which engine is the best engine for little money, fast, durable?
 

I currently have a 87 supra NA 7mge 5 speed.
it runs decent, but i am going to replace some parts and get it up to standard. BUT
my only concern is that I dont want to replace parts that i cant transfer over. I plan on working on a seperate engine and build it up and get ready for install. which engine? idk.. ive searched the forums and am sure there is a thread on this topic but cant seem to find it. you can re direct me if you want.

which engine is the best engine for little money, fast, durable?!

this is what i want for my car: Daily for now. fast, cheap and reliable. when i mean fast, i mean have some decent kick that will put most cars to the test. 400hp maybe?
i have money and will invest money but dont want to go broke. thats where i have no clue on what engine to do. 2j, 1j, 7m?
i want to maintain my current engine til i get another engine(?which idk?) but dnt want to waste money replacing parts.

in an unbiased opinion on engines can you help another fellow out on deciding without hurting his pocket book?

i ask this question because now a days people are all about the 2jzgte.
you spend $1000 to $3000 on the engine maybe turbo uprade, fuel system, blah blah blah..
thats alot of money even though the 2jz are more "reliable" then the 7m
which is true from factory, and possibly even after builds.
but i know personally that 7m have potential. not sure how the 7m affects the pocket book. or in reality what all these engines affect.

For your goal of 400hp & minimal cost the 7M-GTE is the way to go IMO. you should be able to pick up an otherwise good motor (or ideally complete GTE equipped car for the ECU, loom, KVAFM etc to break & recoup costs) real cheap with a BHG, You'd want to replace that anyway for peace of mind, stock will be fine for 400hp provided you...

Clean everything operating room clean

Have head & block faces checked & possibly skimmed by machine shop (IF the head needs a skim make sure the rear timing cover is fitted too so it doesn't hang up)

Fit a quality head gasket (OEM composite type is fine & less hassle as metal ones require extensive polishing of mating surfaces)

Ensure your head bolts are either in good condition, no thread "galling", or better still replace with new aftermarket bolts or studs. (also clean threads in the block & ensure no dirt/oil in bottom of holes to affect torque readings)

Ensure that whatever fixings you use, they're torqued in the right sequence & to the right spec (this can differ with lubricants too, stock bolts with 10w40 oil is 78lb/ft IIRC but do research and get this step right as the wrong torque is what causes most of the BHGs in the first place.

Once you have the motor buttoned up nicely you can then look into upgraded turbos, injectors etc to get you to that 400 mark.


Although I've over-simplified things here it's not too hard, but really you may ultimately be better off & make things easier getting a turbo car to start with & using yours for parts (I.E. get a runner with shagged trim/bolt on panels etc cheap).

Also to throw another spanner in the works, you may want 400hp, but I ran a stock turbo & injectors and few other minor mods at 12psi and found it was more than quick enough :barf:Can't have been more than 320-340??? and effectively cost nothing, no injectors or bigger turbo :D

This is the exact kind of feedback i was looking for. thank you!

i originally planned to go with the 7mgte because its cheaper and with proper rebuilding and maintenance it can withstand alot of hp. (plus i have a 7mge so a gte swap wouldnt be to hard at all)
im fond of the 7m i love them simply because people think theyre a crap performance engine because of the BHG. i dont want to fall into the 2jz scene purely because of "quick power". i believe reaching a goal of 400hp, if i even want to have that much, is cheaper in the long run with the 7m. am i correct?
people have their opinions and since i never rebuilt these motors before i dont know the difference in cost/power ratio with them.

like you said, with stock components and a kept up or rebuilt 7m with minor turbo upgrades, fuel injectors and others pushing 320!? not bad and im sure you didnt spend to much.

i hope more people hop into this convo, this may help out alot of people with the same questions. and since i couldnt find it on the forum anymore...

The spec is 78 ft lbs when using moly grease. ARP has updated their specs and now specify a higher torque than that. You generally want to use 30 weight oil when lubricating fasteners. I recommend against using a variable viscosity lubricant for critical fasteners.

Swapping in a 2JZ will cost a lot more than swapping in a 7M-GTE and upgrading it for a mere 400RWHP. The 2JZ is cheaper to get 400RWHP out of IF it's already in the car. ;) The 2JZ is more reliable but the 7M can be quite reliable if shortcuts aren't taken and the person doing the work pays close attention to the details. A 7M refreshed to stock conditions, using stock parts can manage 400RWHP pretty reliably. I'd upgrade a few things while the engine was out, naturally, but it doesn't have to be a monster build.

