F@#cking SMOG

[Joefishizzle]

Man all I have to say is fuck California.

Also is there a way to test the 7MGE afm to see if the values are good? All I've found is the GTE. My shit failed this morning with high CO and HC, NOx was good .......

[cre]

Sure, it's in the TSRM. There are links to online versions in the FAQ section, but here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/

Any diagnostic codes stored in the ECU?

[Joefishizzle]

Nope ECU is clean and clear. Last year the previous owner replaced the cat and o2 sensor. I've done plugs, fuel filter, valve cover gasket

[cre]

Cali spec has two O2 sensors. Is the EGR system intact? Are you sure the cat was replaced? Have you checked both mechanical and ignition timing? Test the plug wires, inspect the cap and rotor and as you mentioned, yes, test the AFM.

[btwilson86]

And also make sure the cat was replaced with the correct one. Grab the part number off of it and make sure it's a Cali spec cat (not federal). If you have to replace it, be sure you buy the correct one. Cali requires any cat on any car that gets replaced must be with an obd2 cat. I'd probably stay away from buying one online, as I'm sure many people are probably trying to sell their old stock of cats that are no longer Cali compliant

[Joefishizzle]

ya i have the paper work for the shop repair, its a certified smog repair station and have the smog from them as well. however im not sure if it was dirty of not. i think im gonna just get a dirty smog and deal with it later.

theres a number of reasons it could have failed i believe
-i replaced the battery and drove it there the following day...im not sure if this system is a learning system or not
-that morning i drove straight there so the car might have been cold, maybe it was cramming more fuel down in the cold weather? i know my other car does that alot(rotary)


i cant tell if its a stock cat.....its new i can see that but they welded it on so yeah. i need to check the timing and cap and rotor. however the car runs great. EGR is intact, only thing is its hard starting but i believe its the cold start time/temp. after the second kick she turns on strong. usually in the cold she rumbles to get to idle for a few seconds.

[DawgB0]

Aw dude everybody knows that you suppose to make it go to opr temp then drive it for extra 20 mins, add booster ocance addtive and fill gas up to half tank then you should be able to pass and when did you change oil? If 2k ago then do it now will help.

[Joefishizzle]

Yeah that's what I figure is going on. Im gonna change the coolant temp sensor and go again for a free retest. If it fails after that then screw it. I'll just do a dirty.

I changed my oil the day before the smog check lol

[Joefishizzle]

Cre or anyone else knowledgeable, I tested the afm per the link you gave me. My resistance is no where near those values. There supposed to be 200-400 or 200-600, I read only 60 on one and 84 on the other. Am I doing something wrong or is my afm toast?

[cre]

Originally Posted by Joefishizzle

Cre or anyone else knowledgeable, I tested the afm per the link you gave me. My resistance is no where near those values. There supposed to be 200-400 or 200-600, I read only 60 on one and 84 on the other. Am I doing something wrong or is my afm toast?

The easier and more reliable way to test the VAFM (Vane Air Flow Meter) is to test the output voltage at the Vs input on the ECU harness. With the ignition "ON" but the engine off you should see a scale from ~.5v to ~4.8v as the vane is slowly opened from full closed to full open (or the other way around... :P ). Then test the temp sensor's resistance as specified in the manual.

The VAFM is a wear component unlike the GTE's KVAFM. There's a rheostat inside and the wiper and pad wear out over time as they're constantly moving. Watch for significant "flat spots" where the voltage changes less with the movement of the vane than it does elsewhere... These generally occur where the vane is less than 40% open as this is where the vane spends most of its time during normal operation.

Have you checked the ignition timing yet? Running great doesn't mean it's running optimally for peak performance or emissions compliance. Increasing the base timing a few degrees will have more effect than adding an octane booster (complete waste of money and if overdone can make your test results worse). Just don't go too far with the timing... As you increase the spark advance the NOx will increase while the others drop a bit. If you go too far though you may cause a significant amount of ping which will cause the ECU to retard timing and add a lot more fuel.