Cold Air Intake suggestions

[zMrManz]

So I just recently bought a 1987 MKIII Turbo in the hopes of learning some mechanical skills and getting a fast car at the same time. So one of my first thoughts was to get a cold air intake for it. I've looked around the forum a bit and found some articles on the subject, but none of them really got me the information I wanted.

I guess my question is what's some good cold air intakes that you guys have used? Was it worth your money or would you not consider doing it knowing what you have now. Also pics would be great too!

If there was a topic about this already and you could redirect me to it I would be glad to do that as well.

[MJG]

I am not aware of any aftermarket cold air systems for the MKIII Turbo.
The stock air filter intake pulls air from the space under the front headlight bucket and is quite effective. Having said that, many owners opt for a high flow filter (I use the AEM dry flow) and build a custom system.
One option is to route an intake tube all the way to the space under the right headlight bucket and put a filter on the end. This will get the filter out of the hot engine compartment enviroment.
Another is to build a box around your aftermarket filter and draw air from under the headlight like the stock system.
I have an air scoop mounted in the right corner of the grill. Flex hose is routed under the right head light to the cut out for the factory air intake. I do not consider a cold air intake, however, it does supply cooler air to the filter when driving.
I can take some pictures if interested.

[cre]

Originally Posted by MJG

I use the AEM dry flow.

I'll second that recommendation.

Originally Posted by MJG

One option is to route an intake tube all the way to the space under the right headlight bucket and put a filter on the end. This will get the filter out of the hot engine compartment enviroment.

I prefer this setup as well. It's much less involved than building a box too.

Originally Posted by MJG

I have an air scoop mounted in the right corner of the grill. Flex hose is routed under the right head light to the cut out for the factory air intake. I do not consider a cold air intake, however, it does supply cooler air to the filter when driving.

Definitely not a preferred setup. While BARELY a step above just tossing a filter on the end of the AFM and leaving it open to the engine bay you're still leaving it open to the engine bay heat while the vehicle is at rest when the worst heat soak occurs. Depending on the number of bends and their angle you're probably not seeing any benefit that you would see by simply removing the passenger side fog light and forgetting the duct.

[907mge]

This is what I did for mine to help isolate the air coming in from the engine bay. Although it is a NA, the concept should work for a turbo as well. And as far as making the filter run under the headlight the only advice I would give is to keep it up as high as possible to prevent any chance of hydrolock. But maybe it does not rain that much where you are in utah.

http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...albums125.html

[cre]

You can add a valve to the intake piping to open if the vacuum goes above a certain value (say vac over 22InHg). OR they make cylindrical filters with a clamp on both ends which you can add to the pipe further down... they're small enough that little air will be pulled in through them as long as the primary filter isn't clogged or submerged (AEM makes one).

EDIT: http://www.aemintakes.com/air_bypass_valve.htm

[907mge]

There is also the hydroshield by INJEN but I maybe just paranode. I hear alot about people hydrolocking motors on the 7th gen celica forum because the CAI sits so low.

[MJG]

Definitely not a preferred setup. While BARELY a step above just tossing a filter on the end of the AFM and leaving it open to the engine bay you're still leaving it open to the engine bay heat while the vehicle is at rest when the worst heat soak occurs. Depending on the number of bends and their angle you're probably not seeing any benefit that you would see by simply removing the passenger side fog light and forgetting the duct.

I will not disagree with your opinion of a preferred setup. Having said that, it is not as bad of an option as you paint it, depending on the use of your Supra.
I should have been more specific.
85% of my Supra driving is highway. Granted, my setup is greatly affected by heat soak. What system is not? Placing the filter under the headlight will still leave your intake tubing exposed to heat soak.
I do not use my Supra as a daily driver. Road trips are the common use.
I have a translator Pro with speed density and monitor the intake temp as one of four values.
Around town, depending on ambient temp, the intake temp will rise at stop lights, big time. In contrast, freeway driving with 91 degree F ambient temp, climbing snoqualmie pass @ 70MPH, I had an intake temp of 72 degree F.
The system I have is not for everyone. It sure works for my application.

[zMrManz]

I also noticed that there weren't many options for an intake as well. Which is unfortunate :/

Originally Posted by MJG

One option is to route an intake tube all the way to the space under the right headlight bucket and put a filter on the end. This will get the filter out of the hot engine compartment enviroment.

This sounds interesting. How challenging would this setup be for me? I'm fairly new to this whole working on cars thing. I'm good for a challenge, but I also don't want to mess up my car either...

Also it doesn't rain too often here. But when it does, it rains hard. And this would be a daily driver as well.

Also another good thing to know is how much would each of these options cost me? I'd imagine now very much, but still good to know when weighing options.

EDIT:
@907MGE I also like your heat shield. That looks like a pretty do-able option for me as well.

[cre]

Originally Posted by MJG

85% of my Supra driving is highway. Granted, my setup is greatly affected by heat soak. What system is not? Placing the filter under the headlight will still leave your intake tubing exposed to heat soak.
I do not use my Supra as a daily driver. Road trips are the common use.
I have a translator Pro with speed density and monitor the intake temp as one of four values.
Around town, depending on ambient temp, the intake temp will rise at stop lights, big time. In contrast, freeway driving with 91 degree F ambient temp, climbing snoqualmie pass @ 70MPH, I had an intake temp of 72 degree F.
The system I have is not for everyone. It sure works for my application.