7mgte ARP studs:
Attachment 4777
not sure when they were manufactured but i just used them in a 5mge a week ago. i only went 80 lbs.

What is your budget?

You should know the answer to that:

The MKIII Supra is an amazing vehicle and project car. It's not just a matter of what can be achieved in terms of performance but much more so the vehicle's uncanny ability to detect your total budget and ensure that the cost of ANY project will always exceed that sum by $500 or more. :rofl2:

Cre said it.

i personally havent really set a budget aside. just for the fact itll be a slow process until i can start getting deep into the build. being busy all the time and limited funds as of right now i cant do much but maintain my engine now and get it up to par and maybe mods here and there that are transferable to the 7mgte.
as soon as i know what i want to do with the 7mgte and get a parts lists going of what needs to be done and need for the build i will work a budget and hope that the supra doesnt force me to go over what i want.

to answer your question, a 2jzgte swap with minor mods pushing around 500hp? is about what? $2000-$3000+ ..since im going with the 7mgte, with less then 450hp, id say around half of what i would spend for the 2j.

I'd start with suspension and brake upgrades, then start collecting parts. Some things such as a fuel controller, wideband controller, adjustable FPR and stronger fuel pump may all be installed while still running the N/A and it will give you a chance to learn the fuel controller. You can also install a good oil cooling system on the GE which will still be used on the GTE.

I am currently researching and pricing what it would cost me to do a 1JZ-GTE VVti swap and right now, engine, tranny, ECU with all loose ends, about $3500. I will be doing all of the work, so I save a lot on labor. This engine is a single and NOT a twin like the non-VVTi. Bigger injectors and upping the boost and I will be near or at the 400hp mark. All of that without opening up the engine either. But of course, that will just be the begining...

yeah i was looking at an oil cooler.
http://compare.ebay.com/like/1405586...Types&var=sbar

im going to be doing suspension, brakes and tires here very soon.
tires first! i am beyond the legal limit of tread on tires.. i believe 4/32 in california is illegal :rofl2:
i trying to get a decent idea of suspension though. im looking around and just dont know what to get. maybe you can give suspension ideas.

BTW - i have code 12, 27, 41.. i cleaned the ground strap terminal on the intake manifold and put it my extra ecu and it cleared up. i havent drove it yet to see if theyll come back yet. but i know that dirty or corroded ecu ground straps can throw codes.

yeah exactly my point, 1j and 2js are more durable. you feel safer just slapping in the engine and calling it a day. even with that engine id still be replacing the head gasket and making sure nothing is warped or cracked.
you can get close to that 400 mark with a rebuilt 7m(stock internals, maybe some aftermarket parts to get alil more hp) just like the 1j.
the HG is the biggest problem that i see with them and if you fix it RIGHT THE FIRST TIME then you wont run into that problem...

should i piggy back the fuel controller?

Test drive=fail!
After clearing the codes I test drove the car to SE if they'll come back.
After getting to OP temp.. Still no codes, but now it stalls out when I down shift. Or slow down.... Hmmmmmm?

Don't ever assume that you're safe swapping in ANY engine blindly. A used engine is a used engine... P E R I O D. You wouldn't believe how many are known to be complete garbage and are still shipped. Video of it running? I've driven cars home after throwing a rod... 10 seconds of video of it running doesn't mean a thing. I've seen engines with phenomenal compression test results which then sat in an open yard for months with no spark plugs in place all the while allowing the rings to seize and the cylinder walls to pit like the surface of the moon. If you buy used plan on rebuilding it.

As for suspension: It doesn't take much to beat old, stock parts. Stiffer springs and decent dampers. Eibach's paired with KYB GR-2 dampers make for a great feel with a very low ticket price (while still streetable thanks to the subtle progressive spring rates). Add to that new bushings where needed (no need for urethane unless you can just get them cheaper) and stiffer sway bars and you may find yourself flat out stunned by the difference.

A fuel controller a type of piggy back. They all require an ECU to pair up with. Is there something else you're referring to?

I don't know much about them I just seen them.
I was looking at the Greddy e-manage.

