03-20-2013, 06:01 PM | #41 |
Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
|
Bosch, Aeromotive, Supra MKIV TT would probably be my top 3 choices. I don't have a problem with Walbro, they can just be a bit loud and the concern regarding getting a genuine unit exists. It's not individual shops who do the counterfeiting, it's further down the supply chain so they may not even know.
Also, remember some of them (the knock-offs) flow fine and some live long, healthy lives, I'm just warning you to be careful because of their significant failure rate. Really, if they were just as good and reliable I don't think it would have caused nearly as much of a stir. I don't know how many there are still floating out there as this is a story which broke quite some time ago, but as long as there are suckers out there looking to be suckered I'd bet there are still a decent number getting filtered into the retail market.
__________________
If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar ---> |
03-20-2013, 09:22 PM | #42 | |
12psi boost
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Crewe, England
Posts: 356
|
Quote:
Personally, as in my other recent thread, I quite like the savings you can make on knock-off Chinese kit with care and luck & have had some good stuff (most recently a nice "Fluke" multimeter for ?20) and am considering some chinky 1600cc injectors from Ebay as they're about the same price as new "real" 440's and COULD be O.K. & would be all the injector I'd ever need for a big power build in future, but if I did get them I'd be doing some serious stripping, measuring, soaking in 10% ethanol fuel & having flow rates tested etc before use! Anyway sorry for rambling, perhaps the best budget option for ochowdero could be a used JZA80 TT pump?
__________________
'89 MA70 Supra GT aero 3.0turbo JDM, Rebuilt motor, K&N intake, 3" stainless turbo-back. New turbo and braided line kit... '89 Honda NC27 400, NC23 cams, open pipe, PC36a shock & possibly Showa USD forks... '83 Yamaha 29R XJ750E-II, number 69 off the line, only runner in the country? Original except Koni shocks '95 Honda PC26 CB500R, Winter hack, hateful, trying to sell it I'm not paranoid, they really ARE after me!!! |
|
03-21-2013, 02:42 AM | #43 | |
12psi boost
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: California
Posts: 277
|
Quote:
i just found a venue that deals with performance whether it be for drifting, racing and strictly drag. so i am going to check em out. see if theyre even reliable. CRE-i completely understand that. i thank you haha. one because i didnt really know that. and two, i need this kind of information. i dont plan on leaving much loose ends in this build to have engine errors. granted there will still be some but i want to limit serious issues and fuel, is a HUGE thing you should never go cheap on. im doing alot of research on some stuff. and i wanted to bring up injectors since were on the fuel subject. MA70 you have had a recent thread on 1600cc haha. for around 400hp is 550cc injectors necessary? i guess the real question is. is that more then enough or just enough?
__________________
1987 supra, BLUE 7mge.. AUTO TO MANUAL SWAP.. i really want turbo |
|
03-21-2013, 11:09 AM | #44 |
12psi boost
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Crewe, England
Posts: 356
|
yeah I can imagine those 1.6liter bad boys would make low-end/idle non existent & require a donkey engine for hot starts haha...
I'm not sure exactly how much of the 550cc injectors you'd "use" to reach 400whp but I was getting occasional fuel cut at 11-12psi on the stock 440's so you'd certainly need to upgrade. As to whether 550 would be more than enough or just enough I don't really know but cre will
__________________
'89 MA70 Supra GT aero 3.0turbo JDM, Rebuilt motor, K&N intake, 3" stainless turbo-back. New turbo and braided line kit... '89 Honda NC27 400, NC23 cams, open pipe, PC36a shock & possibly Showa USD forks... '83 Yamaha 29R XJ750E-II, number 69 off the line, only runner in the country? Original except Koni shocks '95 Honda PC26 CB500R, Winter hack, hateful, trying to sell it I'm not paranoid, they really ARE after me!!! |
03-21-2013, 08:47 PM | #45 |
Stock
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 9
|
"which engine is the best..."
I have a similar question as "ochowdero" in "which engine is the best engine for little money, fast, durable?". Thanks for starting this thread and those who provided answers, namely MA70-3.0GT and CRE.