I've logged a few different setups with the MAFT Pro as well other EMS's too; Unless you're doing comparisons of each system on like builds under like conditions it means nothing. Open filters (which is all that yours is at low speed and at rest) see a huge increase in intake temps and it takes a while for the engine to clear out that excess heat. While the car is moving there's enough air moving through the engine bay to negate a good percentage of the benefits. The sum of which is more than enough for most to ensure the good ol' "dryer duct CAI"'s placement it on the "not worth it Civic mods" list; Right beneath the entry for "MASSIVE air filter sitting open in engine bay on the EXHAUST side of the bay no less" but still over a couple dozen slots below #1 "4' aluminum racing wing on FWD car with 98HP"(this really is one of my all time favorites).

Sure, any piping in the bay is subject to some heat soak but when the filter is pulling in cool air it's affect is negligible; Besides, it's nothing a good wrap or ceramic coating won't cure to a very significant degree. My soda is still nice and cool when it reaches my lips through the straw even though it's being pulled through 92? air... But put that soda in pot on a hot stove and it's another story (whether you stick in another, smaller straw and blow bubbles or not).

72?? Isn't wind chill great? You know that even if it's 100? out you can still form ice inside the intake? That's why the TB and ISCV have coolant lines run to them. Sorry to say you're not defying the laws of physics though.

Anyway, the point you're missing is that it could be much better all around for the measly cost of a couple feet of pipe with a bend in it... and it generally involves no more effort to install. Actually, the stock air box is best of all... it breathes just fine for up into the 300's is CAI, easy to replace, has after market filters available and there's no extra work to make it fit. A filter under the fog light is nice as you can fit up to 5"x7" without deleting the fog light... if you delete the fog light you can fit a whopper 7"x 10" or so... I don't remember the specifics but you can fit some real nice, big filters under there.

I'm not trying to sound like a dick (It just comes naturally, really... can't help it); There's really nothing redeeming to this mod... In my opinion it's nothing more than a weak attempt to fix what was broken by deleting a better system.

zMrManz:
Well, an AEM DryFlow will run you about $60. The AEM Bypass Valve will run you about.. you guessed it: $60. The AFM adapter for the AFM will run about $10 on eBay or Amazon. And you'll need to find a piece of pipe that's 2.75" dia (If I remember correctly, hopefully someone else will chime in with a measurement.) with a 90? bend in it and about 6" straight on one side or the bend and 12" coming off the other... Cost will depend where you get it, $10 or $15 give or take. So you're in for less than you'd pay for an Apex'i Power Intake or the K&N FIPK (both just filters sitting in the engine bay).

Use the bypass valve as the coupler to connect the pipe's 12" leg to the AFM, put the pipe through the hole the stock airbox breathed through so it points down. Pull off the fog light, install the filter, put the fog light back in and tighten everything down. If any of the piping is too long then cut as needed; It's not going to be seeing any boost so loosing a rolled bead isn't going to hurt anything (and clean out any metal shavings/dust thoroughly before final assembly and mounting).

I'd buy the adapter plate first so you know what size to get for everything else... anything over 3" and you'll be doing some cutting. All of the MKIII's I've installed full intakes for didn't use the AFM and ran 3" or larger piping... sorry I can't be of more help there.

I STRONGLY recommend you put some rubber between the pipe and the lip of the opening. I've seen piping get cut through creating a nice large turbo killing sliver of aluminum; Since seeing that I usually take some fuel line and cut it lengthwise and glue it to that lip first.

[zMrManz]

Originally Posted by cre

zMrManz:
Well, an AEM DryFlow will run you about $60. The AEM Bypass Valve will run you about.. you guessed it: $60. The AFM adapter for the AFM will run about $10 on eBay or Amazon. And you'll need to find a piece of pipe that's 2.75" dia (If I remember correctly, hopefully someone else will chime in with a measurement.) with a 90? bend in it and about 6" straight on one side or the bend and 12" coming off the other... Cost will depend where you get it, $10 or $15 give or take. So you're in for less than you'd pay for an Apex'i Power Intake or the K&N FIPK (both just filters sitting in the engine bay).

Use the bypass valve as the coupler to connect the pipe's 12" leg to the AFM, put the pipe through the hole the stock airbox breathed through so it points down. Pull off the fog light, install the filter, put the fog light back in and tighten everything down. If any of the piping is too long then cut as needed; It's not going to be seeing any boost so loosing a rolled bead isn't going to hurt anything (and clean out any metal shavings/dust thoroughly before final assembly and mounting).

I'd buy the adapter plate first so you know what size to get for everything else... anything over 3" and you'll be doing some cutting. All of the MKIII's I've installed full intakes for didn't use the AFM and ran 3" or larger piping... sorry I can't be of more help there.

I STRONGLY recommend you put some rubber between the pipe and the lip of the opening. I've seen piping get cut through creating a nice large turbo killing sliver of aluminum; Since seeing that I usually take some fuel line and cut it lengthwise and glue it to that lip first.

This actually looks like a pretty good option. I'm gonna try this out once I come across some money. Also doing all of that doesn't seem to hard, even for somebody that's new to cars like my self. Once I get it all install I'll take some pics and post them up for you guys to see.