Suspension is indeed a need. I'm riding stiff..
That's was along the lines I was looking at. Coilovers are too expensive.
I do want to handle corners like a champ tho. Haha

The Greddy E-manage is well, I guess the best term would be "super piggyback"... It's much like the MAFT-Pro, MAFT Gen II and MAP ECU. With all of these the stock ECU remains in place and these devices intercept and modify sensor and ECU signals such as air flow (used to control fueling, there are set backs to controlling fuel this way), ignition timing (can be used to correct for the aforementioned problem), boost control, air flow meter conversion and so on. You can get all of this with a couple separate devices or got with one of the "super piggybacks" and get it all in one shot. On upside to getting a device with everything rolled into one is the ability to record what everything is doing on your laptop where you might otherwise only be able to log one device at a time and have to learn and use a number of applications. On the down side having to learn all of this at once can be confusing for many people and often ends up in abandoned projects. I don't recommend them for the novice unless it's not their primary vehicle or they can otherwise afford some likely downtime.

uhm sooo, is there a more "basic" one?
i love the idea of data recording. its easier to detect problems but seeing how im new to fuel controller, i dont want to confuse my self specially when trying to go to work.

cre, all this talk of f-cons etc, is that really necessary for 400bhp? I was under the impression that using the lexus kvafm/custom air screw, uprated fuel pump, adjustable fpr and 550+ injectors would be a good starting point on a stock GTE motor with the turbo wound up, while keeping the fuel cut feature, and then when funds allowed, add a decent turbo elbow, larger I/C and hard pipes etc just leaving the boost as 11-odd psi before finally uprating the turbo...

Would that not be sufficient to make 400bhp once the turbo was replaced & boost increased? IMO I'd feel happier using a similar setup & keeping the fuel cut for any unforeseen fuel system malfunctions.

I was reading this yesterday... http://www.suprasonic.org/lexusriemer/lexusnotes.html

Seemed to suggest that with that done around 330-340 would be realised with relatively low boost and with potential for more in future (I was getting near on bone stock hardware at the limit of the turbo's capacity, and running into fuel cut at higher revs on occasion, hence I'm on the lookout for the aforementioned injectors & afm as a precaution with the new turbo)

The only potential issue I can see with this, is that it could cause a rich condition on cold starts before the O2 sensor is in the game. However I don't see this as a major problem as cold engines like a richer mixture anyhow, and the O2 would warm up & the system go open loop in about 5 minutes anyway?
(and if it proved TOO rich in certain circumstances I'd think you could devise a switch/resistor setup to disable the CS Injector from the driver's seat & not throw a code?)
Obviously as injector sizes and boost levels increase the f-con etc would eventually become necessary as the closed-loop richness would become too much even with the CSI disabled & you'd get bad starting & flooding, but my point is that for the lexus & 550's etc mod and an upper goal of 400bhp, wouldn't the stock ECU be able to handle it?

MA70-3.0GT, fuel controllers aren't essential but they're a very good idea and I wouldn't try for that level of power increase without a basic SAFC II at the minimum. Just because a 550cc/m injector flows 125% of what a 440cc/m injector flows it doesn't mean they flow the same amount at idle, low load, mid loads, or even high loads. You may waste fuel, lose power or in some odd cases find that the 550s flow LESS at low or mid loads. Depending on if your ECU is setup to still run closed loop you could spend a lot of time running quite poorly (whenever the system is operating in open loop). A fuel controller isn't going to change the fuel cut level, that's determined by factors such as the duty cycle of the injectors (which IS affected by the size of the injectors).

Ochowdero, sure there are simpler piggybacks than the MAFT Pro or MAP ECU, etc. There are a lot of simpler devices with fewer functions and a ton of support... I'm sure you've hear of the SAFC, SAFC II, NEO all by Apex'i. These are just fuel controllers, the list is quite long. The functionality varies per device, some support data logging and some will integrate with an on-board wideband which I also strongly recommend (and it's essential if you're looking to tune on your own). There are independent units for timing control and boost control. The 'super piggybacks' roll all of these into one package which uses one app for data logging but often at the expense of a steep learning curve.

No worries, I was under the impression from that write-up that fuel cut primarily based on the frequency of the signal from the kvafm (partly why the lexus body was used, with the adjustable "bypass" to allow more air to be flowed than the ECU believed), and the ECU then used the O2sensor to correct the resulting lean mixture using the fuel trim.
Then the 550cc injectors were required to "correct" the fuel trim back to the basic level by flowing more fuel for a given pulse width hence leaving more room to correct when boost increases.

