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#1 |
Super Moderator
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Billings, Montana
Posts: 1,034
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Your 3 trouble codes all seem to be pointing to the AFM or its wiring. You can check the wiring by measuring the resistance (or continuity) of each wire from the AFM connector to the ECU connector. If you have little to none resistance then the wiring is most likely okay. Also you should test your AFM as suggested earlier, or at least swap out with a known good one if that's an option.
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1989 7MGTE R154 Targa Top White Package w/Blue Interior Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels |
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#2 |
Bone Stock w Upgrades ;-)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Tampa Bay
Posts: 211
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Make sure its not a problem of going from closed loop (cold) to open loop (warm). That is when the oxygen sensor provides signals to the ECU. The test procedure is outlined in a good repair manual or online at sygnus x1. You will need a ohm meter. Check the oxygen sensor for a open heater circuit. You can also check the throttle position sensor. Sometimes they stick and don't come back to idle even though the throttle plate has. You will need a ohmmeter an a set of feeler gauges and a offset (s shaped) Phillips screwdriver. Work with a paper towel under the TPS to catch a screw if dropped.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/ Last edited by Bru; 11-05-2014 at 12:37 AM. |
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