Wird idle and chek engine light

RyanDronsfield · 02-10-2012, 03:35 PM

I have a check engin light on that came on this morning and it only comes on at idl speed then gose off when I start moving again. Ther is a bit of a funny idle as it usaly idles at 1000 now it starts ther but drops to between 850-900rpm. It wasn't doing this when I put it away for a weed due to monye issue and having no gas. So I was wondering wat it could be if any one had somthing similar.

cre · 02-10-2012, 07:54 PM

Start by reading the diagnostic codes stored in the ECU. The first thread in the MKIII FAQ sections covers how to do this. Post the diagnostic codes here once you've read them and we'll try to figure out what you need to do next.

RyanDronsfield · 02-22-2012, 12:06 AM

oh sweet thanx that may help (tried looking for a OBD1 and theres nothing close enough lol now do you need to start the car or just nin the on position or in ACC position

cre · 02-22-2012, 04:06 AM

It's in diagnostic mode as long as the jumper is in place and the ECU is powered. The engine need not be running although running it and driving it will sometimes reveal additional diagnostic faults; nonetheless, for your tupical diagnostics just leaving the engine off with the key turned to the "ON" position is sufficient. Put in the jumper while the ignition is "OFF" though.

RyanDronsfield · 02-22-2012, 07:41 AM

thank you was fussing with it all day could not get any thing to come up

it got a lil worse before it would be hesitant kinda like a boost leak then id get to speed and it will be normal and wouldn't do it for a while then come back.
now some times it will start and die one or twice and the the hesitation again then go to normal and the light goes off. ive had a similar problem with out hesitation and other symptoms it would not want to stay running until it was at temp. this turned out to be the coolant tempe sensor but for that the engine light stayed on.

sorry to be a bother it seem that ur the only one that replies to my posts and 9 times out of 10 your there till i fix it with 100% effectiveness i feel i owe u alot

or at least a coffee or timmy's donut

RyanDronsfield · 02-22-2012, 08:48 AM

hay got it to work

yay me now it gose flash....flash that means code 11 right ?

RyanDronsfield · 02-22-2012, 08:56 AM

EEEEEEKKKKKKK sounds bad and major. Code 11 Momentary interruption in power supply to ECU (electronic control unit or computer) up to 1991 what dose that mean?????

cre · 02-22-2012, 09:07 AM

I accept all major credit cards.

Seriously though... Check your ignition timing, once you're sure that's set properly insert the diagnostic mode jumper firmly and go for a drive with a passenger. Have them count the flashes and jot down which codes come up. The only code which should appear is 51, that's normal. I hate to say it but if not a boost leak or AFM with damage that the ECU isn't catching it sounds a lot like knock. The Check Engine light is the only one that comes on when it stumbles? No battery or any others? That would be indicitive of a power issue. Do you have to turn off the car to get it running right again? Have you inspected the ignition components? Plugs, wires, coils, igniter?

This "it would be hesitant kinda like a boost leak then id get to speed and it will be normal" sounds exactly like a boost leak. The fact that it is intermittent is not common but does happen. A tight boost leak will only leak after a certain level of pressure is met; The "cracking pressure"... The pressure at which the leak will stop passing air again is always lower than the cracking pressure. So if you've got a leak which doesn't open until 12psi, your boost spikes to 12psi before leveling at 11psi and the leak seals at 10psi you will experience the following:

1) You accelerate and build boost normally.
2) The car stumbles when the leak opens at 12psi.
3) The wastegate stabilizes pressure at 11psi but the engine is working too hard and the ECU sees too much air coming through as the leak is still dumping air.
4) You let up and pressure drops below 10psi, the leak closes, the ECU sees that the measured airflow is back within spec and the CEL turns off.
5) You accelerate more but with caution and as the wastegate is already open there is no spike to force the leak open.... You assume all is well. You're still actually going to be leaking some air but it's a relatively benign amount.

The only problem is that this should set a code for either the AFM or turbocharger pressure. Search via Google for "DIY boost leak detector" for an inexpensive way to pressure test the system, don't exceed 15 or 16psi.

Anyway, if the CEL comes on a code will be stored 90% of the time. Only real time, non-critical codes are not stored once the detected problem is no longer evident. I'm not sure if some trouble events require a certain time period before they are set... If there are any then you may need to drive for a while before you see a code stored for that particular event.

I'm quite tired and out of it... I believe all of this is relevant to the MKIII but you might want to check back for edits tomorrow.

forgedoil · 02-22-2012, 11:40 AM

my 88 NA Supra, whenever I accelerate full throttle, like entering a fwy, it "bogs"/Putters" when the motor reaches 4200 rpms.

I dont have any codes. What could this be? I recall once forgetting to put the dipstick in the dipstick tube and the car motor would stall at a stop light, once i put the dipstick in the dipstick tube it ceased doing that. With that being said; I noticed the dipstick tube housing was loose and easily came off. So I put silicone around the rim that enters the motor and the seal slightly improved the puttering upon full throttle acceleration but the car still putters" and gets stuck" at around 4200 rpms...???

RyanDronsfield · 02-22-2012, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by forgedoil

my 88 NA Supra, whenever I accelerate full throttle, like entering a fwy, it "bogs"/Putters" when the motor reaches 4200 rpms.

I dont have any codes. What could this be? I recall once forgetting to put the dipstick in the dipstick tube and the car motor would stall at a stop light, once i put the dipstick in the dipstick tube it ceased doing that. With that being said; I noticed the dipstick tube housing was loose and easily came off. So I put silicone around the rim that enters the motor and the seal slightly improved the puttering upon full throttle acceleration but the car still putters" and gets stuck" at around 4200 rpms...???

