NEEd HELp - Page 3

chuck0960 · 06-06-2011, 11:07 PM

I carefully sprayed ether already. it just spits and sputters like it does when you dont put ether in it.
the reason i bought iridium is because it seemed they were the best ones to buy (guess i didnt research enough) and because it was the only plugs the store could get me within 3 days.

so the Irdidiums should be fine (according to cre, and i trust his word). but the stock ones are just NGK copper?? or NGK platinum??

El Supracabras · 06-07-2011, 11:16 AM

If they were ordered for your car, the plugs shouldn't be a problem, but if you are skeptical of your plugs, the autolite coppers only cost about $12 for 6 and they definitely work. You can always put the ngk's back in once it is running.
If you have spark, adequate fuel pressure and your timing is close enough, the engine should start. It's not that complicated. Compression is the only component left to check.
Spit and sputter? Does it show any signs of ignition, such as popping or backfiring? Have you checked for spark from the other coils? Are the spark plugs wet or dry after cranking for a few seconds?

chuck0960 · 06-07-2011, 06:47 PM

It pops and sometimes backfires xthe plugs are dry and smell like fuel. How would I check the open circuit relay to see if it's bad?

El Supracabras · 06-07-2011, 10:40 PM

There are signs of life. phew. If you are backfiring, you HAVE spark and fuel. This is combustion happening at the wrong time. You probably have the timing 180 degrees off if your marks are lined up correctly. When you set the crank pulley, did you check to see that the #1 piston was on the compression stroke? There are 2 upward strokes only 1 makes compression. Or did you line up the marks and put everything together? If so you may have found your problem. At least I hope so, it's been 3 pages already this car should be out laying rubber!

cre · 06-08-2011, 12:46 AM

Back firing when spraying in starter fluid is not unheard of even if the timing is correct.... and given the delicate nature of many of the intake controls in use in modern cars manufacturers of the cars and starter fluids both usually recommend against the use of it on EFI vehicles.

As for all the speculation about the KVAFM.... YES, you can run the GTE without one even connected... the car should drive decently all around but I'd highly recommend against trying to push it very hard. However a bad KVAFM can indeed keep the engine from running altogether... funny huh?

And on a related note; The 7M-GE cannot be run without the VAFM (vane air flow meter) connected.

chuck0960 · 06-08-2011, 03:16 AM

El Supracabas- i marked everything and put the crank at TDC and marked the CPS and then put everything back together the same way.
And yes its getting to be frustrating....it needs to be on the road so i can cruise around with the targa off on these nice sunny days!!
I finally got to the open circuit relay...but how do i test it to see if it is good?? because my fuel pump still doesnt prime the fuel rail before i attempt cranking the motor.

El Supracabras · 06-08-2011, 12:04 PM

Ok, just checking. Would have been nice if that's all it was, it's very common. I am in agreement with cre regarding the use of ether on EFI engines, however I'm running out of ideas for you.
If you think it's not priming, jumper the fuel pump from the diagnostic box. Then try to start it. Have you checked the voltage at the pump while someone cranks the engine? The procedures to check the COR should be in the tsrm.
Here's an interesting read that will hopefully help you understand what you are looking for.

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/sho...-fuel-pumps%29

chuck0960 · 06-09-2011, 01:46 AM

Well it started up yesterday. ran today. but now it decided to do what it did when i bought it. after driving so long and it gets to temp. the antifreeze empties out thru the overflow bottle. SO PISSED!!

I dont even know what to do now....
But on the other hand, Cre and El Supracabras have been extremely helpful...Thanks Guys.

El Supracabras · 06-10-2011, 06:58 PM

Glad to help.
For the benefit of any readers who may stumble upon your unfortunate situation, would you mind posting what it was exactly that eventually got the car to start? I sure would like to know.
Take a little vacation from the car and go back when you're fresh to deal with the coolant issue. Old cars (mk3 supras!) can be frustrating. My supra has taken a healthy chunk of both my patience and money but I love having a car that people will look at for a couple minutes and still ask me "what kind of car is that?". Unfortunately it is usually followed by "you're leaking coolant".

btwilson86 · 06-10-2011, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by El Supracabras

Unfortunately it is usually followed by "you're leaking coolant".

LOL, so true....