All that worried me about the f-con was that modifying further the kvafm signal might affect fuel cut, but you're right it'd still cut at around 80-85% injector duty cycle so no probs.

I was thinking of building a fuel trim monitor using the Vf terminal in the diag. socket, that'd be nice to know what it's doing through the rev range (guess it'd help you pick up a slow switching O2 sensor too)

Anyway, not wishing to hijack the thread sorry ochowdero. so I'll do a bit more research & any questions I'll be sure to bore you with them cre :p

Haha your not hijacking. I like this info. I'm working on building an engine to perform reliable power and durability but for a low.cost. This thread is about that (well the title doesn't say so but I intended it to progress this way)so thank you for you input!

I'm looking for a fuel pump, a good one. Strong!. Any recommendations?
My fuel filter is clogged or something else going on in my fuel system but I can't get my hands on a fuel compression tester. I'm going to do further testing to see why my car stalls when slowing down but I plan on replacing my fuel pump with a stronger one anyway.

Cre- yes. I'm looking at Acouple but I am not fully understanding what I'm looking at. I feel slight shocked cause I worked with them quite often. But I am just lost. Haha, I.think it's Because I thinking about everything and not focusing on a Part at a time.

MA70-3.0GT, fuel cut is based on a couple factors.... I think I remember injector duty cycle, RPM and airflow being the primary factors although I could be wrong. It doesn't matter much for this situation as duty cycle is largely determined by the airflow signal.

The adjustable bypass screw on the KVAFM isn't a fuel cut device (that would be a side effect though). IMO, It's a crude hack to fix poor idle and low load issues when running in open loop. This is precisely where a fuel controller is the better system as otherwise you're still not managing any imbalances in the mid loads and you've only got one single adjustment to try to balance out a pretty big range. The O2 sensor has a very tight range of operation, isn't referenced under a number of circumstances. It's unreliable as a diagnostic device and I'd prefer not to bet the performance and safety of my engine on it. I don't believe in cheaping out on this stuff especially when doing a better and more trustworthy job/setup doesn't cost that much more.

The Vf circuit is a crap circuit for monitoring fuel trends real time, on a regular basis, especially on any non-stock setup. When I setup a data logging system on a TCCS type Toyota I usually add that to one of the monitored auxiliary inputs but it's yet to provide anything useful which wasn't made more obvious by better devices and much more quickly. A slower responding O2 isn't going to help, you'd be better off dampening the comparator circuit for your Vf meter. Dampening the actual O2 signal is going to affect your entire system. I know a couple of people love Vf but half of those who do still agree that unless the car is bone stock it's worthless and it's definitely no substitute for proper diagnostic devices (namely a wideband).


Ochowdero - If you have tuning experience then you should be fine with any of the 'super p/bs'. Just wire them up and if possible skip wiring in optional functions until you're ready to work with those. With some decent experience under your belt the things that are likely to make things difficult diminish in number quickly. Certain finer things such as tip in enrichments, decay rates and the like and then the functions related to converting to a different type of air flow measurement system should be the only things you'll have to do significant homework on... Even the timing control isn't too bad (but you probably aren't even going to want to use that).

Cool, not suggesting anyone "cheap out" on mods that handle the safety of your engine, just feeling out the limitations of the stock system. I was thinking the lex AFM body was mainly for increased flow capability with bigger turbos anyhow,
but the reading I did seemed to suggest that fuel cut would come in at a set KVAFM signal frequency regardless of duty cycle/rpm etc hence the larger unit would be required once fuel flow capability & boost were increased in order to make use of anything above stock max airflow rate.

Just one thing on the O2, I wasn't saying to USE a slower switching O2, was saying that if a Vf monitoring device was used it may help detect if the O2 was slowing down with age/damage. (though thinking on it I guess a wideband O2 sensor & a monitoring system directly signalled by it's output would be much more informative on the things that matter anyway)

It'd still be nice to have a Vf monitor as well though, with a min/max data hold to keep an eye on how much "reserve capacity" is in the ECU's map at a given boost & fuel system spec...



I suppose most of the information written in the link was written back when f-con's were in their infancy & he felt the lex/550 was a better solution than the then-basic programming of said f-con's, so maybe not so relevant now that the companies have had 10-15 more years of development time. I guess it's glaringly obvious I haven't really looked into any of them & really I should as they likely have all the monitoring capability & more that I'd ever need or want. :x:

EDIT-: just thinking about it, using a MAP based fuel controller would eliminate the problem of AFM restriction completely, and in theory the fuel cut feature should still operate based on the injector's duty cycle right?