Sounds to me like it could be meany things ur car is natraly aspirated but still relies on a vacuum to do such tasks as regulat fule presser, I'd start with that then check ur ignition (spark plug spark plug wires distributer/coil pac and timing) a nother could be ur fule filter.
Those could cause hesitation/bogging but in a natraly aspirated engines I haven't seen it happn in such heavy symptoms I'd sugest there be multiple problems.

Mine only has hesitation sometimes and only in the lower rpm band ( so no building boost)

02-10-2012, 03:35 PM	#1
RyanDronsfield Stock Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: BC Posts: 20	Wird idle and chek engine light I have a check engin light on that came on this morning and it only comes on at idl speed then gose off when I start moving again. Ther is a bit of a funny idle as it usaly idles at 1000 now it starts ther but drops to between 850-900rpm. It wasn't doing this when I put it away for a weed due to monye issue and having no gas. So I was wondering wat it could be if any one had somthing similar.

02-10-2012, 07:54 PM	#2
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Start by reading the diagnostic codes stored in the ECU. The first thread in the MKIII FAQ sections covers how to do this. Post the diagnostic codes here once you've read them and we'll try to figure out what you need to do next. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

02-22-2012, 04:06 AM	#4
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	It's in diagnostic mode as long as the jumper is in place and the ECU is powered. The engine need not be running although running it and driving it will sometimes reveal additional diagnostic faults; nonetheless, for your tupical diagnostics just leaving the engine off with the key turned to the "ON" position is sufficient. Put in the jumper while the ignition is "OFF" though. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

02-22-2012, 09:07 AM	#8
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	I accept all major credit cards. Seriously though... Check your ignition timing, once you're sure that's set properly insert the diagnostic mode jumper firmly and go for a drive with a passenger. Have them count the flashes and jot down which codes come up. The only code which should appear is 51, that's normal. I hate to say it but if not a boost leak or AFM with damage that the ECU isn't catching it sounds a lot like knock. The Check Engine light is the only one that comes on when it stumbles? No battery or any others? That would be indicitive of a power issue. Do you have to turn off the car to get it running right again? Have you inspected the ignition components? Plugs, wires, coils, igniter? This "it would be hesitant kinda like a boost leak then id get to speed and it will be normal" sounds exactly like a boost leak. The fact that it is intermittent is not common but does happen. A tight boost leak will only leak after a certain level of pressure is met; The "cracking pressure"... The pressure at which the leak will stop passing air again is always lower than the cracking pressure. So if you've got a leak which doesn't open until 12psi, your boost spikes to 12psi before leveling at 11psi and the leak seals at 10psi you will experience the following: 1) You accelerate and build boost normally. 2) The car stumbles when the leak opens at 12psi. 3) The wastegate stabilizes pressure at 11psi but the engine is working too hard and the ECU sees too much air coming through as the leak is still dumping air. 4) You let up and pressure drops below 10psi, the leak closes, the ECU sees that the measured airflow is back within spec and the CEL turns off. 5) You accelerate more but with caution and as the wastegate is already open there is no spike to force the leak open.... You assume all is well. You're still actually going to be leaking some air but it's a relatively benign amount. The only problem is that this should set a code for either the AFM or turbocharger pressure. Search via Google for "DIY boost leak detector" for an inexpensive way to pressure test the system, don't exceed 15 or 16psi. Anyway, if the CEL comes on a code will be stored 90% of the time. Only real time, non-critical codes are not stored once the detected problem is no longer evident. I'm not sure if some trouble events require a certain time period before they are set... If there are any then you may need to drive for a while before you see a code stored for that particular event. I'm quite tired and out of it... I believe all of this is relevant to the MKIII but you might want to check back for edits tomorrow. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

02-22-2012, 12:06 AM	#3
RyanDronsfield Stock Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: BC Posts: 20	oh sweet thanx that may help (tried looking for a OBD1 and theres nothing close enough lol now do you need to start the car or just nin the on position or in ACC position

02-22-2012, 07:41 AM	#5
RyanDronsfield Stock Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: BC Posts: 20	thank you was fussing with it all day could not get any thing to come up it got a lil worse before it would be hesitant kinda like a boost leak then id get to speed and it will be normal and wouldn't do it for a while then come back. now some times it will start and die one or twice and the the hesitation again then go to normal and the light goes off. ive had a similar problem with out hesitation and other symptoms it would not want to stay running until it was at temp. this turned out to be the coolant tempe sensor but for that the engine light stayed on. sorry to be a bother it seem that ur the only one that replies to my posts and 9 times out of 10 your there till i fix it with 100% effectiveness i feel i owe u alot or at least a coffee or timmy's donut

02-22-2012, 08:48 AM	#6
RyanDronsfield Stock Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: BC Posts: 20	hay got it to work yay me now it gose flash....flash that means code 11 right ?

02-22-2012, 08:56 AM	#7
RyanDronsfield Stock Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: BC Posts: 20	EEEEEEKKKKKKK sounds bad and major. Code 11 Momentary interruption in power supply to ECU (electronic control unit or computer) up to 1991 what dose that mean?????

02-22-2012, 11:40 AM	#9
forgedoil Stock Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: CA Posts: 1	my 88 NA Supra, whenever I accelerate full throttle, like entering a fwy, it "bogs"/Putters" when the motor reaches 4200 rpms. I dont have any codes. What could this be? I recall once forgetting to put the dipstick in the dipstick tube and the car motor would stall at a stop light, once i put the dipstick in the dipstick tube it ceased doing that. With that being said; I noticed the dipstick tube housing was loose and easily came off. So I put silicone around the rim that enters the motor and the seal slightly improved the puttering upon full throttle acceleration but the car still putters" and gets stuck" at around 4200 rpms...???