Engine is adding to much fuel
 

So after starting my car finally. too much fuel is being added and is fowling up the spark plugs. What are some things I should look into to fix the problem. I have a SAFC 1, I want to put it in but I dont know what my settings are suppose to be. anyone have one and can tell me what my settings should be??

Vacuum leak, o2 senser, tps, timing

I've had cold start injectors stick on me as well. I see your up in puyallup, I'm in aberdeen and ran my supra 2 years with no csi at all. Just took a few extra cranks in the morning to start up.

There is no vaccuum leak, o2 sensor is brand new, timing is perfect. Im considering that it might be the tps since when I tried checkin the continuity the numbers werent even in range of what tsrm was showing. Also a friend of mine said to adjust the stock fuel pressure regulator... would this help the fact there is too much fuel??

I don't think u can adjust the fuel pressure it works off of vacuum

Other problems to look at are, pull the vacuum line off the fpr, it could have a torn diaphram and sucking gas throught the hose into the intake.

Also, check for exhaust leaks at the head and cracked manifolds Any leaks here will draft in fresh air, leaning out the mixture and Oxygen sensor will indicate this to the ECU and richen the mixture up.

I like to check tps volts instead of the ohms readings. Read the thread I started on TPS voltages a few days ago.

Also, the TCCS system Toyota used is very clever. Google the VF signal in the check connector. Its a checkup on the ECU side of things post O2 correction. its a simple 1 to 5 volt staged voltage check and lets you know if the ECU is adding fuel, or taking fuel away when the engine is up to tempurature.

Check it out.

How have you determined it's running excessively rich?

No, the stock FPR is not adjustable and adjusting the pressure would just be hiding an existing problem.

Is it rich at idle? While driving? At WOT? And again... how do you know its running rich.

What else have you tested? Coolant sensor? Plug wires? Coil(s)?


BTW, the SAFC setting will need to be tailored to your specific vehicle. If it's a stock system you're usually wasting your time but you'll still want to be tuning it on a dyno. With the SAFC installed and all setting at zero there should be NO difference in how the engine operates.

Ah yes, the coolant temp sensor. My supra had a wierd stumble under boost and for the life me I could not get it figured out...ran great other wise in cruise, and minimul boost....turned out the coolent temp sender was almost corroded to the point it was about to fall off. Changed sensor and pigtail, problem solved.

There's also the potential of a boost leak.

To Cre- When I start my car I would have to have my foot on the accelerator and keep pumping it til I got it to idle high and whenever I let off the gas it will idle low then stumble. buut when I do try to drive it, there is no power and it's idling pretty high and it wouldnt go past 10mph.

Didn't mean to put idle. what I was trying to say is, When I try turning my engine over I have to put my foot on the gas so it will actually get up to higher rpms but even then I have to pump it. It seems like there are a couple cylinders that aren't sparking either.

When I pulled the spark plugs they were extremely black, so I tried cleaning them with carb cleaner and use sand paper to scrape most of it off, that's what a mechanic told me to do, I put them back in and still did the same thing and then they didnt want to spark at all. The engine just cranks over.

Look at the coolant temp first....either get the ohms it should be at a given temp and test, or see about getting a used one for testing. On a cold motor you dont even need to isntall the sensor, just unplug yours and plug the other one in. It will be ambient, very close to water at that point. See how it starts. Wifes legend was like this...nothing but crank, need starting fluid to get going. Bought the 10 dollar sensor and did just that, fired right up, so I installed it.

Actually you should pull the sensor and use a pot of water on the stove with a tiny bit of coolant or salt (to increase the boiling point) and test through the full range. NTC and PTC based sensors can shift over time and may appear fine at one temp but get further off very quickly as the temp changes. Use a GOOD thermometer to monitor the water temp.

The same thing goes for measuring rheostats (TPS and the VAFM on the GE)... should be a smooth transition, this is easiest to measure with voltage supplied though and not by the OHM readings. Well, same thing as in shifted values, not boiling them in water. ;)