Bosch, Aeromotive, Supra MKIV TT would probably be my top 3 choices. I don't have a problem with Walbro, they can just be a bit loud and the concern regarding getting a genuine unit exists. It's not individual shops who do the counterfeiting, it's further down the supply chain so they may not even know.

Also, remember some of them (the knock-offs) flow fine and some live long, healthy lives, I'm just warning you to be careful because of their significant failure rate. Really, if they were just as good and reliable I don't think it would have caused nearly as much of a stir. I don't know how many there are still floating out there as this is a story which broke quite some time ago, but as long as there are suckers out there looking to be suckered I'd bet there are still a decent number getting filtered into the retail market.

That's the main issue with Chinese copy stuff, a lot of it is directly copied from the genuine article & nothing wrong with the actual design per-se, it's the quality control that's lax so far & as you say some are no doubt still flowing away happily, their owners smug for the great deal they got on a "Walbro pump" but would you want to chance it...

Personally, as in my other recent thread, I quite like the savings you can make on knock-off Chinese kit with care and luck & have had some good stuff (most recently a nice "Fluke" multimeter for ?20) and am considering some chinky 1600cc injectors from Ebay as they're about the same price as new "real" 440's and COULD be O.K. & would be all the injector I'd ever need for a big power build in future, but if I did get them I'd be doing some serious stripping, measuring, soaking in 10% ethanol fuel & having flow rates tested etc before use!

Anyway sorry for rambling, perhaps the best budget option for ochowdero could be a used JZA80 TT pump?

Great! i also did that.
i just found a venue that deals with performance whether it be for drifting, racing and strictly drag. so i am going to check em out. see if theyre even reliable.

CRE-i completely understand that. i thank you haha. one because i didnt really know that. and two, i need this kind of information. i dont plan on leaving much loose ends in this build to have engine errors. granted there will still be some but i want to limit serious issues and fuel, is a HUGE thing you should never go cheap on.

im doing alot of research on some stuff. and i wanted to bring up injectors since were on the fuel subject. MA70 you have had a recent thread on 1600cc haha.
for around 400hp is 550cc injectors necessary? i guess the real question is. is that more then enough or just enough?

yeah I can imagine those 1.6liter bad boys would make low-end/idle non existent & require a donkey engine for hot starts haha...

I'm not sure exactly how much of the 550cc injectors you'd "use" to reach 400whp but I was getting occasional fuel cut at 11-12psi on the stock 440's so you'd certainly need to upgrade. As to whether 550 would be more than enough or just enough I don't really know but cre will :o

"which engine is the best..."
 

I have a similar question as "ochowdero" in "which engine is the best engine for little money, fast, durable?". Thanks for starting this thread and those who provided answers, namely MA70-3.0GT and CRE.

My baby is an '89 Metal-flake Gray, Turbo, Targa, 126K miles. Body and Interior are immaculate; the 7MGTE engine is tired, burns some oil and recently suffered the BHG issue.
I was thinking about swapping out the 7MGTE with the 2JZGTE-ct12b, but this thread convinced me not to go that route.
My question now is where to find a solid, remanufactured engine (Long Block). The Toyota dealer wants 3,700.00, a local, parts distributor (Houston, TX) wants 2,600.00. I have talked to other parts distributors on the Internet, which generally have used engines for anywhere from 1,100.00 to 2,000.00.
The money is not an issue, as I know I will need to add about 800.00 to 1,000.00 for the missing pieces the Long-Block does not come with.
Does anybody have a referral for a engine distributor that is honest, fair, and stands by their products? Preferrably, someone that you have done business with.
Are there any recommendations for extras that I can do or add to this project during the motor install? I’d like to bump the performance up (today I am at stock, except a K&N air filter, 3in down-pipe, hi-flow cat & 3in exhaust). I am thinking perhaps a waste-gate by-pass valve, maybe a new Turbo, hi-performance intercooler. Any suggestions are appreciated, and please provide an referral to a reputable performance distributor to make these purchases (“Stillin” is excessive in cost!).
This is my second ’89 T&T, and I have loved the ride since 1994.
Thank a lot.

Ochowdero - Please Read
 

Outstanding article!! Thanks for the referral. Great folllow-up links as well

Thanks for the vote of confidence.... IRL, I'm actually a complete idiot.

Yes, you can get 400RWHP out of 550's. I think the following should get you there... You'd skip the Lex AFM. You'll need a good fuel controller and possibly an FCD. You do not have to eliminate fuel cut entirely with most FCDs. I don't usually recommend them as if you screw up you could melt a hole through a piston or burn valves when you really push it. 550's are enough though, you're not really asking a whole lot more than you can get out of the 550/Lex combo under ideal conditions (which is as much as 350 and in a couple rare cases a tiny bit over). An adjustable fuel pressure regulator, upgraded CT-26 and better intercooler would REALLY help.

ochowdero:

I am going through a similiar decision-making process as you are with regards to my '89 turbo-charged 7MGTE. My current motor has a BHG and smoe oil burn. I have not opened up the motor, so I am not sure if the latter is due to rings or valve-guide seals. The mortor has 126K miles, and I do not drive it hard, in fact I only drive about 5,000 mi per year since 2007. So rings should nt be the issue.

I decided to swap out this motor for a JDM - 7MGTE. I will have my old block for reasonable price, if you are interested. Let me know.

Oil burning could also be from the BHG & to be honest likely is just that if it didn't smoke before.

If it was smoking anyway, valve guides/stem seals usually cause a puff of smoke on startup & a little trail while decelerating from high revs on closed throttle, bores/rings (or turbo seals don't forget, puddles in your intercooler & 3000 pipe?) would be more likely to cause more constant smoke even when accelerating or running for a while.