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can you guys help me?......
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the help has been posted already. the switch wires that need to be jumped are on the car, part of the wiring harness itself. driveshaft, check the local pick n pull yards, or you may have to pay some coin to have one made. usually 80-100 bux to have one shortened and balanced by a machinist.
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then you can get a nice aluminum shaft thats stronger than stock and lighter, freeing up a couple hp. and it wont rust to hell. plus, most machinist rates are cheaper when dealing with aluminum, at least around here. my DS for my camaro cost me 95 bux to have shortened, welded and balanced, it was from a 99 f350 superduty, 3.5 inch aluminum. weighed like 6 lbs or so, i cant remember but it was waaaay lighter than the stock steel one.:bigthumb: |
thank you for that.. i might do that to the drive shaft..
but my question for the switch is, do i even need to take the nuetral switch off the automagic or can i just jump the wires on the harness and do nothing at all with the switch??? thats what i really needed to know and beg for help... the driveshaft maybe ok. my transmission isnt sitting right so when i get it right it may acually workk |
i would say you can take the switch out and jump the wires themselves. or leave the switch in and jump them. as long as they are jumped.
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im not jumping the wires on the switch, or am i on the car? |
and guys im still looking for the driveshaft, i ONLY have like 65$ left,
is there any driveshafts that are link up? like an automagic cressida? manual CRessida, and so what year? things like that |
Have you even talked to a driveshaft company? Have you confirmed that the front half of your MKII driveshaft with the rear half of your MKIII driveshaft won't work?
What junkyards have you tried? It's a bit of a drive, but the Pick a Part in Chula Vista has always had a couple of 5 spd MKIII's when I've gone there, and they charge $35 (plus $5 core) for 2-piece driveshafts. Take the neutral switch off of the transmission. Disconnect the switch (and it's ~2' worth of wiring) from the engine wiring harness. Place the switch in a box. Tape the box up. Mail it to Hong Kong. You don't need it. Place your jumper wire in the engine wiring harness connector that your neutral switch USED TO connect to. |
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as for the drive shaft i got, i need to modify the back flange as it doesnt bolt directly to the end peice or floor board... after that im back on the dam road... also my mechanic said tht i can go to ace hardware and buy londer bolts for the bellhousing instead of spending more money for (sturdier more "reliable" and expensive bellhousing bolts) do you think thats ok? |
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