Stalling alot
 

Hi I have a stalling out problem. It hapends when I rev and macke the. BOV go off or when I stop at a light. Wat wil hapen is it will hunt a lil then stall. I do have leaking BOV it's the stalk boche one curantly not recerculating it it has a filter on it when I take the filter of it gets worse. I'm just wondering if I'm in the right place or not is there somthing elts that could caus this?

This has been very thoroughly covered in the past; For more info search the forum. The problem is due to the BOV. Everytime it opens you're dumping out air that the ECU has already measured and added fuel for... basically you're drowning it. When you have the filter on it dumps less effectively so more air stays in the system reducing the sudden richness. Either recirculate it or buy a fuel controller to tune for it. As with many things, aging components will exacerbate the symptoms but very few people ever get away with this without having trouble on a vehicle with a KVAFM, VAFM or MAF... MAP setups are essentially immune (see: 1JZ and 2JZ).

Sweet I was thinking the exact thing. So that being said I used to have a Mitsubishi eclipse with a 4G63 turbo and I installed a greddy type-rs BOV on it and I had to adjust it so it would stall on me (instructions even said) after that was done it ran purfect and vary responsive wile venting to atnospher and it too had a MAF before the turbo so with that expirince dose it make cence that if I get a adjustable BOV I could do the same with this car?

Adjustment of the BOV has nothing to do with the actual problem. You may adjust the trigger vacuum level on many BOVs; With this ability you may set the BOV to not open unless the vacuum signal is higher than you'll see when coming out of light boost levels. This increases mid-shift response and reduces stalling while coming completely off throttle during light driving... but it's just a band-aid and you're essentially turning off the BOV under those conditions. You'll still have excessive richness when the BOV does open it's just less obvious under casual driving conditions. There's also a performance/power loss because of it which you can only remedy by converting to a different air meter setup, modifying to a blow-through setup (not really an option with a KVAFM system, I'm sorry to say) or by adding a device which will let you tune the fueling to account for the tip-out richness (a fuel controller). There is no cheat, not if you're really looking to get the best performance as possible... Personally, I'd ditch the whistle in favor of performance.