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-   -   how does milling the cylinder head affect the valve timing?? (http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/mkiii-supra/18844-how-does-milling-the-cylinder-head-affect-the-valve-timing.html)

cre 03-31-2011 12:56 AM

If it's bogging under ~4KRPM then check all the vacuum plumbing under the intake plenum. A problem with the ACIS system will cause sluggishness at lower RPM.

Yes, 10?BTDC with the diagnostic jumper in place.

My88isGREAT 03-31-2011 01:49 AM

supracabra, did you set the cam position sensor back to where it needs to be when the motor is TDC before you installed it? Sounds like something simple that your missing. You don't need to jumper anything to check timing, just hook up timing light to #6 plug and see if it is running at 10 before TDC

cre 03-31-2011 05:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by My88isGREAT (Post 93861)
You don't need to jumper anything to check timing, just hook up timing light to #6 plug and see if it is running at 10 before TDC

You're wrong... On both counts. You can only use #6 on the GTE for timing as it runs a wasted spark setup, not so on the GE; You MUST have the engine at normal operating temperatures, no critical diagnostic codes present, and you must jumper TE1 and E1 so the ECU does not adjust the ignition timing and sticks to the programmed map explicitly.

El_supracabra 04-01-2011 03:30 PM

LOL @ my88isgreat When i FIRST posted that i had set it on 0* i didnt know that. But a couple days later, i was reading on cygnusx1 and discovered that interesting little tidbit. I set it correctly, but its still not running perfect. I think i am going to start throwing parts at it.

cre 04-01-2011 07:58 PM

I wouldn't do that...

First I would try bypassing the fuel pump relay and resistor (passenger fender) as it switches around 4K.... if that doesn't do anything either I'd take it from the top:

Remove the timing belt cover, loosen the tensioner and slide the timing belt off. Make sure that the dowel for each cam and gear is in the center hole on both cam and gear. Remove the #1 spark plug and place a 12" dowel in the hole, rotate the crank until the dowel stops moving upward and check to see if the 0? mark on the harmonic balancer is correct. After you verified that all the indicators are accurately pointing to 0? pull the CPS and reset it (again :P ); See the FAQ for a thread on setting timing it has a picture showing where the CPS internals should be pointing once the CPS is installed so you can make sure it didn't skip a tooth on you.

Go back over the wiring. Disconnect and inspect every plug/socket; Unbolt every ground and clean them all very thoroughly with sandpaper... The same for the face of the head/block/chassis that they bolt to and even the flange of the nut. A couple common mistakes here are people not bolting down all of the grounds on the back of the intake plenum or forgetting one of the wires on the back of the head on the exhaust side (especially the black wire with yellow stripe that bolts to the fire wall).

Inspect the vacuum lines and routing. Make sure the lines for the fuel pressure VSV are all correct.

My88isGREAT 04-03-2011 01:28 PM

CRE, where do you get the info that you use a dead plug to check timing? How in the hell would you check the timing on a car that is not going to run right or idle with a non-running cylinder, building pressure and not detonating? I do see the thing about jumping the diagnostic though, sorry bout that.
chupacabra, you should have marked your distributor (sorry I said cam position sensor before, scold me) before you pulled all the stuff apart so you knew how it goes together. Like I was saying, and CRE said, you need to check you mark on the distributor before you install to make sure it is lined up. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=IG&P=19 If it still runs like shit, set it back at TDC, pull out the distributor and try another tooth. Make sure you did not accidentally hook up spark plug wires in the incorrect order first, it could happen if your were not careful.... You said at first (my cams don't line up perfect) neither do mine even before I took the motor apart. The one on the exhaust side was a little to the inside. Here is the pic, if yours is like this there should be no problem. It is hard to see if your not looking at it in person but hope it helps.... I still think its your distributor but I dunno, this is why I don't help people with there stuff. :boring:

http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...6/DSCF0018.jpghttp://[IMG]http://i1183.photobucket...6/DSCF0018.jpghttp://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/...6/DSCF0018.jpg

btwilson86 04-03-2011 05:24 PM

My88isGREAT, it looks like you need to slip your timing belt off and correct your intake cam. It's obviously off by a tooth

cre 04-03-2011 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by My88isGREAT (Post 94018)
CRE, where do you get the info that you use a dead plug to check timing? How in the hell would you check the timing on a car that is not going to run right or idle with a non-running cylinder

As usual, no idea what on Earth you are talking about... RTFM. On a N/A, which is what this person has, you can only use wire #1 to check timing. On a GTE you may use either #1 or #6 as they always fire at the same time; It's called a wasted spark setup. Now go away.

Quote:

Originally Posted by My88isGREAT (Post 94018)
this is why I don't help people with there stuff. :boring:

Then stick with it. No need for you to go making exceptions just for us. ;)

Quote:

Originally Posted by btwilson86 (Post 94022)
My88isGREAT, it looks like you need to slip your timing belt off and correct your intake cam. It's obviously off by a tooth

It may be the angle of the picture and it may be as close as it's going to get. With older belts (and cheap modern production on new ones) you'll get extra slack on the belt and thus inaccurate tooth spacing.

My88isGREAT 04-04-2011 01:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by btwilson86 (Post 94022)
My88isGREAT, it looks like you need to slip your timing belt off and correct your intake cam. It's obviously off by a tooth

OK Mr. Smart guy, then how come I have TWO motors and they are EXACTLY the same, the angle on the exhaust is slightly inside, IF I moved it one tooth in either direction it would be totally screwed. As for old belt, it was EXACTLY the same when I put the motor back together with the new one, must be a conspiracy and Gates Racing is in on it too. All I can say is bring your bag of bolts & nuts and put some money on it!!! Its like when I try to help my buddy with his bone stock 77 Camaro 305, runs beautiful, does not even smoke. He ask me "what can I do to get some more power out of it" so I give him some suggestions, but when someone else is there "a hater" they say "Put a 350 in it..." Then he wants to make it look better, so I tell him to put some fatter tires on the back like 10" wides, and clean up the factory rims, they are in beautiful shape. Once again yes "a hater" says "Put some 20"s on it..." So I wont help out any more guys don't worry. Don't want to help out to tell them where the timing should be set if they did not even read the book for themselves to know...:x:

cre 04-04-2011 06:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by My88isGREAT (Post 94039)
OK Mr. Smart guy, then how come I have TWO motors and they are EXACTLY the same, the angle on the exhaust is slightly inside, IF I moved it one tooth in either direction it would be totally screwed. As for old belt, it was EXACTLY the same when I put the motor back together with the new one, must be a conspiracy and Gates Racing is in on it too.

Wow.... piece of work.

He was just going by the pic and due to the angle it DOES look like it could be off a tooth.

As for the belt, yes, some are dead perfect and some a hair off.... That's not a big deal because it's only ever 1? or 2?.

You didn't even know how to set the ignition advance so perhaps you ought to pipe down a little Junior.

Quote:

Originally Posted by My88isGREAT (Post 94039)
So I wont help out any more guys don't worry.

I won't cry... I'm sick of posting corrections and missing data after every one of your posts.


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