car suddenly wont start - never ran great anyway, esp. cold, now cranks, but won't st

[rjSupra]

So. So.
My car has decided to re-set it's own AT error codes. With all this electrical diagnosis, the only thing I 'changed' was unplug that 5 female to 4 pin connector to the trans and re-connect it. Now it all Ohms right. And my AT error codes have vanished - no I never pulled the EFI fuse or disconnected the battery in any way.

Also, even the car has only idled several times and rev-ed and not driven, my engine codes were clear when I parked it before all this work, and now I am throwing a code #24.

I think I need a rum and coke.

[rjSupra]

- new batt (few months old)
- full gas tank 94 Octane from 5 days ago
- TPS set correctly
- just set ignition timing correct to 11 degrees (10 was rough) with gun and jumpered correctly terminals
- ignition coils wiring all looks good secure
- FP to B+ I can hear fuel rushing into throttle body area
- Alt. good, it re-charged drained new batt in 30 minutes (see below).

it did just start and idled immediately at 600 rpms in 40 degree F weather. I put it in 'R' and gassed it down slightest incline (to see if all the AT work fixed it not really able to move when cold). Drove back 30 yards fine and with some pep. Put it in 'D' to drive back up slight incline and gave it 1/4 - 1/3 throttle and it bogged down and died.

Won't start now at all. cranks and cranks. sometimes almost acts like it's going to with going up and down on the throttle but no go. (no throttle now it's not close to starting). First time it did start no throttle.

Frustrated, need to go. I experiment. Waiting several minutes and not cranking more than 15 sec mostly.
FP - B+ for a minute. Then try, crank, no start.
FP - B+ while I crank with hearing fuel rushing, no start.
Then I pull the EFI 15a fuse just in case there is some stupid computer error that needs to re-set. Put back in, nothing.
Pulled neg batt terminal off, will give it 30 min and re-try.

This car pulled this stunt after sitting for 3 hours last week. I'd try, wait, try... for 8 hours until I gave up with dead batt. Got ride back next day with truck and jumped it and it started 2nd try. Then batt charged in 30 minutes so it could easily re-start itself. Re-started it 5 - 6 times no problem over next few days.
4th time this happened in cold(er) weather. Never happened in warm, but did not drive it that much this past fall. Only thing I did that last time was take neg batt terminal off over night. So trying that now - yeah I know, it won't work, but what the hell.
I can hear relay click in car passenger side, and my TEMS activate or something like that. Ignition coil and igniter wires look hooked up solidly and ok. Spark plugs look ok 3000 miles ago.
Had cleared my engine error codes and not been back after driving 40 miles and 4 starts (originally O2 sensor and ignition coil / igniter error codes up).
This a.m. to last re-check error codes I suddenly have a '24' I never had before and have not driven the car since it was last cleared. '24' is 'Intake air temp sensor signal' - I did just pull that connector to check it with ohm / volt meter the other day, and thanks Toyota for putting the pins mounted upside down so I could not get probes into it while actually seeing what I was touching. Re-hooked it back up, at least the connector looked clean. It might have idled a few times after I was setting the ignition timing after all the codes were clear.
Also, just tried the re-start after batt neg term back. No start.
Just swapped igniter (had extra one that came with car). No start. Sort of almost but sort of doesn't count.
Don't know what to do. My only car and I have to work. This is now Dr Jekyl and Mr. Car. Surprise! Who you gonna get today?

[rjSupra]

7M-GTE stock. AT. 131K. Symptoms:
Very low power since I've owned it. WOT 1.5 years back and the the car would turbo up and pull strong after low power not on the boost. Now, it is much weaker. Sat a lot in 1.5 years.

Recently in 55-65 degree F weather, the car temp shot up in a parking lot (after hwy driving 1.5 hours - but no high temp there except up not steep hill where my turbo boost sat at +4 and I saw the temp go way up).
The coolant makes horrible boiling gurgling noises. Very hot overflow reservoir.

