Turbo drain oil pump

[Sonyps307]

Ok so I have a rebuild 7mge with forged rods and pistons and I would like to turbo it. But I don't want to remove the motor or drop the oil pan to add a drain. So I found a company called sts turbos and they make turbo kits that replace the muffle under the car and run all the oil lines all the way to the back of the car. So on the return line it has a oil pump push the oil all the way back up to the motor. So what I'm wondering is if I can run the stock ct26 set up and on the drain run it to the pump then to where the stock oil cooler goes.

Oil pumps
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm


Sts turbos
http://www.ststurbo.com/

[cre]

I'm not sure I follow completely. You can run an independent dry sump for the turbo if you wish... it's inefficient and a waste of space but it's not going to kill you. You should run it through a small cooler, but you may be able to make use of the oil/water cooler used on the 2JZ, 3S or 5S to help simplify things and to avoid having to worry about the placement of another rail cooler.

I do not understand what you're saying about the stock cooler. If you run a separate pump for the turbo then you can not mate it to the stock system. The stock oil cooler's drain sits at (and often below) the oil level... If you drain the turbo's oil there and it gets covered pressure will backup and build in the turbo often killing the oil seals right then and there.

And I have no idea what STS' turbo kits have to do with any of this.


EDIT: I suppose I should explain that the oil to water cooler is a sandwich plate adapter which mounts to the oil filter boss on the block, is screwed in place and the oil filter mounts to it. Google 2JZ oil cooler or MR2 oil cooler and you're sure to find photos.

[Sonyps307]

I talking about running the oil drain to the electric oil pump then to the hole that is already in my Oil pan that the 7mgte use as the cooler return. I'm going to use the inline oil pump to pull the oil out the turbo then push it into the pan. I think that the oil pump should be able to push the oil in the pan weather the hole is covered by oil or not. I was talking about the sts turbos because they use the pumps to get the oil out of the turbo mounted in the rear of the car back to the motor.

[cre]

That's not going to work at all. The turbo uses such a small volume of oil and the minimum amount of pull you'd get from a pump is a LOT higher. It would pull the oil pressure and volume down to virtually nil in a second. The drain really does need to be passive, free-flowing and as much of a vertical drop as possible. The oil pump is also going to require that there's enough volume to keep the pump lubricated.

Your solution is going to be much harder to work out and implement than lifting the engine 4 inches to pull the oil pan.


When you finally give to the light don't forget that the return on the pan needs to be fairly precise and must point at a main cap so less oil it thrown at it as will be the case if it's facing a rod. And as high up as possible (I've managed to get them in at about 1/8" from the lip).

[Sonyps307]

Ok well if I going to remove the pan I was going to just order a new pan from driftmotion with the turbo drain in it so I can just swap and then start put it back together. As for dropping the Pan I don't have to drop the k-member like the book says right.

[cre]

You may lift the engine... it's as much work either way. If you don't have access to a lift lifting the engine is a little easier. You still have to disconnect a fair amount of stuff.

Yes, having a pan ready will definitely speed things up. It's something I always try for but with some less common engines you can just forget it. If the guys at DM put it together then I trust the drain is properly located... but I'd still double check when fitting it. If you putting in your own drain the remember what I said about placement.

[pandrade]

at the risk of sounding like captin obviouse defender of the already known, wouldent it just be much simpler droping a 7m-gte and save yourself the trouble?

[cre]

It would be preferable, but if the compression's been reduced and the internals are forged there's little gain to be had from the presence of oil squirters. The main benefits here to a GTE vs a GE-T with those changes made are: oil cooling, different intake cam, high volume oil pump (which I REALLY hope he already installed), turbo oil drain nice and high and drilled in the block, GTE thermostat neck with cooling for the turbo..... oh screw it... there's a crap load still to be done. I'm not going to get into it this time though... feel free if you must.

[pandrade]

I my self occosonaly still over look the faq's and the search tool but this is a gte vs conversion build thread all over again which pop's up instantly on the search and there's a alot of results, I bet your tired of explaining it Cre but I'm going to try to sum up this very old debate, just drop in a 7m-gte much easier and more sence but if your already doing the converton good luck and hope it goes well for you.

Oh and btw there's alot of stuff you'll still need to do but for all the trouble you would go through you'd be better of just getting an already turbo motor

If you see something that I'm off on please let me know so I can not say it later

[cre]

This thread isn't about the ups and downs of a GE-T build. Sony's been here more than long enough to know the risks and he has invested more into his 7M than many MKIII owners do. Hopefully, turbocharging was a consideration in that build... Either way whether he chooses to operate based on the experiences of those before him and has prepared accordingly or ignore that and follow the long line of the "I'll be the exception" fraternity is his decision. BTW - I'm a former member of that fraternity.... I've put holes through too many pistons in the past. This is a thread asking for specific information and he's welcome to it.

Sony, I must admit that I am curious about the specific of your build. Care to share more details?