Voltage spikes!!!!
 

Brakes, turn signals, blower motor, electric fans, all of it is causing a sudden voltage spike and I don't even know where to begin it check for it.

Didnt mean to say spike. Its more of a drop. Could this be a bad voltage regulator?

test it with a multimeter aswell as your alternator.
a high output alternator may be the answer.

test your battery as well.

It tested good too
Also the starter

i cant even remember where the regulator is and i cant find it in the manual.
did you test the alternator??

Its on the back of the alternator. And the alternator is putting out 14v

Voltage isn't an absolute diagnosis. I'd pull the alternator apart, check the collars for excess wear and replace the brushes. At idle the electrical system may run at a deficit due to the small size of the alternator and age of the overall system... It's a fairly common complaint and the battery should compensate for the most part. Some people swap in an alternator from a turbo MR-2 which is 100A or 110A... I think it's just 100A (I'd go look at mine but it's hell to get at on the MR-2.

Another thing which can cause headache is old style, wire type fusible which have begun to degrade. These were used regularly up until 87 or 88 and then intermittently (until Toyota ran out I guess) into even 90's models. If you look in the engine compartment fuse box and the 100A fusible link doesn't look like a large plastic fuse but rather just a large piece of wire you should try replacing it with a new one (you can use a sealed style one, it bolts right in).

Then just start pulling and cleaning all of the major cable connections.

there you are to save the day. i have a little bit more info. when i press the brakes it goes down to 12v but after that initial drop if i were to press it again it BARELY moves. every other electrical load is similar. now if i do swap in that alternator will it fit in or do i have to do some fabrications and what year mr2

The swap would be a bandaid, nothing more... You still wouldn't have fixed the real problem. Unless you've got the heater running on full and the headlights on you shouldn't see it dim significantly when you step on the brakes... a little isn't surprising. Start with the basics first (It's MUCH cheaper too). Regardless of the voltage you're seeing you should take the battery to a shop for a complete battery test (charge/discharge); It takes about an hour so you'll need to drop it off. There are home chargers which have testers built in, the method and accuracy with which they test varies significantly so I would read reviews and don't cheap out. IMPORTANT!!! If you have an AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) battery do NOT connect it to any charger which does not specifically have a setting for AGM!

The only time I really recommend a larger alternator is if the electrical load has been significantly increased placing demands on the charging system well beyond the original specs; Huge amplifier, electrical fan conversion, electrical cabin heater or an old battery with a bad cell or two. The only other time I'd consider it is if it's a city car where it sees lots of short trips and the battery probably isn't charging enough.... My wife goes through about a battery a year if I don't keep on it with a charger every few weeks.

No, the MR-2 isn't a straight swap in but I think it was close... Something like swapping the pulleys, maybe the wiring pigtail and a washer.

I highly suggest you fix the real problem though. A larger alternator still may not remedy the symptoms.

i cleans up the grounds and everything and still the same thing. i replaced the sending unit for the gauge and it still slowly goes to running hot. i would also (very seldom) see my oil press gauge move, hasnt worked since i got the car. so do you think it might be a ecu problem or wiring harness issue because i found this http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...75735697_n.jpghttp://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...78747380_n.jpg

I may have missed something because I have no idea what you're talking about here. Please elaborate.

The oil pressure gauge has only one wire running to the sender on the engine which is a variable ground of sorts. It gets it's power from the same circuit as the other dash components so if the dash lights light up and the tachometer works then the problem with the oil pressure gauge is most likely: a bad wire, a bad sender, unplugged or the engine is not well grounded.

No, the problem is inconsistent with a bad ECU. The two wires bolted together should be obvious... Look at the fusebox lid and the fusible link that's missing probably where they're supposed to go. Someone was being cheap or trying to bypass a fuse which kept blowing; replace it and see what happens. Replace the yellow wire fusible link while you've got it open just to be sure.

You have the rest of my suggestions for things to start with.

I take that back. The bolted together wires should bolt to the 100A Fusible Link (the Yellow wire)! Replace the yellow wire with a new FL (either another wire one or a sealed unit) and bolt the wires back where they belong. I didn't realize that nothing was running to the 100A FL but I did notice the wire colors were wrong for the ABS circuit... that'd be Blue and Black I believe. I assume you don't have ABS then.

the coolant sending unit i just replaced it because it was always reading hot and the new one does the same thing.

and the oil pressure is connected to anything.

i saw a fusebox wiring harness for about 120 i think. you suggest i get that instead because who ever had that car before me is an idiot because there are custom jobs all over that place.