06-04-2011, 06:51 PM | #11 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: May 2007
Location: greensboro
Posts: 242
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Yeah I usually fill from the bottom and make the level right. But since the transmission is leaking it is the rear seal I am going to fix it soon. I usually put a little more in for the long run.
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06-04-2011, 08:14 PM | #12 |
Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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What fluid did you have in it and what did you put in now? You need a 75W90 for the manual... or MT90 if you're using Redline.
The type of fluid and viscosity have absolutely no bearing on whether the transmission will shift when the vehicle is stopped; The shifter wasn't mated with the extension properly, that's all.
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06-08-2011, 07:16 AM | #13 | |
12psi boost
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: California
Posts: 277
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Quote:
i use 80w90 it honestly dont matter i presume. off topic, did you know the "W" in "75w90" means winter? hahaha thats funny to me
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1987 supra, BLUE 7mge.. AUTO TO MANUAL SWAP.. i really want turbo |
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06-08-2011, 04:49 PM | #14 |
Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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80W90 is acceptable.
Mmmmkay... And now we return you to your regularly scheduled paint huffing.
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06-09-2011, 07:01 AM | #15 | |
12psi boost
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: California
Posts: 277
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Quote:
haha no seriously.. 30w.. as in straight non multi-grade oils means weight but in 75w90, because its a multi-grade oil it means WINTER.. its viscosity is 75 in the summer.. and in the winter (the cold thickens the oil) its 90.. i learned this in class and was shocked as well and was thinking in my head "wow...my instructor is sniffing crack.." but its actually true. idk why they cant just keep it as weight... but just a lil bit of info *to myself.."he thinks im retarded"
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1987 supra, BLUE 7mge.. AUTO TO MANUAL SWAP.. i really want turbo |
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06-09-2011, 07:14 AM | #16 |
Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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Well, in his defense, it sounds like you're giving him little reason to believe otherwise. ROFL
The cold weight has more to do with the characteristics of the oil at any given point regardless of the outside temp. Also of note is that the weight or viscosity doesn't necessarily mean the oil is a certain "thickness".... there's a LOT of science to lubrication and it a good idea to at least read the basics.
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If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar ---> |
06-10-2011, 03:36 AM | #17 |
12psi boost
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: California
Posts: 277
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there is a lot to it..
i wAS just stating lol and trying to explain.. (not my best suit)
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1987 supra, BLUE 7mge.. AUTO TO MANUAL SWAP.. i really want turbo |
06-10-2011, 09:19 AM | #18 |
walbro fp
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: spokane
Posts: 479
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good explanation, but you got them backwards. 75w90: the 75 is the "winter" weight. yes cold will "thicken" the oil, but the weight of the oil (as dealing with viscosity and "cling" effect, as well as several other properties) is lower to easy the stress on mechanical parts during start-up or initial movement.
once the oil reaches operating temperature, it will actually alter on a molecular level and increase viscosity and other properties of the oil to decrease wear, improve sealing and several other purposes of oil... i used to work for valvoline and had to take an extensive class on this. this is the same for regular motor oil, gear oil etc. that is why running a 5w30 (depending on application) is much better than a 10w30 or straight 30 during winter: it save massive wear on parts during start-up/initial movement. there are also several additives put into motor and gear oil (yes even non-synthetic ones) to aid in these properties. another interesting thing about oils; synthetic vs. conventional- there is actually no oil that is "synthetically" made, it is still just crude oil, that is further refined, and normally including more or further advanced modifiers than the ones added to conventional motor oil. if theres any other questions on this, lemme know, got alot of info on the subject (even got to go on "undercover" tours of other oil companies. lets just say, yikes! at what some companies put in their oil...) back on subject now
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87 toyota 4x4 single cab short box pickup, 7MGZE. |
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