Car idles at 600-650 instantly on start up. IF it starts. Always starts warm, but sometimes won't start no matter what when cold - cranks and cranks.

New batt, new water pump, new T Stat and I clipped toggle and drilled 4mm hole
TPS checks out in spec.
ECT seems to pass all ohm / volt testing correct. Alt working properly.
Each pair of spark leads shows pulse on timing gun. Set timing properly - or nearly to 11 degrees.
Pulled CPS and replaced seal and set correctly with timing gun.
Fuel pump sends fuel with FP - B+ jumped. Can hear whine from pump underneath rear of car too.

Car has sat a lot since 2004/5. Only occasional runs up and down private road. No info on HG / BHG or other issues.

Because it's sat around a lot, and previous owner just added 1-2 gallons of regular gas here and there and drove it 1/4 mile on occasion, I am thinking the fuel filter is clogged?? That's my new theory. I am in hopes it's super clogged and causing this all, the super low power, and the hesitation after trying to drive off normal from a full stop, and even the occasional refusing to start. Anyone want to chime in?


(have not check the AFM, or cold start injector - is that a joke where the access to get at the electrical connector and CSI or I am looking at the wrong thing?)

Thanks!!

[DawgB0]

wow Exactly same here smh what hell with supra nowdayz but still hav faith in it just dont know where to look at now. mine keep trying to engage n pop then back to crank then start do same thing over again wit backfires thats how im amuse i have sparks and fuel and what abt air??

[vikenabm]

Old thread, but if you check back here, did you fix this? I had similar symptoms, ran horribly, very hot at idle. Did you check cam timing as well as ignition? and check for correct hook up of all coils from ignitor/to plugs? mistiming definitely could run rough, low power and very hot.

Originally Posted by rjSupra

7M-GTE stock. AT. 131K. Symptoms:
Very low power since I've owned it. WOT 1.5 years back and the the car would turbo up and pull strong after low power not on the boost. Now, it is much weaker. Sat a lot in 1.5 years.

Recently in 55-65 degree F weather, the car temp shot up in a parking lot (after hwy driving 1.5 hours - but no high temp there except up not steep hill where my turbo boost sat at +4 and I saw the temp go way up).
The coolant makes horrible boiling gurgling noises. Very hot overflow reservoir.

Car idles at 600-650 instantly on start up. IF it starts. Always starts warm, but sometimes won't start no matter what when cold - cranks and cranks.

New batt, new water pump, new T Stat and I clipped toggle and drilled 4mm hole
TPS checks out in spec.
ECT seems to pass all ohm / volt testing correct. Alt working properly.
Each pair of spark leads shows pulse on timing gun. Set timing properly - or nearly to 11 degrees.
Pulled CPS and replaced seal and set correctly with timing gun.
Fuel pump sends fuel with FP - B+ jumped. Can hear whine from pump underneath rear of car too.

Car has sat a lot since 2004/5. Only occasional runs up and down private road. No info on HG / BHG or other issues.

Because it's sat around a lot, and previous owner just added 1-2 gallons of regular gas here and there and drove it 1/4 mile on occasion, I am thinking the fuel filter is clogged?? That's my new theory. I am in hopes it's super clogged and causing this all, the super low power, and the hesitation after trying to drive off normal from a full stop, and even the occasional refusing to start. Anyone want to chime in?


(have not check the AFM, or cold start injector - is that a joke where the access to get at the electrical connector and CSI or I am looking at the wrong thing?)

Thanks!!

[rjSupra]

Hmmm... Interesting I did not check that.
Unless you mean the cam position sensor. If so, yes I did make triple sure that was set correctly.
I did not really triple check the wiring from the igniter but I am sure it's always been routed the same since I bought the car.

Anyway...
I think I've tossed in the towel on this car.
I'm going to list it up for sale here.
Either as whole car or whole car plus the parts.

I have no time at all to mess with it anymore. It's sat too long now since I had started to replace the fuel filter.