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#3 |
12psi boost
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Crewe, England
Posts: 356
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I'm wondering, if you replace the fuse as soon as it blows & switch back on straight away does the fuse blow again straight away or does it take another 10mins to blow?
I ask this because if the fuse takes another 10min then the clutch windings or a bad connection could be drawing too much current causing the fuse to heat up & eventually blow, but if it blows straight away then more likely there's something being affected by heat/cold and shorting out. If you suspect high current draw not dead short then you can measure it using a multimeter with it's probes in place of a fuse, and maybe also compare resistance readings between the clutch windings on your car & one that's known good. Also you could perhaps go through the connections & grounds for the AC clutch anyway and just make sure they're all clean & wiring isn't chafed/corroded. If you suspect a dead short then you could also use the multimeter (but don't try to measure amps!), this time by using the AC until it blows the fuse & then checking resistance in the clutch windings & through other areas of wiring, and also check for shorts to ground in the supply wiring. I suppose the clutch windings could be at fault but I have to say I've never experienced it on any vehicle before, I'd have to say it's more likely a wiring/connection problem & therefore easier/cheaper to fix. But a session with the multimeter will tell you more anyway. HTH EDIT-: Here's the TSRM section on testing the clutch windings, there's the specs for the winding resistance values http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ection=AC&P=22 Also on the next few pages are details on removing/installing compressor and dismantling the clutch. Perhaps (and I don't know how much it'd cost) you could take the windings to an electric motor specialist if they're bad & get it rewound for cheaper than buying a clutch? Or if you're like me (broke & just like fixing stuff for the love of it) you could even look into rewinding it yourself... Best of luck ![]() Another EDIT-: Here's the part of the TEWD http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar....aspx?S=D&P=30 showing the wire from the 10a A/C fuse. It's the v/r (violet?/red) wire at the top, it runs from the fuse to a plug where it goes to the pressure switch and the A/C amplifier, from there it becomes a y/g (yellow/green) from the pressure switch & a l/w (blue/white) from the amplifier, which plug together & send a y/g (yellow/green to the relay & then an l (blue) from relay to clutch. If the clutch Ohms out OK then these are the connections/wires to check next...
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'89 MA70 Supra GT aero 3.0turbo JDM, Rebuilt motor, K&N intake, 3" stainless turbo-back. New turbo and braided line kit... '89 Honda NC27 400, NC23 cams, open pipe, PC36a shock & possibly Showa USD forks... '83 Yamaha 29R XJ750E-II, number 69 off the line, only runner in the country? Original except Koni shocks '95 Honda PC26 CB500R, Winter hack, hateful, trying to sell it I'm not paranoid, they really ARE after me!!! ![]() Last edited by MA70-3.0GT; 05-19-2013 at 01:17 PM. |
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