issues

[Dues Ex Machina]

most of this stuff has probably been discussed somewhere before but im new to this forum and would appreciate it if you guys would point me in the right direction.

i have an 88 supra non turbo, ive had it for about 2 months or so maybe more. ever since i got it, it has a stalling problem. at first not very often. then started getting worse and would stall at every light. i took it to a mechanic and they couldnt figure it out, he said he rewired the idle control sensor but thats about it. it improved slightly but still wld stall. i then took it to another guy who claims to know older engines and he said he tweaked it a bit. said the timing was way way advanced, the cold start injector wasnt connected and lowered idle a bit. it ran way better, still the occasional stall never the less. anyway now for some reason my car on the way home flicked a couple lights on the dash and died as i stopped in my driveway. i thought it was weird so i tried to turn it on again and it cranked really slow and didnt start. tried again and it cranked really slow again then made the famous battery dead clicking noise. i tried again and it still cranked slow but managed to turn on but now it doesnt seem to want to stay running unless i give it gas. voltometer on dash reads lower on acc. and slightly lower when running. i bought a new battery at autozone because they said it was no good and now a battery later still the same. any ideas?

sorry for the long post just thought u guys needed to know the details.


Also, I tried the alternator test where I pull the pos lead from battery while car is running and it stayed running...

[Dues Ex Machina]

Anyone? Any help is appreciated

[btwilson86]

I had a 87 N/A auto that used to stall out at lights, turned out to be a combination of vacuum leaks, vacuum lines routed improperly, and a TPS out of adjustment. I'd check those 3, in that order. I'd also get that alternator load tested, because that sounds like it could be part of your dying problem. Also make sure your battery connections are tight and corrosion free

[Dues Ex Machina]

Originally Posted by btwilson86

I had a 87 N/A auto that used to stall out at lights, turned out to be a combination of vacuum leaks, vacuum lines routed improperly, and a TPS out of adjustment. I'd check those 3, in that order. I'd also get that alternator load tested, because that sounds like it could be part of your dying problem. Also make sure your battery connections are tight and corrosion free

I see yeah I thought vacuum lines might be off but the sticker under good for diagram was unreadable and I'm.having a hard time locating all of the lines using the tsrm... also, I think the vsv is missing it was in the glove box does that impact performance? How would a noob like me go about setting the tps right? Thanks for the help
as for the alternator, the test I did doesn't prove that its functioning right? How would o test it for sure?

[btwilson86]

Well, the test you did with the alternator does prove that it works enough to let the car idle. But a load test will make sure it's providing the amount of power it's designed to output. There's a link in the TSRM that tells you how to check and calibrate the tps using an ohmmeter and feeler gauges. Should be in the efi system/throttle body section.

The TSRM will cover nearly all of the emissions system vacuum lines. Missing a vsv will likely cause performance issues, you should find out which one it is and reinstall it

[Dues Ex Machina]

Alright so, we were tweaking with the car it seems like the voltometer on the car is now where it should be and it cranks like normal now. We tightened the little bar connecting the throttle to the engine. Idk what its called its a little bar. It was loose giving some play and slightly raised idle. But its weird. We got it to idle at 800rpm however sometimes when accelerating then letting off gas it'll drop to 600 or so rpm. Now every once and a while it'll manage to die. Sometimes though if the ac is on it'll idle at around 1000 rpm that may be normal but it seems a little high. It'll go down to 750ish as well after letting off gas. I guess ill make sure vacuum lines are good and find out about the vsv after that ill check the alternator and the tps

[Green7mgte]

did you see what codes are stored? did you check the tsrm trouble shooting flow chart?

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=FI&P=14

[Dues Ex Machina]

Originally Posted by Green7mgte

did you see what codes are stored? did you check the tsrm trouble shooting flow chart?

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=FI&P=14

I haven't checked the codes yet. check engine light isn't on so I didn't think about checking them. will check them anyways soon and see if it throws any. yeah I checked it. the symptoms that I had it said to check vacuum lines. as far as I can tell vacuum lines are fine except for vsv missing. the one on drivers side on the bottom side of engine.

also, since we changed battery and tweaked idle and tightened that bar going to the throttle, it feels like it runs stronger. it used to feel sluggish

[Green7mgte]

the light doesn't necessarily stay on.. give it a check man.

[Dues Ex Machina]

fixed, turned out that the alternator was dead and i had air intake leaks fixed that and runs good now doesnt stall
only thing is that itll idle funny, like when i stop itll idle at around 700 and then slowly climb to around 900 where it stays. then i give it gas and again itll go back to 700ish and climb slowly to 900
not a big deal just something i noticed