7mgte can be reliable and make power



http://www.importtuner.com/features/...a/viewall.html

The Lex/550 mod isn't anything that's going to kill your car or leave you running so rich that gasoline is pouring out of your tailpipe. It's a cheap, crude mod and there are better options which cost little more (SAFC IIs are pretty damned cheap these days), provide more control and better power.

Ok, a Lex AFM housing may be used to limit restriction on any setup as you're reducing a bottleneck. The Lex/550 setup works under the gross assumption that a 25% increase in air needs a 25% increase in fuel... The problem here is that neither flows with linearity as duty cycle/volume increases. Most people who are trying to get the most they can out of their 550s are using a fuel controller and the Lex AFM is optional... In this case it provides some very subtle benefit in throttle responsiveness but it's not a lot (it is a little more noticeable with a big turbo but if you're running that large of a turbo these days you should be running a better EMS anyway). The stock intercooler and IC plumbing are just as much, if not more of a restriction than the stock AFM housing.

A peak/hold meter on the Vf signal would be useless. It's a dynamic output which is constantly fluctuating. The problem is the minute you let off the throttle it goes 0v and the minute you go 70% throttle or more it'll go ~4.8v, the rest of the time it bounces all over and you need to average it to get an overall trend. I think it's just a worthless light show unless you have it connected to an oscilloscope or a datalogger and the car is running in a controlled environment (just sitting out of gear with the engine held at certain RPM or on a dyno). With a data logger you have all the other operational stats to compare to the Vf readings but at that point you've already got more info than you need to determine the cause of a problem (because the basic feedback mode of Vf doesn't *really* tell you a thing). Reading it with a sluggish, analog multimeter will give you an averaged reading too (which the TSRM specifies). Vf is the most overrated and misunderstood diagnostic device on the MKIII. It is NOT an A/F indicator, it is NOT an injector or AFM diagnostic and it is NOT something you can use to tune your fuel controller. With a special TCCS service manual from Toyota and an oscilloscope it does tell you a LOT about the ECU's operation at any given point but I feel it's not helpful while it's actually in a car and not connected to a test bed. Ok, I'm done complaining about this particular system... /RANT :p

Wideband controllers run their own diagnostics on the sensor whenever they start up during the warmup cycle. They also usually have an 'emulated' narrowband output which you can connect in place for the signal line for the stock narrowband sensor so you may delete that unit. So you've got a diagnostic system, a sensor which accurately measures your fuel mixture (as opposed to the guesswork done by a narrowband), an output to simplify and supply your ECU with the older signal type it expects and you can change the signal range of the sensor's output and use it to adjust the fueling ( <-- I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS). You can also recalibrate some wideband controllers to account for an aging sensor (Innovate Motorsports' controllers are usually ranked as the best when it comes to this.).

Air flow meter conversion is a separate entity. Some advanced piggy back's have this bundled in but there are units available which do nothing but convert from one type of meter to another. Yes, regardless of what system you convert to fuel cut will remain at relatively the same place unless fueling is changed too. Change the fueling you change the air flow scaling and then you change the fuel cut level. There are piggy backs for changing or eliminating the fuel cut level too and again some of the advanced ECU piggy backs have this bundled in, but it's still controlled separately of the air flow conversion functions.

Nice post (and nice Vf rant lol), it's harder to find any electronic mods piggyback or otherwise for the MA70 in the UK than the US I think, so far found 1 HKS f-con & 1 GCC for same... and then the wiring loom separately for more money than both units together!!!

Ah well, I'm sticking with 11ish psi for now :sadwavey: plenty good info in this thread at least :)

You might look for US based retailers or eBay sellers who will ship to you... I think a number of them will. Also you should check ebay.COM as a lot of international sellers list there as opposed to their country's ebay site.

