Originally Posted by cre (Post 101243)

The swap would be a bandaid, nothing more... You still wouldn't have fixed the real problem. Unless you've got the heater running on full and the headlights on you shouldn't see it dim significantly when you step on the brakes... a little isn't surprising. Start with the basics first (It's MUCH cheaper too). Regardless of the voltage you're seeing you should take the battery to a shop for a complete battery test (charge/discharge); It takes about an hour so you'll need to drop it off. There are home chargers which have testers built in, the method and accuracy with which they test varies significantly so I would read reviews and don't cheap out. IMPORTANT!!! If you have an AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) battery do NOT connect it to any charger which does not specifically have a setting for AGM!

The only time I really recommend a larger alternator is if the electrical load has been significantly increased placing demands on the charging system well beyond the original specs; Huge amplifier, electrical fan conversion, electrical cabin heater or an old battery with a bad cell or two. The only other time I'd consider it is if it's a city car where it sees lots of short trips and the battery probably isn't charging enough.... My wife goes through about a battery a year if I don't keep on it with a charger every few weeks.

No, the MR-2 isn't a straight swap in but I think it was close... Something like swapping the pulleys, maybe the wiring pigtail and a washer.

I highly suggest you fix the real problem though. A larger alternator still may not remedy the symptoms.

Originally Posted by Blindedlegacy (Post 101252)

i replaced the sending unit for the gauge and it still slowly goes to running hot.

Originally Posted by Blindedlegacy (Post 101252)

I would also (very seldom) see my oil press gauge move, hasnt worked since i got the car.

Originally Posted by Blindedlegacy (Post 101252)

so do you think it might be a ecu problem or wiring harness issue because i found this

Originally Posted by cre (Post 101259)

I may have missed something because I have no idea what you're talking about here. Please elaborate.



The oil pressure gauge has only one wire running to the sender on the engine which is a variable ground of sorts. It gets it's power from the same circuit as the other dash components so if the dash lights light up and the tachometer works then the problem with the oil pressure gauge is most likely: a bad wire, a bad sender, unplugged or the engine is not well grounded.



No, the problem is inconsistent with a bad ECU. The two wires bolted together should be obvious... Look at the fusebox lid and the fusible link that's missing probably where they're supposed to go. Someone was being cheap or trying to bypass a fuse which kept blowing; replace it and see what happens. Replace the yellow wire fusible link while you've got it open just to be sure.

You have the rest of my suggestions for things to start with.