ISsues with the Supras

[spainobain1234]

Common issue. NEED answer. I have a 1987 7mgte auto blue interior blue exterior, 150,000 miles performance short block and overhauled turbo ct26 not sure what overhauled means, but the receipt tells me so?

First of all, where can I get replacement rubber that surrounds all the glass on the hatch, the windshield, and the rear side windows?? The black rubber is peeling off of the chrome around the glass, is this weatherstripping? The chrome around the windows is ugly, and I need a solution to making the chrome around the windows black again. Thank you!

Second of all,
please help me, My fog light switch does not turn on. I flip the switch and there is no click sound that tells it is activating. Also, the switch does not light up when I turn the fog light switch to "on" position. Please help me figure out if this means that i only need to replace the switch. The bulbs in the fog lights themselves are brand new. Thank you!

Third,
how much will it cost for a decent paint job. Mine is blue, SHOULD I paint over the side trim molding, remove the side trim molding? How can I get the side molding trim chrome finished.???

Fourth,
Overhauled turbos. How long will it last at 6 psi if I floor it all the time?? How can I tell if it is a 57mm of 60mm CT26??? PErformance short block as well? Is it unhealthy that I have a 3 " downpipe, elbow, and then straight pipe 2.5 inch all the way back with flowmaster crooked muffler at the end? (looks pretty cool actually)? Will this burn my valves, because someone told me that straight piping will burn up my internals... ? ? That made me nervous.

Fifth,
I want to paint my supra, FLAT ARMY GREEN with deep dish rims.

Thanks ahead of time and I appreciate the responses. This is my first mk3 MA70 model supra. I name it Rupert the 3rd

[Grandavi]

You asked huge questions... First of all, the trim on the hatch (the rubber trim on the exterior) doesnt really seal much, nice to have but not a necessity. Very hard to find used.. new is too expensive. I live with mine being chipped in a couple places.

Second.. overhauled turbo usually means rebuilt and that can vary depending on who did it. No way to tell with the info you provided, but turbos aren't an extreme expense.. I would just be happy with what you have.. for now.

6 PSI and flooring it all the time? Wouldn't worry too much about the turbo.. worry more about the car. It's what we loosely refer to as driving the bag off it...

Straight pipes dont hurt turbo'd engines.. I think you are thinking about naturally aspirated (NA or.. non-turbo) engines (specifically the 7MGE). It needs slight backpressure to clear the cylinders on the exhaust side. 3" to 2.5" just means back pressure.. wont hurt anything really.. it just doesnt breathe like a full 3" exhaust will. Cant get the air/fuel in.. if you cant get it out.

Paint? Depends.. I am spending 6500.00 on body/paint on mine.. but mine is an extreme condition. Not everyone will have all the trim removed, paint the door jams, add a body kit, etc...
Simple paint job (with no body work) is about 1500.00 for a good one. However.. its a MKIII.. so you probably have rust issues (unless your lucky).

You can prep/paint the trim yourself around the windows. It isn't hard, but I dont have the "blow-by-blow" steps to do it or a recommendation for paint. Somebody here will have done it. (or.. you can search the forums)

Honestly.. just by your questions.. I would say.. dont do anything but maintenance on your Supra for a year.. read a lot of the forums (there's so much info here it will choke you), do a compression test and leakdown test to verify your engine state and retorque the headbolts if it hasnt been done lately.

The Supra is an excellent car, but its a steep learning curve to maintain/build it properly and can be very expensive. I waited 2 years before pouring money into mine. At that point I was sure the car wasn't a peice of poop and I had mapped the path out to get it done.

[Busted Knuckles]

Window Trim: If you want to go back to black on the trim, it can be painted. I just did it on my MK-III when I replaced the rear glass.

Carefully remove the trim. The top plate with the window squirter just pops off the clips. The side pieces are held at the top by a corner piece with an anchor screw, along the sides by clamping a side rail, and slid into the bottom corner piece. The bottom trim is studded through the deck lid, and the 8mm nuts are under the inside trim panel. Be very careful with the side pieces as they can be very hard to remove without bending them.

