the tps then do the jumper. when it flashes code 51 turn the tps intill the code goes away. Now recheck for codes.

[Supra Saiyan]

Originally Posted by Sonyps307

Just loosen The screws on the tps then do the jumper. when it flashes code 51 turn the tps intill the code goes away. Now recheck for codes.

Can you adjust it with the car running??

[Supra Saiyan]

I tried every adjustment.. I used my volt meter as well after 30mins of adjustments didn't work without it..

So~.. I'm going to get a new one from DriftMotion.... If that won't fix it then there has to be another issue.. ::Sigh::

So for now.. Hurray for shitty gas milage..!

[cre]

Originally Posted by Sonyps307

Just loosen The screws on the tps then do the jumper. when it flashes code 51 turn the tps intill the code goes away. Now recheck for codes.

Not the best way to do this. The specified gap is there for a reason. It's alright to do this for testing purposes but you may have intermittent idle issues.

A code 51 will occur if the A/C is turned on while the diagnostic is running or if you press the throttle too.

Additionally, a bad TPS isn't going to cause the problem you're describing.

[Supra Saiyan]

Originally Posted by cre

Not the best way to do this. The specified gap is there for a reason. It's alright to do this for testing purposes but you may have intermittent idle issues.

A code 51 will occur if the A/C is turned on while the diagnostic is running or if you press the throttle too.

Additionally, a bad TPS isn't going to cause the problem you're describing.

WTF really??!! SHIT I didn't know that! I would press the damn gas and boom 1500rpm and code 51!!! Now i gotta recalibrate it correctly and call it a day. Then find the real issue.. Check the knock sensors and maybe need to do a rebuild.. I mean it only knocks from 2k to 3.5k rpm.. It's not super duper loud like these videos either. Oil is good too. Argh~!

[cre]

Originally Posted by Supra Saiyan

WTF really??!! SHIT I didn't know that! I would press the damn gas and boom 1500rpm and code 51!!! Now i gotta recalibrate it correctly and call it a day.

Well, that's what you get for not checking with me first.

I suspect you've got a knock (just an uneducated guess) AND bad knock sensor wiring.... some people do mistaken other noises for knock though so take it from the beginning.

First, you need to fix the code 52... you MUST do this first as the extra fuel and pulled timing could be making another, smaller problem sound worse than it is.

Second, you can do this at the start too, check for any loose studs or leaks at the union of head and exhaust manifold; Some people mistaken the sound of an exhaust leak at this location for a knock.

Third, make sure there is spark getting to each cylinder.

Fourth, if you have NO CODES, check the spark timing and mechanical timing. You cannot adjust the timing if you have any diagnostic codes or the engine is cold or idling erratically.

Fifth, with all that checked, check for the offending cylinder. Start the car and have an assistant hold the car at the lowest possible RPM where the noise is still audible. Now pull the plug wires, one at a time, until the sound is gone; the engine will bog, but the sound will be gone. Wear some heavy rubber gloves to avoid getting shocked and don't let the spark jump the gap. If the noise doesn't go away you're most likely looking at a cam related problem.

Sixth, if the sound did go away when pulling one of the plug wires you now know what cylinder to focus on. Check the valves, shims, compression, spark plug and injector. If theses check out, it's time to open the bottom end.

[supraturbo_mk3]

That sounds like your rod is knocking....Time for a 7MGTE!!! lol