My baby is an '89 Metal-flake Gray, Turbo, Targa, 126K miles. Body and Interior are immaculate; the 7MGTE engine is tired, burns some oil and recently suffered the BHG issue. I was thinking about swapping out the 7MGTE with the 2JZGTE-ct12b, but this thread convinced me not to go that route. My question now is where to find a solid, remanufactured engine (Long Block). The Toyota dealer wants 3,700.00, a local, parts distributor (Houston, TX) wants 2,600.00. I have talked to other parts distributors on the Internet, which generally have used engines for anywhere from 1,100.00 to 2,000.00. The money is not an issue, as I know I will need to add about 800.00 to 1,000.00 for the missing pieces the Long-Block does not come with. Does anybody have a referral for a engine distributor that is honest, fair, and stands by their products? Preferrably, someone that you have done business with. Are there any recommendations for extras that I can do or add to this project during the motor install? I’d like to bump the performance up (today I am at stock, except a K&N air filter, 3in down-pipe, hi-flow cat & 3in exhaust). I am thinking perhaps a waste-gate by-pass valve, maybe a new Turbo, hi-performance intercooler. Any suggestions are appreciated, and please provide an referral to a reputable performance distributor to make these purchases (“Stillin” is excessive in cost!). This is my second ’89 T&T, and I have loved the ride since 1994. Thank a lot. |
03-21-2013, 10:15 PM | #46 | |
Stock
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 9
|
Ochowdero - Please Read
Quote:
|
|
03-23-2013, 07:15 PM | #47 | |
Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
|
Quote:
Yes, you can get 400RWHP out of 550's. I think the following should get you there... You'd skip the Lex AFM. You'll need a good fuel controller and possibly an FCD. You do not have to eliminate fuel cut entirely with most FCDs. I don't usually recommend them as if you screw up you could melt a hole through a piston or burn valves when you really push it. 550's are enough though, you're not really asking a whole lot more than you can get out of the 550/Lex combo under ideal conditions (which is as much as 350 and in a couple rare cases a tiny bit over). An adjustable fuel pressure regulator, upgraded CT-26 and better intercooler would REALLY help.
__________________
If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar ---> |
|
04-01-2013, 09:32 AM | #48 | |
Stock
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 9
|
Quote:
I am going through a similiar decision-making process as you are with regards to my '89 turbo-charged 7MGTE. My current motor has a BHG and smoe oil burn. I have not opened up the motor, so I am not sure if the latter is due to rings or valve-guide seals. The mortor has 126K miles, and I do not drive it hard, in fact I only drive about 5,000 mi per year since 2007. So rings should nt be the issue. I decided to swap out this motor for a JDM - 7MGTE. I will have my old block for reasonable price, if you are interested. Let me know. |
|
04-03-2013, 12:24 PM | #49 |
12psi boost
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Crewe, England
Posts: 356
|
Oil burning could also be from the BHG & to be honest likely is just that if it didn't smoke before.
If it was smoking anyway, valve guides/stem seals usually cause a puff of smoke on startup & a little trail while decelerating from high revs on closed throttle, bores/rings (or turbo seals don't forget, puddles in your intercooler & 3000 pipe?) would be more likely to cause more constant smoke even when accelerating or running for a while.
__________________
'89 MA70 Supra GT aero 3.0turbo JDM, Rebuilt motor, K&N intake, 3" stainless turbo-back. New turbo and braided line kit... '89 Honda NC27 400, NC23 cams, open pipe, PC36a shock & possibly Showa USD forks... '83 Yamaha 29R XJ750E-II, number 69 off the line, only runner in the country? Original except Koni shocks '95 Honda PC26 CB500R, Winter hack, hateful, trying to sell it I'm not paranoid, they really ARE after me!!! |
Tags |
1jzgte, 2jzgte, 7mgte, money, swap |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Putting JDM engine in!!! :D | dannydavi | MKIII Supra | 24 | 11-02-2009 06:30 AM |
rebuilt hard to crank (high engine resistance); need advice | cbrewster | MKIII Supra | 4 | 09-28-2009 04:52 PM |
problem seperating engine from manual tranny | Gengus | MKIII Supra | 7 | 01-29-2008 12:10 AM |
how fast should my engine use up its oil? | sd88supra | MKIII Supra | 10 | 03-25-2006 03:21 AM |