06-06-2011, 11:07 PM	#21
chuck0960 Stock Join Date: May 2011 Location: St. Clair, Mo Posts: 16	I carefully sprayed ether already. it just spits and sputters like it does when you dont put ether in it. the reason i bought iridium is because it seemed they were the best ones to buy (guess i didnt research enough) and because it was the only plugs the store could get me within 3 days. so the Irdidiums should be fine (according to cre, and i trust his word). but the stock ones are just NGK copper?? or NGK platinum?? Last edited by chuck0960; 06-06-2011 at 11:53 PM.

06-08-2011, 12:46 AM	#25
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Back firing when spraying in starter fluid is not unheard of even if the timing is correct.... and given the delicate nature of many of the intake controls in use in modern cars manufacturers of the cars and starter fluids both usually recommend against the use of it on EFI vehicles. As for all the speculation about the KVAFM.... YES, you can run the GTE without one even connected... the car should drive decently all around but I'd highly recommend against trying to push it very hard. However a bad KVAFM can indeed keep the engine from running altogether... funny huh? And on a related note; The 7M-GE cannot be run without the VAFM (vane air flow meter) connected. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

06-10-2011, 06:58 PM	#29
El Supracabras 3" Exhaust Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Chicago Posts: 240	Glad to help. For the benefit of any readers who may stumble upon your unfortunate situation, would you mind posting what it was exactly that eventually got the car to start? I sure would like to know. Take a little vacation from the car and go back when you're fresh to deal with the coolant issue. Old cars (mk3 supras!) can be frustrating. My supra has taken a healthy chunk of both my patience and money but I love having a car that people will look at for a couple minutes and still ask me "what kind of car is that?". Unfortunately it is usually followed by "you're leaking coolant". Attached Thumbnails

06-07-2011, 11:16 AM	#22
El Supracabras 3" Exhaust Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Chicago Posts: 240	If they were ordered for your car, the plugs shouldn't be a problem, but if you are skeptical of your plugs, the autolite coppers only cost about $12 for 6 and they definitely work. You can always put the ngk's back in once it is running. If you have spark, adequate fuel pressure and your timing is close enough, the engine should start. It's not that complicated. Compression is the only component left to check. Spit and sputter? Does it show any signs of ignition, such as popping or backfiring? Have you checked for spark from the other coils? Are the spark plugs wet or dry after cranking for a few seconds?

06-07-2011, 06:47 PM	#23
chuck0960 Stock Join Date: May 2011 Location: St. Clair, Mo Posts: 16	It pops and sometimes backfires xthe plugs are dry and smell like fuel. How would I check the open circuit relay to see if it's bad?

06-07-2011, 10:40 PM	#24
El Supracabras 3" Exhaust Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Chicago Posts: 240	There are signs of life. phew. If you are backfiring, you HAVE spark and fuel. This is combustion happening at the wrong time. You probably have the timing 180 degrees off if your marks are lined up correctly. When you set the crank pulley, did you check to see that the #1 piston was on the compression stroke? There are 2 upward strokes only 1 makes compression. Or did you line up the marks and put everything together? If so you may have found your problem. At least I hope so, it's been 3 pages already this car should be out laying rubber!

06-08-2011, 03:16 AM	#26
chuck0960 Stock Join Date: May 2011 Location: St. Clair, Mo Posts: 16	El Supracabas- i marked everything and put the crank at TDC and marked the CPS and then put everything back together the same way. And yes its getting to be frustrating....it needs to be on the road so i can cruise around with the targa off on these nice sunny days!! I finally got to the open circuit relay...but how do i test it to see if it is good?? because my fuel pump still doesnt prime the fuel rail before i attempt cranking the motor.

06-08-2011, 12:04 PM	#27
El Supracabras 3" Exhaust Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Chicago Posts: 240	Ok, just checking. Would have been nice if that's all it was, it's very common. I am in agreement with cre regarding the use of ether on EFI engines, however I'm running out of ideas for you. If you think it's not priming, jumper the fuel pump from the diagnostic box. Then try to start it. Have you checked the voltage at the pump while someone cranks the engine? The procedures to check the COR should be in the tsrm. Here's an interesting read that will hopefully help you understand what you are looking for. http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/sho...-fuel-pumps%29

06-09-2011, 01:46 AM	#28
chuck0960 Stock Join Date: May 2011 Location: St. Clair, Mo Posts: 16	Well it started up yesterday. ran today. but now it decided to do what it did when i bought it. after driving so long and it gets to temp. the antifreeze empties out thru the overflow bottle. SO PISSED!! I dont even know what to do now.... But on the other hand, Cre and El Supracabras have been extremely helpful...Thanks Guys.