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Please help with my clutch
Okay so all of a sudden I start my car this morning and the clutch pedal is all loose... I pushed it down and it goes down like nothing. It wont cone back up wither so it wont let me put it in gear because it's fully depresses... the clutch fluid is fine, so I don't know what else it can be its a 88long supra 5 speed
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check ur clutch master cylinder for a leak or air bubbles
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yep, master cyl or slave. im thinking slave if the fluid is still topped up.
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Jay, the clutch pedal will sit on the floor anytime it gets no pressure build-up. I've noticed this in many makes and models. You'll need to reach down and pull it back up.
If the system is sound, and it was just expelling an air bubble, the pedal should now be firm. If there is still no pressure, try bleeding the clutch system. If that doesn't work, you probably have a bad master cylinder that cannot transfer pressure to the slave cylinder. This is based on your mention of plenty of fluid and no obvious leaks. |
at the same time, ive had the slaves fill up the weather protection boot with fluid, and not leak. visually i couldnt tell anything was wrong, but had no pedal and still had enough fluid in the res. this happened on my 93 nissan altima.
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The fluid level may also appear fine if you check it while the master cylinder is still pressed in. Prop the clutch pedal up and then check the fluid level. While you're on the floor check if the floor or the firewall (coming down from the cylinder) feel wet or oily.
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agreed, +1
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Thanks so much guys well it ended it up being a faulty slave cylinder I believe but the master was already old too so I replaced both now its good to go......... on a side note I have a question. Will my supra be able to pass smog with custom three inch exhaust if I put the cats back on?
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The diameter of pipe doesn't affect the volume of air moving through the pipe at any given RPM (just pressure and velocity) and has nothing to do with the contents of the exhaust.
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With that being said the I should pas as long as long as the cats are good
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So then what would make me fail
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on a side note, are the symptoms of a bad master cylinder and slave cylinder the same? i replaced my master like 3 months ago but not the slave. shifts are works fine but just curious
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Yeah, same symptoms. |
Short answer - Yes.
Longer - Assuming there are no other mods that may affect fuel mix and emissions. |
Well the only other mod that may affect that is the 57 trim ct26 turbo... and a engine code 11 wont hurt it will it? (Towards the smog)
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Code 11? Momentary interruption of ECU power... So, unreliable ECU... Uh, it might.
There are a hundred factors which may cause you to fail. Without knowing specifically how it has failed (what the measured levels were) you'd really just have to make sure the car was completely bone stock and everything in near new condition to get anyone to assure that it would be just fine (even then it's only going to be 99%, always room for something to go wrong). With the 57 trim some areas may be a little leaner than stock which may bring up the NOx a fraction, nothing I'd worry about as long as the EGR system is in good shape. Now the code 11 could indeed cause issues. Especially if a hiccup occurs during the test. Even if it doesn't fail the sniffer test they may fail it for a check light during inspection. But, you really won't know until you take it in. I strongly recommend you get that code 11 fixed though. |
That really blows!!! I checked the plugs on the ecumenical and I couldn't find a thing.. my mechanic said he gad no idea so he was no help, would replacing the ecu help?
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Alsoi have nothing but the turbo, exhaust an intake and that's it. The motor was rebuilt to stock specs along with metal hg and arp studs
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Ecumenical? I fail to see how that word applies to anything. Your phone trying to auto-fill with the wrong terms?
ECU, wireharness, EFI relay, Circuit opening relay, bad grounds. Have you cleared the code and verified it is recurring? |
Yeah im sorry my phone auto filled that.... yeah i cleared it and still occurs. O boy this is gonna be tough to fix
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Relays are easy to test and grounds are easy to clean. ;)
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also i dont know if this is normal or will help identify whats wrong but the check engine light will not turn on unless i put it in a gear higher than one, so if i cruise 1st gear it wont turn on until i switch til second
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But no new codes are stored? Then start with the usual suspects... Battery cables, alternator (unlikely), relays and grounds.
The only other thing to try is put the diagnostic jumper in and (with a passenger to count any flashes) go for a short drive.... Should only see a code 51. There are some codes which only appear while the fault is actually happening. |
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