no start,cps questions

[El Supracabras]

The one on drift motion is only the sensor connector. It will look nice and original but wont help at all if the harness connector is damaged. Great price though, if they had both sides of the connector I'd order a bunch of them.

[Green7mgte]

not to hijack this thread but..
I replaced my afm and that solved the problem of it running like crap, untill it's cold outside or cold start. So im leaning to the wire or the idle air control.
I have to search to see how to clean my idle air.

[StonecoreTx]

i went to go check the connectors on my car yesterday and noticed all my connectors are two different colors, green and grey. i know that toyota used green ones on the early pre89 7m's and greys on later 89+. green ones are known for being plagued with age. the pins tend to back out because the plastic tab retainers melt or break/corrode. could use a good replacement.

driftmotion only sells the cps side of the connector and the problem might be both sides.

waiting for the weatherpack to come in from shipping, found a better deal on ebay for the "square" type 4 wire connector with pins and seals.

napa was a waste of time unless i wanted 50 of them. other auto parts stores like advanced/orileys..ect didn't even know what i was talking about.

I can tell just by the pictures that these weatherpacks are far bettter than the ancient delphi ones used on the 7m's unless a newer replacement.. the same connector is used under the coil and igniter, 3 total.


depining was easy eccept most the plastic retaining tabs broke just to get the wires/pins out. I gently lifted the tabs with a tooth pic and pull the wires back. seals were in pretty rough shape and 1 wire showed corrosion.


the weatherpacks need a special crimp tool though the cheapest i've found is the T-18 crimper, has a "m" shape unlike other wire crimpers.

here's how to properly install the weatherpacks from diyautotune.com.
cut at oem seal then strip to install seal and pin.


seat seal

seat pin and seal, crimp the large outer pin to hold seal.


crimp smaller inner pins to hold wire. solder if possible for secuirty. should come out looking like this

instead of plastic tabs on the old ones the wings on the tip of the pin holds it into the connector. a tube-like tool is used for removal.
at this point,you just stick this pin into the intended terminal until it clicks.

after the click, should have a nice seal to keep moisture and dirt out.

the back comes down to secure the wires when finished.

shiny new terminal ready for the others.