Sand them down with a semi-fine sandpaper, like 150 to 200 grit. Clean them off good, then hit them with several coats of Krylon Ultra-Flat black. I hit mine with 8 coats.

Fog lights: there is a relay under the dash that controls the fog lights. Before changing out the switch, test it with an ohmmeter. The relay is easier and cheaper to replace with a new one if that is the problem. The switch is soft, and mine doesn't give an audible 'click' either. It does stay in the 'on' position, though.

Paint: Grandavi covered that pretty good. The side molding is held by clips and studs. To remove it for a showroom finish is a big task, since some of these studs are in hard to reach areas. I personally hate the painted over molding, it speaks laziness to even taping things off. Chrome finish? That will be very expensive to get a non-metal surface chromed. I'm sure it is possible, but very pricey. Especially with the Supra's wide molding and wrap-around length.

Paint Color: Olive Drab? Seriously? You can handle that with a box of rattle cans!

[86.5nasupra]

Paint Color: Olive Drab? Seriously? You can handle that with a box of rattle cans![/QUOTE]

Amen just got done doin some body work to mine a month back went to walmart got 15 cans of satin italian olive 6 of flat black did the hood,trunklid, door handles where the trim once went on the door and behind it flat black and the rest satin italian olive came out pretty sick

[cre]

Guys... c'mon. I know there are very few Supra owners who may have seen them intact and functional but trust me on this: The window trim IS A SEAL. Go buy one of the parts which is still available new and check it out. I've posted about this a few times in the past two weeks (probably all in response to the same person's posts... :P ) including details on how to more successfully reuse your old trim.

Grandavi, it's called "scavenging" not "back pressure". The velocity of the exiting air creates a vacuum which helps more effectively evacuate exhaust gases from the combustion chamber. For this to work properly the pipe mustn't be too large in diameter at any point. Removing turbulence and oscillations in the air flow help a great deal (accomplished with well designed collectors, as few bends as possible and a GOOD resonator); And the temperature of the exhaust charge must be kept from dropping significantly as it travels through the system lest it slow, increase in density and create a positive pressure obstruction. Ideally, you want gradually increasing pipe diameter (ie: 2.25" to 2.5" to 2.75" to a 3" exit). This applies to all engine setups except that with a turbocharged setup there is little to no scavenging to speak of between the turbo and engine while you are boosting.... here there is indeed back pressure. The larger the pipe the larger the cold charge of dense air you have to push out of the way to get things moving again... But you have a larger buffer for sudden increases in volume as you get with a turbo. Turbocharged setups aren't the exception to the rule but they bring other significant factors with them which minimize the significance of other certain factors.

I hope this makes sense.... half asleep here...

[spainobain1234]

Originally Posted by 86.5nasupra

Paint Color: Olive Drab? Seriously? You can handle that with a box of rattle cans!

Amen just got done doin some body work to mine a month back went to walmart got 15 cans of satin italian olive 6 of flat black did the hood,trunklid, door handles where the trim once went on the door and behind it flat black and the rest satin italian olive came out pretty sick[/QUOTE]



About the Paint , Could you upload some pictures of the Olive Green Paint Job? I really want to know how good this Looks! I still have stock rims but I am going DEEP DISH sports max racing rims. 18 x 8.5 front +35 offset and 18x 9.5 rear +35 offset ... $400 ! cheap if you ask me. Ya Please upload as many pictures of the FLAT olive green paint job Its gonna look AWEsOme. I just prepped my new garage so that I have the room to paint the SUPRA! Lol EXcited

[spainobain1234]

Originally Posted by cre

Guys... c'mon. I know there are very few Supra owners who may have seen them intact and functional but trust me on this: The window trim IS A SEAL. Go buy one of the parts which is still available new and check it out. I've posted about this a few times in the past two weeks (probably all in response to the same person's posts... :P ) including details on how to more successfully reuse your old trim.

