Crazy thing happened, now car won't start - Page 2

cre · 03-07-2012, 04:56 AM

The CPS, while sharing a housing with the distributor/points system, does not share any direct circuits. Power surges though the primary tension line isn't going to affect the CPS' performance much less damage it.

The ECU won't get a signal from the CPS when the engine is off or register any codes for it because it knows it won't get one if the engine isn't running. The engineers who programmed it are brighter than this.

You may have a bad ignition coil AND a bad distributor, but they are not mutually inclusive.

The infinity reading of the ignition coil's secondary coil is bad and yes, that should be replaced.

Did you test the coils at the ends where the pigtail ends inside the housing? Bad wiring or a poor connection between the probes and contacts will skew any measurements you take from the CPS/distributor. Yes, those measurements are a bit high but they're only likely to cause performance issues and not crippling misfiring. If the wiring is the problem it would be much more cost effective to patch the harness as needed and adjust the pickup spacing and keep looking to see if there are any greater problems first. Also, most replacement distributors include o-rings, a rotor and a cap.

Time between tests means nothing unless you're measuring circuits with significant capacitance.... OR the testing conditions are dependent upon temperature. Some faults are temperature specific and if you notice an issue more often under one condition or another it will help to test under similar conditions (even if it means testing a part with a hair dryer blowing on it for 15 minutes.... been there done that).

I don't know why you've got a voltage regulator on there. If you suspect the alternator then tear it apart and measure everything... the regulator is less often to blame than other components.

essial · 04-05-2012, 08:54 PM

Sorry to revive a dead thread. But in case anyone else runs into this problem. I finally, after a month, got in a new distributor (and the cap and stuff). After resetting the CPU and giving the car a few minutes to get to know the new part, I drove it around and it ran smooth as butter!

pandrade · 04-06-2012, 03:14 PM

always good to find the answer to a thread lol even if it may be old

03-07-2012, 04:56 AM	#11
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	The CPS, while sharing a housing with the distributor/points system, does not share any direct circuits. Power surges though the primary tension line isn't going to affect the CPS' performance much less damage it. The ECU won't get a signal from the CPS when the engine is off or register any codes for it because it knows it won't get one if the engine isn't running. The engineers who programmed it are brighter than this. You may have a bad ignition coil AND a bad distributor, but they are not mutually inclusive. The infinity reading of the ignition coil's secondary coil is bad and yes, that should be replaced. Did you test the coils at the ends where the pigtail ends inside the housing? Bad wiring or a poor connection between the probes and contacts will skew any measurements you take from the CPS/distributor. Yes, those measurements are a bit high but they're only likely to cause performance issues and not crippling misfiring. If the wiring is the problem it would be much more cost effective to patch the harness as needed and adjust the pickup spacing and keep looking to see if there are any greater problems first. Also, most replacement distributors include o-rings, a rotor and a cap. Time between tests means nothing unless you're measuring circuits with significant capacitance.... OR the testing conditions are dependent upon temperature. Some faults are temperature specific and if you notice an issue more often under one condition or another it will help to test under similar conditions (even if it means testing a part with a hair dryer blowing on it for 15 minutes.... been there done that). I don't know why you've got a voltage regulator on there. If you suspect the alternator then tear it apart and measure everything... the regulator is less often to blame than other components. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

04-06-2012, 03:14 PM	#13
pandrade 12psi boost Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: fort myers florida Posts: 345	always good to find the answer to a thread lol even if it may be old __________________ 1987 7m-gte R-154, SS braided clutch line, full 3in exshaust,aluminum radiator,full throttle gen 2 whith GM 3 inch mass air flow,13lbs flywheel, and more to come

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04-05-2012, 08:54 PM	#12
essial Stock Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Hephzibah, GA Posts: 15	Sorry to revive a dead thread. But in case anyone else runs into this problem. I finally, after a month, got in a new distributor (and the cap and stuff). After resetting the CPU and giving the car a few minutes to get to know the new part, I drove it around and it ran smooth as butter!