Just picked up clean turbo supra $650!!!

[supraturbo_mk3]

I found a pretty clean 88 turbo supra for my brother for $650 a hell of deal!!!!

It has a 7MGE block, head and cams, rebuilt polished CT26 turbo, multi layer metal head gasket ARP studs, machined head and block, AFC fuel controller, knock off SSQ BOV

112K on body came from Virginia beach, TEMS work's fine....Actually still has the original supra floor mats

The bad need's transmission replaced and has a dent on the passenger side and is missing a side mold, but for the price and the year I think it's pretty damn clean and a hell of a deal here is the pictures I took of it

[cre]

-1 for the PCV delete, -1 for the evap delete, -1 for the EGR delete, -5 for the wiring, -10 for a GE block with what I presume are OEM internals (-40 if it's got OEM GE pistons), and - another 40 if they didn't install at least the factory oil cooler.

Not a terrible deal overall. You could definitely part it out for more than you paid but I wouldn't put much more into it... or you'll be in for more than it's worth real quick... There's a reason they sold it to you so cheap. I would usually rather buy a MA71 in need of a rebuild than someone else's project MA70 with a GTE swap.... They NEVER do it right and ALWAYS seem to cut corners.

[supraturbo_mk3]

So far from what I can tell he didn't try to cut corners....The Engine runs really good and he had the block machined, blue printed, and balanced.

He had the had ported and polished, ARP studs torqued to 75lbs, multi layer steel head gasket

Those are OEM internals but it's only going to be used as a daily driver

For $650 I couldn't let my brother pass on it....Like you said if need to be one could easily get far more then what was paid for......So for a daily driver I think it should serve my brother well

[cre]

If the pistons are GE you can count on things going south sooner than later (unless he put in a THICK HG)... N/A pistons like to "self ventilate" under boost... additional heat + much higher compression (especially if a stock thickness HG is used even after the block and head were shaved) + medium quality, basic alloy + no cooling from oil squirters = detonation = holes in pistons.... plenty of people have "done it right" before this guy, trust me.

IF the oil cooling is in place and either a thick HG 2mm+ or GTE pistons were installed I'd probably give it a thumbs up for a reasonable amount of upgrading and such; Still no oil squirters to cool the pistons is a negative but not as big.

Any idea what oil pump is in there?

You'd also do well to swap out the GE intake cam for a GTE cam; The GTE breathes better up top.


It'll last a little while (more if you get a proper oil cooler setup in there and no one gets the silly idea that "it'll be ok to turn up the boost just for the weekend". And thereafter you'll have a decent parts car... So I guess it's win - win; But don't get your hopes up that it's going to last for a long period of time... most N/A-Ts fail miserably and there's a reason why most people who've done them will say that they will never do another if a factory turbo option is available.

That said I'll get down off this soap box now. Good luck with the car... I'm sure he'll enjoy it.

[Awyman18]

Yea...I mean, great deal. But I always say "u pay for Wat u get for" and yea, cre is also the supra knowledge master so I would probably listen to him lol

[87hilux7mge]

for 650 i dont think its a bad deal. parts are worth a bit so thats a plus. and correct my if im wrong, but isnt the idea to create as much power as possible with the least amount of boost?

i agree the pistons will probably go south fairly quickly, but a high compression (ima guess close to my static compression ratio: 9.58:1 or a lil lower somewhere) low boost setup could potentially have more power. the 7m platform has been gone through like this before and yes, the results were....unfortunate. but i believe it could be done right, ppl have been building small block chevys, hondas etc like this for years. but not by someone willing to get rid of it so cheap. in my mind.

[cre]

Originally Posted by 87hilux7mge

but isnt the idea to create as much power as possible with the least amount of boost?

Depends on the builder's goals... but for the most part... no. A nice high power, low boost build is nice for off the line response but you can easily make up the difference in a lower compression build by upping the boost at a lesser expense with regard to reliability. With cast internals going for a high compression build is a joke and seldom anything more than a bad idea.

[87hilux7mge]

ah gotcha. yea i agree with the cast internals thing, but ive seen it done before and quite successfully.

guess it all depends on what you build it for as you said!

i read an article about boost, thermal soak etc etc. basically the lower you can run the boost, the better efficiency you can achieve.

probably more directed toward superchargers cuz thats how they work. if u can run lower boost you get less thermal buildup and soak, therefore more power potential. within a certain range of course lol. idk, too many variables.

pertaining to this article, i think that he could effectively run boost but it wont last as long as a straight turbo build.

[cre]

Thermal soak (with regard to intake charge temps) is more of a concern with superchargers (varies by design), hot-air setups (SC or turbo with no intercooler) or setups with inefficient intercoolers. Some of the great benefits of the turbo are that the heat generated by compressing the air is only a part-time affair (while you're boosting and for a cool down period after) and the engine is generally starting from a cooler state to begin with. It can become an issue if you're trying to drive up the side of a mountain with any kind of compressor but that's not something we generally try to do with sports and GT cars... We're just trying to hit a target speed as quick as possible and once there our engine essentially rests while keeping that speed (unless you're trying to maintain a speed of 120MPH, of course). Decent charge cooling on any kind of setup will generally allow for a substantial and safe increase in boost.

Generally, an increase in static compression produces less power per cycle than an increase in boost (dynamic compression) would with the sole benefit of an increased torque baseline (nice in a truck, especially if hauling loads). It also lowers the ceiling on how much boost you can run VERY quickly (crappy in a GT car).

[907mge]

The one thing I have been wondering about is how do you fix that dent? Slide hammer or would it be easier to weld a new section in?

My opinion on the mk3's is that if you are going to put money in it anyway then you might as well start out with a nicer one. Yes you will spend a little more but it will end up nicer in the end.