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Old 03-10-2011, 06:18 PM   #21
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If not thought out too well, you may want to mix this with the vaseline or KY.

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Old 03-23-2011, 01:47 PM   #22
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Default thanks guys

Thank you everyone who has helped me. I made a decision to stick with keeping the car and buying the 1jzte engine for $2800(the engine cost $1700). It come with another auto tranny so its complete i will also get new belts and i think i need a new water pump, for safety? idk should i change out the water pump?

Also what should i need to "freshen up" on this engine and transmission im getting?

I will be selling parts out of the old engine like the alternator and that engine harness.
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too lazy to find a funny quote, buuuutttt off the top of my head. "life always= how well you treat your car, put crap in ur car, then car breaks down, then miss important meeting, or work which just so happen u cant miss another day or ur fired... and end up with a crappy life.

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Old 03-23-2011, 03:20 PM   #23
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While you are changing the water pump might as well change the timing belt.

It never ends *grins*
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Old 03-23-2011, 04:49 PM   #24
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yeah thats what i meant by "belts" but thats ok. I sthere anything else i should change out? also what oil should i use?
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too lazy to find a funny quote, buuuutttt off the top of my head. "life always= how well you treat your car, put crap in ur car, then car breaks down, then miss important meeting, or work which just so happen u cant miss another day or ur fired... and end up with a crappy life.

driving an '88 supra
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Old 04-05-2011, 05:27 AM   #25
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Default ok here's the hole in the old engine

this is on the driverside right under the starter
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too lazy to find a funny quote, buuuutttt off the top of my head. "life always= how well you treat your car, put crap in ur car, then car breaks down, then miss important meeting, or work which just so happen u cant miss another day or ur fired... and end up with a crappy life.

driving an '88 supra
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Old 04-05-2011, 04:44 PM   #26
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Ha, nice... I put two holes like that in my first Supras' engine. Broke the no. 5 connecting rod, part went straight through the block in the no. 5 cylinder, the other part bounced around in the oil pan then went out on the other side through the block on the no. 6 cylinder
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Old 04-05-2011, 05:18 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btwilson86 View Post
Ha, nice... I put two holes like that in my first Supras' engine. Broke the no. 5 connecting rod, part went straight through the block in the no. 5 cylinder, the other part bounced around in the oil pan then went out on the other side through the block on the no. 6 cylinder
How did you manage to do this feat?
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Old 04-06-2011, 03:57 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranma View Post
How did you manage to do this feat?
hes just lucky.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranma View Post
While you are changing the water pump might as well change the timing belt.

It never ends *grins*
LOL you sure are an advocate for water pump / timing belt combo Ranma. heh, better safe then sorry. oh and the numbing agent mixed with the lube.. now thats pro! (takes down notes)
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Old 04-06-2011, 05:01 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Green7mgte View Post
hes just lucky.
Yeah, luck..... We'll go with that
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Old 04-13-2011, 08:55 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cre View Post
If not thought out too well, you may want to mix this with the vaseline or KY.

^^PRICELESS!

so, ima chime in here. the jz series engines are great, but to put one in your mk3 (or any chassis that didnt have one stock) is going to be spendy and cause more down time, especially if you arent doing the conversion yourself.

the m series motors are great reliable engines, and most of the generic problems can be fixed simply.

1-BHG. if you buy a used engine and dont need to rebuild (always recommended), retorque the head bolts to 72 lb ft (dont loosen first!).

2- oil pressure. stock is sposed to me 4.3 psi at idle (scary!). easiest thing to do is throw about 5mm of washers in the pressure relief spring, ups ur psi decently (my freinds john sees about 12 psi on his buggy with this mod).

3- rod bolts. the stock rod bolts are good but if you drive hard, they will fail. upgrading to the ARP rod bolts is cheap, easy and totally effective. ur rods will have to be resized after u install the bolts (my machine shop charges 7 bux a rod, whoopie).

really thats it, they are simple, reliable and incredibly durable. toyota blocks and cranks are incredibly stout, id say stock block, rods and crank can prolly surpass 700 hp.
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