Grandavi, it's called "scavenging" not "back pressure". The velocity of the exiting air creates a vacuum which helps more effectively evacuate exhaust gases from the combustion chamber. For this to work properly the pipe mustn't be too large in diameter at any point. Removing turbulence and oscillations in the air flow help a great deal (accomplished with well designed collectors, as few bends as possible and a GOOD resonator); And the temperature of the exhaust charge must be kept from dropping significantly as it travels through the system lest it slow, increase in density and create a positive pressure obstruction. Ideally, you want gradually increasing pipe diameter (ie: 2.25" to 2.5" to 2.75" to a 3" exit). This applies to all engine setups except that with a turbocharged setup there is little to no scavenging to speak of between the turbo and engine while you are boosting.... here there is indeed back pressure. The larger the pipe the larger the cold charge of dense air you have to push out of the way to get things moving again... But you have a larger buffer for sudden increases in volume as you get with a turbo. Turbocharged setups aren't the exception to the rule but they bring other significant factors with them which minimize the significance of other certain factors.

I hope this makes sense.... half asleep here...

Mybe I am better off purchasing the brand new window trim, or having a fabrication done by a custom auto glass shop local in the area. Maybe an AutoGlass shop will have a thick, reliable rubber that will strectch around the windows with a decent fitment! That would be great. I will keep you updated. It is so stupid that Toyota put metal under the rubber trim , because it obviously became a peeling nasty result.

Also I am completely confused about the exhaust system. I have a 3 inch downpipe from the turbo going under the car, and then a 2.5" flowmaster straight pipe and only one muffler hooked to the the end of the flowmaster pipe. Will this hurt my engine?? or Turbo? I can smell the fumes in the car hahaha only when I stomp on it. Man this baby has got power!

[spainobain1234]

Originally Posted by cre

Guys... c'mon. I know there are very few Supra owners who may have seen them intact and functional but trust me on this: The window trim IS A SEAL. Go buy one of the parts which is still available new and check it out. I've posted about this a few times in the past two weeks (probably all in response to the same person's posts... :P ) including details on how to more successfully reuse your old trim.

Grandavi, it's called "scavenging" not "back pressure". The velocity of the exiting air creates a vacuum which helps more effectively evacuate exhaust gases from the combustion chamber. For this to work properly the pipe mustn't be too large in diameter at any point. Removing turbulence and oscillations in the air flow help a great deal (accomplished with well designed collectors, as few bends as possible and a GOOD resonator); And the temperature of the exhaust charge must be kept from dropping significantly as it travels through the system lest it slow, increase in density and create a positive pressure obstruction. Ideally, you want gradually increasing pipe diameter (ie: 2.25" to 2.5" to 2.75" to a 3" exit). This applies to all engine setups except that with a turbocharged setup there is little to no scavenging to speak of between the turbo and engine while you are boosting.... here there is indeed back pressure. The larger the pipe the larger the cold charge of dense air you have to push out of the way to get things moving again... But you have a larger buffer for sudden increases in volume as you get with a turbo. Turbocharged setups aren't the exception to the rule but they bring other significant factors with them which minimize the significance of other certain factors.

I hope this makes sense.... half asleep here...

HAhahah Sleep Me TOO! upside down like a Possum Bat. thanks for the GREAT Responses Y'aLL! HAppy Halloween!!

[cre]

Originally Posted by spainobain1234

Also I am completely confused about the exhaust system. I have a 3 inch downpipe from the turbo going under the car, and then a 2.5" flowmaster straight pipe and only one muffler hooked to the the end of the flowmaster pipe. Will this hurt my engine?? or Turbo? I can smell the fumes in the car hahaha only when I stomp on it. Man this baby has got power!

No, it's not going to hurt anything... it's not ideal (it's a bottleneck) but it's not going to damage anything.

It's not the cause of you running too rich either, they're just tuned that way from the factory and if you're missing your cat it'll be 10x worse.