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ouch.... LOL
anyways...:rofl: I dont ever remember saying "my cams dont line up"....because they do. perfectly. I triple checked my valve timing, AND my ignition timing. I really dont appreciate "my88isgreat" implying that I didnt "read the book". so....:gtfo: not to mention that he said "gates racing is in on it too" does that mean they built your engine for you? cuz i built mine all by myself. Thanks CRE for the useful information. I swapped out the fuel pump relay and resistor with another one and it didnt change anything. I also put a jumper wire on the TPS connector and checked my fuel cut. according to the TSRM (that i actually read ;-) my fuel cut should be at 1800 then return at 1200. My actual fuel cut is at about 2400 and returns at about 1900. This is actually the only thing i can find "wrong" with the car. advice? oh and how do you bypass the relay? by connecting a jumper between +B and PR on the fuel pump relay connector? thanks!! |
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Here are some photos of a uncut and a cut head. The more you cut a head the flatter that rounded part under the thermostat standpipe connection gets. It's something to look for when buying a head. I had my head and block resurfaced and ended up using an old school metal shim gasket under the Toyota factory gasket. I sprayed the bottom of the shim gasket That contacts the block with Prematex copper spray. After 7 years and 35K miles, I haven't had any issues. Alternatively, you could use a thicker stacked metal head gasket alone but you really need to prepare the surfaces first. Here is a link to a company that can supply most any thickness of shim gasket you want. I wouldn't go of more than 0.040" though. It's been discussed in other forums that a 0.020" cut is a small fraction of a degree out of timing. The Toyota manual allows 0.010 but doesn't say anything more than that.
Innovative machine & supply: https://innomach.com/cylinder-head-shims |
WOW! Resurrected after over 11 YEARS!?! :eek2:
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