Random stalling

[Blindedlegacy]

This problem is getting annoying. 1986.5 na 5speed. When I am driving and I decide to reign on the heat I lose speed and can't acclerate for about 3 seconds. Also if I am at a complete stop out of no where she cuts off and I don't even notice it. and I notice it only happens on warm days, both issues. If anyone had dealt with this before please help

[cre]

Have you checked for diagnostic error codes? Look in the FAQ section for a how-to if you need. Start with that.

I don't understand what you mean by "reign on the heat"... you just referring to running the engine hard or is your climate control or engine temp part of the issue?

[Blindedlegacy]

Originally Posted by cre

Have you checked for diagnostic error codes? Look in the FAQ section for a how-to if you need. Start with that.

I don't understand what you mean by "reign on the heat"... you just referring to running the engine hard or is your climate control or engine temp part of the issue?

I meant to say turn on the heat. And there are no trouble codes

[cre]

No stored codes or just no check engine light? Sorry have to ask, a lot of people think that the CEL comes on if ANY codes are stored and that's not true, MOST don't cause it to light up.

The bogging when the heat comes on is something I'm going to have to think about.... The first thing that comes to mind is that the heater is drawing more current than the alternator can provide... could also account for stalling. Check the voltage from the alternator and then while watching the meter have someone turn on the heat.

As for the stalling I'd start with checking that the ISCV (Idle Speed Control Valve) isn't clogged and test it; Then test the AFM; Test and calibrate the TPS; Check for vacuum leaks or openings in the intake piping.

[Blindedlegacy]

Originally Posted by cre

No stored codes or just no check engine light? Sorry have to ask, a lot of people think that the CEL comes on if ANY codes are stored and that's not true, MOST don't cause it to light up.

The bogging when the heat comes on is something I'm going to have to think about.... The first thing that comes to mind is that the heater is drawing more current than the alternator can provide... could also account for stalling. Check the voltage from the alternator and then while watching the meter have someone turn on the heat.

As for the stalling I'd start with checking that the ISCV (Idle Speed Control Valve) isn't clogged and test it; Then test the AFM; Test and calibrate the TPS; Check for vacuum leaks or openings in the intake piping.

ok im sorry this took so long but i just got the codes.
22 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor signal.
24 Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.
41 Throttle Position Sensor signal.

if i am right 22 is that makes the car hard to start if not plugged in and its not doing that and it is plugged in

24 i have no clue where that is

41 is also plugged in and working

are these stored codes or what? also im going to try the tps calibrating

[cre]

Code 41 isn't a calibration error. Either the TPS has been unplugged at some point, is damaged or the wiring harness or ECU is damaged.

Code 22 doesn't always result in difficulty starting... It may result in difficulty starting difficulty starting in significantly cold or hot weather. Essentially though it causes the ECU to run as if it were cold: see Lots of extra fuel, base timing map, open loop operation.

Code 24, like code 41, is set if the AFM is disconnected while the ECU is powered up or if it is damaged or the wiring or ECU are damaged. I believe that if the error is persistent the ECU assumes an ambient air temp of around 70?F; If the actual air temp is significantly different this will also severely affect performance.

While these codes will all remain stored in the ECU they should not affect performance if the problem has been corrected. You may clear them and see if they return after a drive or two.

Do note that the ECU temp sensor is not the same one used for the dash gauge; So don't go thinking that because the gauge works the sensor is fine.

[btwilson86]

Before replacing the parts, do the test suggested earlier in this thread and check the voltage at the alternator and at the battery (with the car running). If the voltage at the alternator is higher than the battery, you likely have a bad connection somewhere in the charging system wiring. The voltage should be the same at both the battery and alternator, and you should have about 13.5 volts. If it's significantly lower, your alternator is likely bad and should be able to be tested at a parts store for free. Be sure to test it both with nothing extra turned on (lights, heater, etc) and with everything turned on and make sure it still produces that 13.5 volts.

[Blindedlegacy]

Originally Posted by btwilson86

Before replacing the parts, do the test suggested earlier in this thread and check the voltage at the alternator and at the battery (with the car running). If the voltage at the alternator is higher than the battery, you likely have a bad connection somewhere in the charging system wiring. The voltage should be the same at both the battery and alternator, and you should have about 13.5 volts. If it's significantly lower, your alternator is likely bad and should be able to be tested at a parts store for free. Be sure to test it both with nothing extra turned on (lights, heater, etc) and with everything turned on and make sure it still produces that 13.5 volts.

Ive done that with car not running then running. Loads on and off. The readings get lower and lower from cold to operating temp. I havent tested around when it starts to shut down which is about 15 to 20 mins. But when I go to work and park my car I turn on a load such as my efans or blower motor and everything shuts down

[Blindedlegacy]

Update.,new bat alt and belts and it still dies with an electrical load after hitting operation temp

[Blindedlegacy]

I was talking to one of the techs at my job. Told him the story about my car from the begininh. Jumped my bros car the around the time I got my supra. That same day my coolant temp gauge stopped working. 2 techs heard that and gasped and said I might have fried my computer