rebulid complete. now more power

[Jay633]

okay so my 7MGTE motor is now rebuilt up to stock spec, it was bored .020 over though not sure if it makes a difference. i put the HKS Stopper Headgasket and arp studs. and it is being powered by Driftmotions 57 trim ct26.. all i need now is fuel injectors and lexus afm and i can boost all i want?? i want to reach anywhere from 350-500 to spank supercharged stangs..

[cre]

No you can't just boost all you want. The ECU cuts fuel once measured airflow passes a certain value. The reason the Lex AFM mod works is because the bypass channel (the section which lets a certain amount of air pass unmetered) is larger and so the ECU thinks less air is coming in than really is. You'll still be capped at the same volume of air. You'll still make better use of that air though with the cooler intake charge and will see some benefit there (you'd also benefit from an intercooler upgrade). Simply put though you'll be making the same power at 12psi with your setup as someone with a stock CT-26 running 16psi. Add a fuel controller and an adjustable FPR to the equation and you'll be able to squeeze even more out of it... you could forget the Lex AFM in that case as the fuel controller serves the same purpose but it will require tuning. Either way you should be north of 350 but with the Lex probably below 400.

[Jay633]

Okay. So exactly what do I need to be able to tune the car and any links on how to tune the car? Im lost with all the options or suggestions I.e . Piggyback, standalone, maps, Maft pro I am very lost please help

[Jay633]

okay ive been reading and new question, i plan on being 350-500 so what would best suit my car a standalone or piggyback?

[jdmman2011]

Originally Posted by Jay633

okay ive been reading and new question, i plan on being 350-500 so what would best suit my car a standalone or piggyback?

I have a stand alone and a fuel managment running pushed 690 to the rear wheels running large t5 plus a 150shot of nos to pass the spool.

[cre]

Originally Posted by jdmman2011

I have a stand alone and a fuel managment running pushed 690 to the rear wheels running large t5 plus a 150shot of nos to pass the spool.

Why on Earth would you run a stand alone EMS AND a fuel controller?





Jay, it depends on what you're looking for in the end. While a basic fuel controller will do what you need it doesn't offer the fine control over other functions such as ignition timing or boost control but most do however have a lot of support (DIY and via performance shops) and generally have a small learning curve.

I really like the complete control offered by stand alone EMS's but they have much steeper learning curves, you have to tweak most settings if you want to get the most out of it (a basic preprogrammed setup file from someone else's car won't be fine tuned for yours and you'll lose potential power) The hardware is much more expensive and it's typically more expensive if you end up having a shop tune it than a more basic fuel controller. An additional benefit is the ability to install a different type of air flow meter... something less restrictive like a large GM MAF or something with no restriction such as a MAP/IAT (aka speed/density) setup; The MAFT Pro does this as well.

The MAFT Pro is a nice middle ground between the two.... It offers an obscene amount of control but still piggybacks to the stock TCCS. It costs half of what you can expect to pay for a stand alone too... BUT it has a steep learning curve and getting it to play completely nice with the TCCS can be trying at times. It offers wide band controller integration and timing and boost control which bring it to the level of stand alone functionality. I don't however recommend this system for newbies and shop support is spotty at best in most areas. As mentioned previously this system also allows you to use different types of air flow metering setups.

If you're planning on doing it yourself and have no tuning experience I'd have to recommend starting with a SAFC II or Neo and later sell it off and upgrade after you've got more experience. Don't forget you'll also need a wide band O2 sensor; I recommend the Innovate Motorsports LC-1.

[87hilux7mge]

Originally Posted by Jay633

okay ive been reading and new question, i plan on being 350-500 so what would best suit my car a standalone or piggyback?

if you want the most, standalone. in my mind, piggybacking is a way of getting by till you can afford a standalone.

standalone allows you too completely tune every aspect of your fuel and ignition (depending on product). piggy backing is mostly "fooling" a few sensors to input false signals to the computer, so you can bypass stock restrictions, to a certain point (this still depends on what product you purchase).

mind you, standalone learning curves are steep, and most of the time not very inexpensive. u have to be patient, careful and willing to put in the work.

ive seen and read about several mk3's and 7m powered vehicles cracking the 350 and even 400 barrier on the stock ecu's. past that im unsure how far the stock ecu would be effective, and the afore mentioned cars were pretty heavily modded aside from the ecu.

someone else undoubtedly has more experience and information on this particular area.

[jdmman2011]

It all depends what u are willing to do with the car if ur making fast as a drag, freeway killer or drift monster. The way i did it was i bulit the motor first with out the turbo. Just engine and then i bulit the fuel system, the reason i started with the fuel system is that everyone only bulids it for the power that there making. I built the fuel system as i was runnig a 1000hp car.

The biggest thing you have to worry about is the fuel, ecu can be reflashed and reprogramed it depends on ur tunner and shop ive seen these cars run around 500hp with a little reprograming. So the truth is how much money u have to spend and the dyno, or tunner shop u have.

A big bulid takes a while theres a lot to do and a lot of R&D belive me it wont come over night it took me 3years to get it like this and now its a part down.