Fuel controllers are all pretty simple devices. Unless you absolutely MUST keep the stock wiring harness in tact it's not worth it to get a patch harness. It may be convenient but it's not as if we're talking about splicing and tapping 40 some wires.

im going to read more up on fuel controllers and find one that fits me and my application.

i looked at the wideband controller and the one i saw, had a sensor thT GOES IN PLACE OF THE NARROWBAND thats all ready in the car?
these 2 devices, FC and WbC , i seldomly messed with. so im more on the "i need some knowledge on this equipment" side.

im looking at getting this fuel pump.
do i need the install kit that are above the fuel pumps as well?

is this a good fuel pump?
http://www.vr-speed.com/performance/...uel-pumps.html

None of the install kits are for Supra & the pumps all come with a kit for a specific car as well. Not that you couldn't make your own kit (attach the wires and make a bracket) for about $1.50 yourself :)
Most people go for Walbro 255Lp/h & I've not heard any problems with that brand so that's all I'd recommend tbh...

I've never heard of DeatschWerks either, sounds like a Chinese mis-spelling of Deutsch Werks which just means "German Factory" or more literally "German Plants"!!! as if to imply quality. I'd avoid like a dark Oakland alley on a rainy Friday night!

i guess when i posted the link it didnt care that i had my vehicle already set. you gotta pick your vehicle (87 supra) to look at the fuel pumps.
the reason i say this is because i had no idea what you were talking about, deatsch wirks, haha
i looked at those and got tired of trying to find the one for the supra.

if you went back to the page and selected the 87 supra base model then you will know exactly what i was talking about.

the fuel pump is walbro GSS341 255/lph for 86-92 supra. and the kit walbro 400-760 fuel pump kit for 86-92 supra.

i personally like walbro, theyre strong, durable and dont hurt the pocket when it comes to performance pumps. i just want to get an opinion and make sure i dont buy the wrong fuel pump for the car.

Ohhh right, yea the link just took me to a page of $90 pumps called DeatschWerks & when I tried to select supra & find a better one for your car the page hung up so I didn't bother!

You won't go far wrong with the old Walbro, in fact I'm not aware of anyone who hasn't either got stock or Walbro 255

EDIT-: Hahaha, the Walbro are even cheaper than them Kraut Flower ones :D
Yeah they would likely not come with the fitting kit then, but guess you could email them & ask... Personally I'd wire it in & make my own bracket with some steel strip & a slice of 15mm closed cell foam similar to some kneeler pads...

haha yeah there good ones.
id have to pull the old fuel pump and take a look and see what i have to do.
the pump should slide inside the mount, the wires come out the top and wiring in like the original pump? or am i mistaken?

A word of warning about Walbro fuel pump... They're notorious for counterfeiting. The big problem is that the knock offs are TERRIBLE, engine killing terrible. Make sure the company you buy from is reputable and an authorized dealer.

I know a number of people running Bosch 040 (I think it's the 040 model) and MKIV TT fuel pumps too. Perhaps all in equal numbers. The Walbro are too loud for my tastes.

cre, would you say the site in ochowdero's link would be a risk for knock-off walbro's? The 255 was $75 IIRC compared to german plant @ $90odd

They don't look very like Walbro to me!

The knock offs look exactly like the Walbro... all the way down to the name stamped on the body. I don't know this vendor so I couldn't say. I will say that fueling is one thing where it's absolutely not worth saving $40 by going to an unknown shop or ebay seller. This stuff happens all the time, the big deal here was that a lot of them were tested and found to flow half that of what was claimed and have very high failure rates. There are also knock off Bosch and RC injectors which have been popping up here and there but they're not nearly as common as the knock off Walbro pumps. Remember, there's nothing that's going to kill your engine faster than a fuel shortage.... well short of completely draining the oil and hitting the track.

thanks cre and MA70.. you both just saved me. well gave me a huge tip.
i read somewhere recently about the counterfeit Walbros. im not sure this particular sight is one of the vendors that knock off them, because my buddy bought it from there and tested it and flowed dam near to 255/lph
ive also seen this site be recommended to buy from there. but thanks to you guys i am leery to buy from there.

too loud? haha cre, in your opinion, i am curious as to what fuel pump youll get.
im doing HARD research on everything i get for my build because, well its my first "real" build and not a customers vehicle.
i did look at acouple. but i never heard of them. IIRC 'AirTex' and 'Precision'
they both claim upwards of 255, 260, and one of them i think 300/lph. for 90 bucks.

Well strange thing is, last night I looked up a few sites & couldn't find reference to a "Walbro GSS315" model anywhere, even their own site! (GSS341 was a part number though for a 240lph pump IIRC) just out of interest I emailed a Walbro rep (got an address direct from Walbro site) giving him the link to that site & asking if they're a genuine seller. Asked him to contact me back & confirm if they are or not ;)